Remove finish on stocks and grips

308win

May 03, 2011 05:41

Ideas on removing finish from stocks and grips especially around the checkering. I have a blast cabinet with walnut media and I could load it with soda. Also would you use the liquid finish remover and what kind? I know the hardest would be the checkering area. Well thanks for any ideas.

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  victorj19

  May 03, 2011 07:49

  Interesting concept. Why not try the soda blasting on some old beater stock, table/chair leg and see what happens. I would think higher pressure to start and lower in and around the checkering. Might be useful after using stipper in & around the checkering.
  
  I'm going to keep watching this one to see if there's anyone who's tried the blasing before.

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  nmyers

  May 03, 2011 11:08

  I have found Formby's Furniture Refinisher works well for removal of most finishes; I use #0000 steel wool on solid surfaces & a brush on checkering.
  
  For tough proprietary finishes, their Paint & Poly Remover may be necessary.
  
  Neal

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  1KYDSTR

  May 03, 2011 11:32

  I've used that and a lot of other Forby's stains and such and had really nice results. Not sure Soda blasting would be my first route...the aforementioned lite bristle brush in the checkering should suffice, I believe.

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  wpage

  May 03, 2011 13:48

  Paint remover. Remove checker area first with toothbrush. The rest with steel wool. Wash and lightly sand to dry...
  
  Have fun and dont leave remover on too long!

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  CapnMidnight

  May 03, 2011 15:01

  Woody is right on the money, stripper or paint remover and do the checkering first with a tooth brush.
  W.D.

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  JIM STARK

  May 04, 2011 04:47

  Most any type of blast meia will remove wood...Not recommended... Liquid stripper and steel wool w/ non mettallic brush for checkered areas... If badly oil soaked...use whiting or oven cleaner....
  JIM...............

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  bartman45

  May 04, 2011 06:03

  Stripped an M1 carbine stock that had been coated with a TruOil type product and I used an orange citrus type stripper. Worked great and did not affect the original oil finish. Some ocats of boiled linseed oil and the 1944 look was back.

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  bartman45

  May 06, 2011 10:01

  quote:Originally posted by Barzillia
  For oil and varnish finishes, use the cheapest oven cleaner you can buy that is not odor free, and a toothbrush.
  
  Flush with hot water and dry.
  
  
  CMP website states not to use oven cleaner or water. The oven cleaner (sodium hydroxide) attacks the natural wood glue (hemicellulose) holding the fibers togather. Left on long enough, the wood fibers themselves will be attacked..........

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