SA 1911-A1 Defender .45 acp jams/won't eject
I recently inherited the above referenced pistol. I cleaned it, and took it to the range to get acquainted with it. I was shooting factory UMC 230 grain rounds. Several times, the weapon jammed when the empty brass did not eject completely. I tried 3 or 4 different magazines (factory SA and Randall aftermarket) but it did not change the problem.
When I got home and was cleaning it, I noticed the recoil spring was bent. I am not sure if this was bent the first time I cleaned it-but I did not notice it at that time. Or maybe it bent on this trip to the range. Is this likely to be the cause of my jamming/ejection issue? See the pix below:
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If so, can anyone recomment a reliable source for a replacement spring?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Mike
When I got home and was cleaning it, I noticed the recoil spring was bent. I am not sure if this was bent the first time I cleaned it-but I did not notice it at that time. Or maybe it bent on this trip to the range. Is this likely to be the cause of my jamming/ejection issue? See the pix below:
[img][/img]
If so, can anyone recomment a reliable source for a replacement spring?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Mike
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Try different ammo before changing out the recoil spring. Some of the cheap yellow box remington stuff I've fired in the past seemed kind of wimpy. From your description that might be the problem.
EDIT #1, Wolff Gunsprings is the best known provider of after market springs for firearms. You can find their on-line catalog by GOOGLEing.0 -
a Extractor that does not have enough tension can drop the case before it hits the ejector and this will cause trouble like yours . Remove slide from frame then remove barrel. now with slide turned upside down slide a loaded round up the breach face of the slide under the extractor hook . with this done turn slide right side up if rounds falls out then increase tension on extractor. "PRAISE THE HARD-BALL GUN" 0 -
Perry Shooter:
I tried your suggestion, and the extractor will hold the round snugly. It does not fall out.
Rufe:
I will also try some other brand of ammo when I go to the range next. Thanks for the tip.
Anything else I could check?0 -
The extractor claw may be too long...getting too deep into the extractor groove...to release the case when it smacks the ejector.
Look at the rear faces of the rims for signs of the backside of the claw digging in. If they're there, what is probably happening is that the rim gets trapped between the ejector nose and the claw as the case tries to twist out of the extractor. More common with extended ejectors, but it can also happen with standard-length ejectors.0 -
and if I do see those marks....how do you remedy it? 0 -
Use a medium India stone and reduce the length of the claw a little...and I mean very little. There usually isn't more than about .003 inch difference between binding and releasing properly.
Measure with a caliper the thickness of the extractor from the back to the bottom of the tensioning wall...the area behind the claw that puts tension on the case rim.
Then, measure again from the tip of the claw and subtract. .035-.036 inch is about right. .032 is the minimum.
It's best to lay the stone on the table and drag the claw across it to prevent getting it out of square. When you get the length right, use the stone to break the sharp corners at the top and botto,...with a slightly larger radius on the bottom corner.0 -
Had to jump off to let the dogs run.
If you find that the claw is within spec, the next thing to check is the distance from the breechface to the rear face of the claw. If it's less than .070 inch, that'll put the rim in a bind, too. I like to see about 5/64ths there...or roughly .080 inch...but as long as it's not below .070 it should be okay. Unfortunately, about the only way to measure it is with gauge pins. Drill rod will also work in a pinch...if you can find the right sizes.
If the distance is too short..about all you can do is replace the extractor.0 -
Rufe gave you good advice.
Try some different ammo first. Then a lighter recoil spring if you still have the same problem.
A recoil calibration pac from them is $32, single ones $8.
www.gunsprings.com0 -
dcs shooters seems very right. Your recoil spring may be too strong (heavy) for the round thereby causing the slide to short stroke and not allow adequate room for ejection. It's probably why the spring is bent. If the slide cycles with out binding even thought the spring is bent when set, it doesn't matter that the spring is curvy. What I recommend is to put a 16-18lbs ISMI chrome-silicon recoil spring in it's place and replace it when bad (may take up to 7000 rounds or so in a Government Model). It's not your mags, all about timing and space to function correctly. The extractor most likely is not the issue if it chambers and hold correctly. If it's a compact or officer's model 1911 you may have to sacrifice shooting comfort for a 16lbs spring in order to cycle correctly with limited slide travel. 0 -
The recoil spring has nothing to do with timing. Its primary function is feeding the next round and returning the gun to battery.
The only part of a 1911 pistol that's timed is the barrel...engaging and disengaging into and out of the slide. The link determines unlock/drop timing. The breechface to barrel hood contact determine the engagement timing.
Confusing "Time" and "Timing" is pretty common. Timing is mechanically fixed, and only changes with wear or parts failure. Time is a function of speed and distance.
While a too-strong spring can absolutely cause short cycle...in a 5-inch gun...that would require about a 24 pound rating...and that's unlikely in this case. The new owner would have remarked that the slide was difficult to manipulate...and because the deformed spring suggests that it's badly worn.
A change ammo may cure the problem if the rims are out of spec on the current batch...to large...but the pistol is very forgiving of fairly large variations as long as it's within spec.0
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