RUGER M 77 MK 2, TRIGGER ?
I just picked up a m77 Mk2 in .223 h.b., mat s.s. finish lam. stock w/wide forend. the trigger is different than the other m 77 mk2's I've worked on. It looks stock but has 3 adj. screws, any tips on 'tricking' one out. I'm used to Rem's & the older Mk2's. curently the trigger breaks at 3.5 lbs. and is long and 'scratchy'.
0
-
Hi MW,
That is Ruger's "Varmint/Target" rifle configuration you have there. It is "supposed to be" a two stage trigger. I have not played with one of those before, but I do know they have some after market triggers available for them.
Perhaps you might be able to find instructions, or a manual on Ruger's web site.
After looking at the diagram on Numerichs' website, one screw is for weight of pull, and the other two are for sear engagement, and over travel. I would think the weight of pull is for the second stage.
Best0 -
THANKS T, I'll do some 'surfing'
edit: after following the instructions the trigger cleaned up some but certainly not up to 'snuff'. I e-mailed Ruger and got an answer that "we do not make adjustable trigger m-77's"[:0]. the let-off is long (I like 'breaking glass' let-off), lots of creep. No way to limit sear engagement that I can see, the trigger 'moves' about 1/4" after the first stage take-up.
EDIT 2, here's some pix
the bottom screw is the sear engagement screw, it does nothing to limit the primary trigger/sear interface (almost 1/16", that's were the 'long scratchy pull' is coming from)with the mechanical advantage this translates to about 1/4" of trigger travel after primary take-up.
the middle screw is over travel, works as designed
the top screw is trigger return spring tension, I've removed the screw and spring completely and still have a 3 lb. pull[xx(]
0 -
I have the 77V in 223, 25.06, 6.5 Creedmoor and 308, they're great guns and under rated. I'm pretty sensitive on target gun triggers and have adjusted mine, I think they are every bit as good as the 700 & better than the Savage.
I suppose calling the trigger a two stage is accurate, trigger return pressure for the "1st stage" is controlled by the large vertical spring behind the trigger and I usually leave this as is.
This guy gives the basics & locations of the adjustment screws:
http://www.varminthunters.com/tech/rugervt.html
I usually leave the overtravel backed out a bit, adjust it last. The trick is to set the sear engagement and the trigger spring pressure in balance - lighter trigger spring pressure requires a greater sear engagement, so it's just a matter of cut & try. A pretty straightforward approach is to simply turn in the sear screw and leave the trigger spring alone, that will cure the "long & scratchy" pull. But adjusting the trigger spring can get you a much lighter pull, I found it worth the effort.
When you are adjusting the 77V trigger if the sear screw is turned in too much the gun will revert to a very heavy single stage. Just back out a bit for the 2nd stage sear to re-engage and continue adjusting.
It's easy to adjust, mine are all set just under 1 lb with the safety working fine and the engagement holding even when the action is worked hard.
Edit: I'm a bit stumped.[V] The 1st stage should have no grit, no scratch at all. The only thing happening at that point is the large vertical spring pressing down the back of the trigger - the trigger is interacting with nothing else, just pivoting on its pin & taking resistance from the spring behind it. It should have the same resistance with the bolt removed as with the action cocked. The only suggestion I can make is to back out the sear engagement screw until the head of the Allen screw is well above the housing, then cock the action, turn in the sear engagement screw and wait for the "click" as the sear releases.
I removed the barreled action from one of mine. The bottom screw on yours appears about the correct depth and other than your sear spring being out it looks normal.
If you'd like to experiment a bit you can easily remove the trigger itself by drifting out that pivot pin - you already have the sear return spring out so it should be very easy. Re-insert the pin & sear, cock the action and you should have a clear view of how the sear works. You can "pull the trigger" by pressing on the sear directly from the rear.
May be that a visit to the Ruger forum "Rifles and Carbines" might resolve things. I think all the parts are there and fine we're just missing something in translation.0 -
i have two and i put timney in each of them with a pull of 1-1/2# 0 -
quote:Originally posted by MIKE WISKEY
THANKS T, I'll do some 'surfing'
edit: after following the instructions the trigger cleaned up some but certainly not up to 'snuff'. I e-mailed Ruger and got an answer that "we do not make adjustable trigger m-77's"[:0]. the let-off is long (I like 'breaking glass' let-off), lots of creep. No way to limit sear engagement that I can see, the trigger 'moves' about 1/4" after the first stage take-up.
The older 77Vs and newer ones (rough matte finish instead of grey & polished) carry the same trigger, I have versions of each.
The 77V does have sear angagement adjustment and you should be able to get that "breaking glass" pull. With the bolt removed, if you adjust the sear you can actually see the sear engagement move if you look at the rear tang from the top.
Possible you turned the sear adjustment screw in too much? If so, you'll get that very heavy pull.0
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
5 comments