Update on Erma 68a baby luger and new ?
Thanks for all the previous replies. The topic got locked before I got back to it,but you gave me good info.
The pistol was clean and looked good so I took it to the range. It shoots really well, but the recoil pops the mag out just a little. I think the problem is the magazine catch has worn down. It looks like a flat trapezoid when I think it should be a rounded curve. (if that makes sense)
So here's the question, does anybody know if there is any combatability between this .380 model and the .22 cal model 69?
I find more parts for the .22 than I do for mine.
Thanks,
Walter
The pistol was clean and looked good so I took it to the range. It shoots really well, but the recoil pops the mag out just a little. I think the problem is the magazine catch has worn down. It looks like a flat trapezoid when I think it should be a rounded curve. (if that makes sense)
So here's the question, does anybody know if there is any combatability between this .380 model and the .22 cal model 69?
I find more parts for the .22 than I do for mine.
Thanks,
Walter
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Glad to hear your 68a shoots well for you. Like its looks, there's nothing quite like the Luger "feel", i.e. weight, balance, and grip. I think the KGP-68a "Baby Luger" may become more collectible and sought after in the future.
It appears to me that Erma KGP-69 (.22LR) parts and KGP-68a (.380 or .32) parts are not interchangeable. In fact, it looks to me like the .22 toggle linkage parts are actually bigger than their center-fire equivalents.
While we're on the subject, this topic inspired me to pull out my .380 and .32 68a's. Interestingly, the .32's barrel is about 3.5" long compared to the 4" .380 barrel.
One more thing: when you field strip the gun, be careful that the extractor does not come out of its slot in the breach block (the front piece of the three-piece toggle assembly). The extractor assembly consists of the extractor, a spring, and a plunger which pushes horizontally on the extractor from the rear to force it forward so that its underside catches and "hooks" a small groove in the breach block; this is how it pivots and is retained, instead of a cross-pin/vertical spring arrangement. The extractor is small, but the spring and plunger are tiny. Bob's Gun Parts lists the extractor as Sold Out, so finding a replacement is a challenge.
I noticed that there is a little red paint on one side of one of my extractors which would function as a loaded-chamber indicator, since it would be visible only when the extractor is elevated slightly by hooking (engaging) the rim of a cartridge casing, even though maybe only a millimeter or so is visible then. I don't know if this was a factory standard or not; if so, it must wear off with use.
As I said, the plunger and spring are just slightly bigger than watch parts. My .380 has a plunger with a rounded end that engages a tiny "dimple" in the extractor, whereas my .32 plunger has a chisel point end that presses on the extractor. The .380 spring is heavier, too, compared to the finer .32 extractor spring. So, either the factory did not use identical parts or something was replaced later with different parts. Both versions seem to work OK though. But if I ever need to replace these parts I'll probably have to put my ol' machinist skills to use.
Finally, yes, the lower frame (grip/magazine/trigger group) is die cast and has a painted finish which apparently doesn't wear well since the finish is worn off the front and back straps of both my guns, exposing the grey metal. So researching a good DIY epoxy gun finish, or maybe an anodized finish, is on my to-do projects list.
Any advice on blue/black finishes for die cast gun parts would be appreciated.
Happy shooting.0 -
Zinc can't be anodized. Painting is your only option for a dark finish. 0 -
...been away, but now I'm back. ~
The .22LR Erma (KGP-69) is actually scaled larger than the .32/.380 (KGP-68a) "baby Luger" model -- more like a full-sized P'08 -- so none of the major parts are interchangeable. I bought front and rear toggle links awhile ago that the seller mistakenly described as KGP-68 parts, when in fact they were the larger KGP-69 parts, so I learned this first-hand. These particular parts are all steel in the center-fire guns, but die-cast in the .22 model.
I see that Brownell's sells a bake-on durable enamel for refinishing but I haven't tried it yet on the die-cast grip frame; applying it properly is involved. I'd guess that it would work on zinc/pot metal, though, and be far superior to off-the-shelf stuff like Krylon etc.
I prefer the checkered real walnut grips on these guns, too, compared to the plastic grips.
Hope your piece is still holding up well for you!0 -
Thanks,
Yeah, she shoots well, I just have to find a mag release button that will hold the mag in. Mine is fine till you shoot, then it pops out just a hair. If you use a support hand to hold the mag firm, then there is no problem.
Walt0
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