+p ammo in older S&Ws
I know S&W says to shoot +p ammo only in guns with model numbers (post 1957) and I know it is not wise to shoot +p in guns with cylinders that are not double heat treated (about 1920). I figure S&W said that model number thing as an easy way to set an arbitrary date for the use of +p. But for earlier guns that have double heat treated cylinders is +p ammo really a problem? Was there really an big improvement in cylinder steel in 1957?
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I wouldn't push your luck with a older S & W with a unknown round count. I personally screwed up a cherry 1950's era Model 37 by shooting it with my handloads, which I at the time didn't think were to hot. It went out of time, and started spitting lead from the side of the forcing cone.
Doubtful that your Smith will self destruct by shooting Plus P's. More likely timing and lockup will be seriously degraded.0 -
For what little you gain with the +P, I would say it is not worth it. But then again, it is your gun, your hand, and your face.
If you want a 357 Magnum, buy one, and do not look for a 38 to be one.
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It would help a whole lot if you told us just what model you want to use +P in [:0]
Some older "K" frames and most "N" frames should take them,but with a "J" or"I" frame don't use them [;)]0 -
My gun is a 6" M&P made 1928, with a perfect action. 0 -
Keep it perfect and stick to regular .38s. IMHO 0 -
quote:Originally posted by capgun
My gun is a 6" M&P made 1928, with a perfect action.
If you're talking a 1960s-70s gun, then I'd say go for it.
But with a pre-war gun like that. . .why? You have nothing to gain, and at worst you might ruin the gun.
Just stick to ordinary .38s.
If its a true "life and death emergency" and you need to run one cylinder full of .38+P rounds, I doubt the gun will blow up, but if that is the case, then really, the gun being ruined is the least of your worries.0 -
S&W started using modern ordnance steel (just as today) in their cylinders within a few months of the time they started to roll stamp 'Made In U.S.A.' on the lower right frame.
The odds of receiving an 'overlap' gun (U.S.A. stamp and older steel formula) is so remote, that I, for one, have been useing the stamping as a baseline for the determination between the older cylinder steel, and the modern steel.
FWIW..I have a .44 Rem. Magnum S&W that doesn't have a model number stamped anywhere on the gun (pre-model 29). Joe0
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