Finiky 22 hornet
I need help getting a 77/22 hornet to group.
would shimming, or in some way takeing-up the slack in the two piece bolt help? and is there a kit to do that with?
Edit: Actually I have both models also, my all wheather 24" has shot 3/4" @100yds. it's the sil's 20" that is a pain. I saw him shoot 2 in the same hole, and #3 was 1.25" away, I can't get two holes whithin 3/4" of each other.
would shimming, or in some way takeing-up the slack in the two piece bolt help? and is there a kit to do that with?
Edit: Actually I have both models also, my all wheather 24" has shot 3/4" @100yds. it's the sil's 20" that is a pain. I saw him shoot 2 in the same hole, and #3 was 1.25" away, I can't get two holes whithin 3/4" of each other.
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Google 77/22 Hornet and you'll find some information on options for improving the bolt and trigger. Do you have the 20 inch barrel walnut stocked version or the 24 inch laminated stock? I've had both and finally gave up on the shorter barrel version. Didn't do any modifications to the bolt, stock, or trigger but tried a wide variety of hand loads and could never get better than two MOA, usually worse. However the K77/22-VHZ is much better and can do MOA or less with the right loads. 0 -
IIRC Brownells has the bolt shim kit. I tweaked and tuned mine befor they had shim kits and shimming the bolt made a major difference. Out of the box it shot 1 3/4-2 MOA. After shimming and finding the right forend pressure it shoots just under 3/4 MOA.
From what I have experienced with other rifles shimming may or may not help, but for no more than it costs it's worth a try.
Couldn't find them at Brownells, but here's a link to some info.
http://www.centerfirecentral.com/ruger22h.html
The way I made mine was to clamp stainless steel shim stock between two peices of 1/2" steel that had been surfaced and then drill the proper size hole (don't recall correct size) through the steel and shim stock together. I then trimmed the OD a bit oversize, mounted on a mandrel and spun them against the belt sander to get the approximate OD. As mentioned at the link, you can hone it on a wet stone if a bit to thick.0 -
There are several threads related to this in the ATE column. The "search" function is your friend.
I have done several of those, bothe the Varmint model, and the regular model. Provided the barrel is decent from the factory, they can be made to consistantly shoot better than 3/4"(truly nothing to write home about) at 100 yards, of course, excluding the wind factor.
There are several things that have to be done, including pillar bedding the action, free floating the barrel, a GOOD trigger job(not one done by BUBBA), and of course you have heard about shimming the bolt.
All the rifles I have done favor the 40 grain Hornady V-max, or the 40 grain Nosler Ballistic tip. In order to load these, the brass has to be trimmed back, so the case mouth does not go past the ogive, and bearing surface.
If you need any more insight, give me a shout.
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moretoys,
I responded in Competition Shooting and Reloading.
Take it to a gunsmith or send it to Accuracy Systems or CT Precision.
There is more to this than just the bolt.
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Thank you gentleman for the information, some confuseing.How do you pillar bed a 77/22? the screw does'nt go through the stock. Do you really free float that little pencil barrel? I thought that added more vibration and heat movement.
TRS. what is the ATE column?
After checking the bolt play, my all weather 24" has .015" play.
The 20" has .034" thats some major shimming.0 -
quote:Originally posted by moretoys
Thank you gentleman for the information, some confuseing.How do you pillar bed a 77/22? the screw does'nt go through the stock. Do you really free float that little pencil barrel? I thought that added more vibration and heat movement.
TRS. what is the ATE column? After checking the bolt play, my all weather 24" has .015" play.
The 20" has .034" thats some major shimming.
Yes, they both behind the trigger, and in front of the magazine well, go thru the stock. Yes, I put pillars in both of them.
Yes, I do really free float the little pencil barrel. I have tried it both ways, and this is the option that gave the best results.
ATE= "Ask The Experts"
The trigger is an important aspect, as are the handloads also.
Like Nononsense stated, this is not a Do It Yourself project. It NEEDS to go to someone who knows how, and has done it.
If you really want a topshelf shooter, sell your Ruger, and buy a Cooper Model 38. Very few production rifles shoot like they do...I hope the bean counter's never get a hold of that place.
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i've had a 77/22H for about 10+ years. at first its accuracy was really poor no matter with what load. i bought a new sear and spring and had thm installed along w a trigger job and bedded. after that it has shot very well (i don't measure tho)
btw, it only likes 33 or 35 gr bullets
bedding was just epoxy around the bedding screw0 -
I sold my all weather 77/22hornet after trying a trigger job.
If I had more money I would have tried harder.
It still only shot 1.5 inch at 50 yards after the trigger job.
Real nice looking and feeling rifle.
I am glad I kept my Savage 340.0
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