Heavy duty lead and powder biuld-up??

my-handyman

August 26, 2011 15:17

I have a .22LR muzzle brake that has years of shooting without any attempt to clean off the powder and lead buildup (very thick). I have used and let stand over night, 6 days two times each (Just wetting it down). Hoppe's no9, Hoppe's copper solvent and Gunzilla. None of these have done much to remove the buildup. Is there any thing better to use? I have thought of putting/submerging the brake in one of these solvents over night, but I'm worried that it could hurt the finish/blueing. Any help or ideals???
Thanks Very Much !!!

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  11b6r

  August 26, 2011 15:54

  Find a product made by Kano Labs called KROIL. It is the ultimate penetrating oil. Will not hurt finish. Dunk the brake overnight. Use a toothbrush. It will get under COPPER fouling in a rifle bore, it WILL get under crud on a brake.

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  Riomouse911

  August 26, 2011 16:19

  x2 on Kroil. If that and elbow grease doesn't work I don't know what will.

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  my-handyman

  August 26, 2011 17:06

  Thanks Guys!! I have some KROIL on my work bench down stairs, just never thought of using it. I'll let you know how it works. Have a Good Weekend!

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  perry shooter

  August 26, 2011 17:21

  My vote also for KROIL but also is this happen to be a High Standard Muzzle Brake. if so they make a tool from High Standard to clean the break . picture on request.
  edit The tool for the High Standard will not work on your Ruger. I was amazed when I started shooting years ago how much crud would build up an a 22 LR brake. This stuff was like it was welded to the inside. The other problem is the fact it will start to enlarge Group Size as the brake fills up. Before I found the proper H.S. tool I took a piece of hard Bronze 1/4 inch rod and filed a screw driver /chisel type point on one end to pry the stuff out. This will not hurt bluing but is hard enough to move the crud.

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  rufe-snow

  August 26, 2011 18:58

  If the brake is removeable separate it from the barrel and clamp it in a vise with protective non marring jaws. Chuck a stainless steel borebrush of the correct diameter in a electric drill and have at it. As long as the brake is made out of steel and not aluminum your not going to hurt it.
  
  If the brake isn't removeable use a machinist scriber to remove pieces of lead that soldered themselves to the interior of the brake.
  
  I had a Ruger Mark II with a aftermarket clamp-on brake years ago. It would get so fouled up with lead residue, I had to use the above methods to clean it. Go so fed up got rid of it. It seems that the cheap milk carton bulk ammo is the worst offender as far as lead fouling is concerned.

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  rong

  August 28, 2011 02:44

  I had this issue on
  a S&W 41.
  
  It was so bad I thought the
  brake was a decoration.
  It was filled solid on the walls,
  no gas could escape except thru the muzzle.
  
  I tried every solvent I could find and
  finaaly ended up out of frustration picked
  up a small screw driver.I chipped away
  at what looked like it should be an
  opening and finally after tedious work
  cleaned it all out.
  
  My friend at the club couldn't belive the
  before and after conditions. He as well
  thought the brake was just for looks.
  Truly amazing

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