AR15 complete upper HUNG UP
Help needed..Factory new complete M4 upper with charge handle,complete bolt carrier and all parts,less lower rec..This was pinned onto a proven lower. The action cycled perfectly and trigger/safety function correct. Inserted loaded mag,and operated charging handle..first round loaded ,but would not eject..dropped magazine and finally got chambered round out...cycled action several times[empty], and checked trigger/safety function,no problem.Hesitant to chamber another live round, I singly inserted a spent cartridge into chamber and dropped bolt..when I tried to eject by pulling charge handle, bolt moved rear half inch and froze...will not go forward nor rear..removed buttstock,buffer and spring and unpinned lower receiver..now I have upper that is still frozen..bolt will not move...what now???
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Drop a cleaning rod down the barrel and knock the case out of the chamber.
Did you learn not to put a fired case back in the chamber? If not, try the same thing again.
Did you clean the new chamber and barrel and lube the bolt before attempting to load the ammo? If not, do that now.
Was the ammo you tried factory or name brand reman? If not, get some and try that.
I'm not trying to be funny or sarcastic but these are things that are standard for prepping new rifles.0 -
Couple of issues here.
First, we never chamber a fired case, because it expanded when it was fired, & must be resized. Even if there had been no problem with your rifle, we would not have attempted to chamber it as we would have expected it to stick.
To remove a stuck case, your best recourse is to pound a .20" wooden dowel from the muzzle end. You may be able to use a 1-piece steel cleaning rod, but be gentle.
As for the original problem, we need to know what kind of ammo you were using. And, if you inspected the chamber before you fired the rifle.
Neal0 -
AR15s have issues with bolt to barrel lug alignment mainly do to the obvious issue the barrels go to the right, left, or upward right or left off center from the upper receiver because the barrel nut torsion plays on the mounting of the barrel. It could be that the bolt is stuck on the roughly cut lugs at an angle when the bolt wants to be straight. Also this may directly play on reliability. Seems worse with chrome-lined barrels with sharp chamber mouth corners. How far does the barrel go off center? If tapping a greased cleaning rod doesn't do it you may have to loosen the barrel nut to free the bolt. This is the main reason I like used parts when I build. When the barrel cants and the bolt wants to go straight forward and has a round snapped in place within the chamber, the round can add leverage from the chamber on the bolt that is locked on the lugs. This barrel nut should be torqued from 35-45 FT Lbs. When someone over torques this nut it can malform the upper receiver front mounting surface so guess what the barrel does? Lots of people blame non-chrome-lined bores for reliability issues when it may not even be the fault of the bore but how bad the barrel cants. It's a simple gun and problems are just that simple. Solutions may not be so simple. 0 -
This upper reciever you are asking about your problems of...does it by chance happen to say Hesse, Blackthorn, or Vulcan on it, or did it come from them? You have been given good advice already. Always remember, a firearm does not come from the factory ready to shoot. It must be unpackaged, and prepped before it can be fired. Make sure you thouroughly clean and lube that upper. If that upper came from one of the above names, you have been royally screwed...sorry, just the way it is. You also might consider checking to see if your gas block is properly aligned with the gas port in your barrel.
Best0 -
BANG the butt straight down on the ground firmly while pulling on the charging handle.
CP0 -
Rifle kit is from Model 1 Sales. 16" non chrome bbl..A2 upper factory assembled and headspaced.. I brushed bore and lightly oiled and wiped receiver..dropped in the included bolt/carrier and charge handle. I just tried 3/16 brass rod down the barrel and tapped with small hammer [only hard as i dared] with NO movement of bolt. Rifle was never fired 0 -
Take a standard 22 cleaning rod and start it in the muzzle. Holding the rifle butt down, throw the cleaning rod down the barrel like a spear. The momentum of the cleaning rod will knock the case loose after a few tries. You can put some pressure on the charging handle at the same time if you loop a piece of cord on it to hook your toe on or have some assistance. Resist the urge to put extreme pull on the handle since it is not all that stout. 0 -
if you have a 223 and are trying to chamber a 5.56 round it may be the reason for the hang up...my dpms is a 223 and will not chamber a 5.56 it does the same thing you are haveing trouble with..the chamber specs on the dmps are tight...all my other ARs in 223 will chamber the 5.56 0 -
quote:Originally posted by hoyt shooter 16
if you have a 223 and are trying to chamber a 5.56 round it may be the reason for the hang up...my dpms is a 223 and will not chamber a 5.56 it does the same thing you are haveing trouble with..the chamber specs on the dmps are tight...all my other ARs in 223 will chamber the 5.56
Unless you have a match chamber on your DPMS 223, the only thing that would be different than a 5.56x45 NATO chamber is the throat. If you are stuffing the 69 and 75 grain match ammo in it, then yes, the bullets are going to hang up in the lands.
Best0 -
use tha cleaning rod to knock the case and bolt out of the rifle.
send the upper back to model 1 sales.0
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