1911 ammo
After much study, I just bought a NIB Armscor Ni. 1911, on the auction side. As stated in an earlier post I'm a newby to 1911's. Guestion---For reliability in feeding, and going bang every time, what type of ammo is recommended? I prefer to use brass cases so I can re-load after I accumulate a few empties. Never having disasembled a 1911, any tips, or books to acquire. How often should it be cleaned? Any advise is appreciated. THX HAWKSHAW
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i would shoot standard hardball 230 gr. try something else after it is broken in. field stripping is not a problem. you should find info on line. i suggest the book THE COLT.45 AUTOMATIC by JERRY KUHNHAUSEN.
as to cleaning, that is up to the individual0 -
Buy the "white Box" ammo from Winchester or Federal. The gun will most likely feed a cast 200 SWC too, you will just have to try it and find out what it likes.
Do a search on the forum for 1911 disassembly tips there are several threads discussing it. Make sure you clean it and re-lube it before firing. Carb cleaner works great for de-gunking guns.0 -
230 Grain Ball will feed when some other types will not . IMHO any machine with moving parts when new should be well oiled before the first shot and cleaned more then after it is shot and broken in . Newly machined metal will have small burrs and machining grooves . You want to keep any small chips from wearing and gualding the other parts. "OIL IS YOUR FRIEND" I would clean every 50 -100 rounds for first 500 rounds. As to taking the pistol down to clean one key point to the 1911 design is you don't need any tools . The best way to take down is to go on one or more of the many 1911 websites and look at directions on how the parts react with each other and how to take pistol down. if that fails double click on my user name and send me an email I can talk you through it. 0 -
For now, stick with 230 gr ball as others have said.
Once you start reloading, you can play with 100 lot boxes of cast lead and find a cheap one that feeds well in your gun (mine won't reliably feed 200 gr SWC, but does fine with the Lee 230 gr Lead Round nose.)0 -
I agree that the 230 round nose FMJ is a great break-in load for the pistol, it's what it was designed around. For disassembly it's hard to beat the NRA book FIREARMS ASSEMBLY, Pistols and Revolvers. If you are an NRA member it can be ordered thru member services. Once you have settled in with the pistol you can make decisions about any work you want to have done - trigger job, beaver-tail grip safety, throat job, etc (this can become addicting)- to allow it to be reliable with some of the high performance loads available. Nice thing about the .45 is that the slug starts out about the size many smaller bullets end up AFTER they expand. 0 -
I have always had good luck with the Lyman 452374 about 230 gr. I used Bullseye for years but use W231 now because I got lots of it cheap. Win. white box was good ammo for the price. 0 -
Basic instructions HERE: http://www.surplusrifle.com/pistol1911/index.asp 0 -
The 1911 is called the "Hard Baller" for the simple reason it was never fundamentally intended to shoot anything other than ball ammo. It wasn't initially designed to be .45 caliber in the fundamental design. It was made a .45 for military reasons. The main reason it seems hard round nosed ball ammo works better than non-round nosed hollow points is because the round nose is needed for upward feed due to the long feed cycle dynamics of the 2 part ramp. Ball ammo's ballistic coefficient (nose) favors the long cycle's upward feed ramp. Sharp tipped hollow points may need longer feed angles for contact more towards the bottom of the bullet because the noses being sharp hang on the feed ramp. 1911s typically have short feed ramps on the barrel of a .45 because the barrel is thinner & larger than a smaller caliber .38 or 9MM. The thinness could be the reason for the "Hard Baller" due to the lack of supportive material for longer ramp. Stick to FMJ round nosed hard ball, it was made for it. You may want to get the round nosed with the safety ball inside because .45 may ricochet due to it's inherited low velocities especially in short barrel lengths that waste valued powder pressure. Over the years .45 velocities have become more favorable than the old 780-850 FPS seemingly to the competition with the 9MM's higher velocities, ballistic coefficient, and effective lethal range. 45 ballistic coefficients seem similar to the 9MM more now than ever. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by Hawkshaw
After much study, I just bought a NIB Armscor Ni. 1911, on the auction side. As stated in an earlier post I'm a newby to 1911's. Guestion---For reliability in feeding, and going bang every time, what type of ammo is recommended? I prefer to use brass cases so I can re-load after I accumulate a few empties. Never having disasembled a 1911, any tips, or books to acquire. How often should it be cleaned? Any advise is appreciated. THX HAWKSHAW
-Best (and only) ammo for max reliability is the military standard, 230 grain hardball.
-Taking down a 1911 isn't that different than any other modern semi-auto pistol. The only thing is that unlike most modern guns to get at the guts you'll need to open up the barrel bushing, and with some 1911 guns (usually match ones) the bushing can be really tight and need a wrench to get off. Note that this will probably NOT be the case with your Norinco.
If you want a step by step walkthrough, you can undoubtedly find both videos and web pages on line that will show you how to do this.
-How often to clean. . .well, that depends. If you're trusting your life to this gun and want truly maximum possible reliability you could clean it after ever time you shoot it. If its more of a range/casual gun, cleaning every couple hundred rounds should be fine.0 -
The 1911 and the 230 grain Full Metal Jacket bullet (hardball)were developed together. Therefore, the 230 grain FMJ bullet should be used for absolute reliability of feeding and functioning. For reduced recoil, the 185 - 200 grain wadcutter bullet will USUALLY feed OK.
Any other bullet form will have to be tested for reliable feeding.
CAUTION: when disassembling, do not have the muzzle pointed at your face when releasing the recoil spring. If our thumb slips off the recoil spring cap you will get the full force of the spring right in your face.0
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