sw mod 10-5 trouble
i know it is hard to say on the internet what is wrong with a gun , but.
my mod 10 started acting up today, the cylinder got hard to open and shut back.
to shut it you had to push on the cylinder and the locking rod with both hands to get it to shut, and to open it you had to hit it with you palm to pop it open, when shut it worked fine.
all pins work good in and out, all screws were tight, forcing cone looked OK cylinder is not rubbing on anything i can see, no slop to speak of anywhere, just thinking someone might have had this happen to them so i can look for something else without taking it apart.
my mod 10 started acting up today, the cylinder got hard to open and shut back.
to shut it you had to push on the cylinder and the locking rod with both hands to get it to shut, and to open it you had to hit it with you palm to pop it open, when shut it worked fine.
all pins work good in and out, all screws were tight, forcing cone looked OK cylinder is not rubbing on anything i can see, no slop to speak of anywhere, just thinking someone might have had this happen to them so i can look for something else without taking it apart.
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chevie,
Most probable cause for the trouble you describe is a loose extractor rod. If the threads back off slightly, it will cause the difficulty you are having.
The extractor rod on a S&W M10-5 has a left hand thread.
1) place empty cases in the cylinder to hold the extractor star
2) with a strip of leather to pad the jaws of your pliers & keep from marring the knurled end of the extractor rod, grip the cylinder by hand & tighten the extractor rod.
If this doesn't do the trick, sounds like 'smith time.
Jim0 -
Jim hit the nail on the head, tighten the extractor rod and I'll bet all will be fine.
W.D.0 -
You have been given great advice! I just had the same thing happen with my S&W 66-1 2 1/2 incher. Remember that the ejector rod has LEFT hand threads too.
Best0 -
I WAS THINKING THAT
on the extractor rod i tried to turn it by hand while at the range expecting it to be handy but i didn't get any movement out of it,didn't have any pliers with me so im not sure if it might be gaulded or not.
i did leave it there for the range master to take a look at it today.
he has fixed a few guns here and there.
when it clicks into place you can tell the binding is in that area just i cant see anything.0 -
I would also add to check behind the star for powder residue, when all else has checked out that is usually the problem. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by k.stanonik
I would also add to check behind the star for powder residue, when all else has checked out that is usually the problem.
did that and blasted some break free around there also, didn't help[:(]0 -
Pliers and ejector rod=bad ju-ju.
The ejector rod is thin metal (the outer portion-not the locking pin). Grabbing the rod anywhere else, except the very tip will collapse the rod. It's like putting pliers to the side of a tomato can. Out of round will prevent the rod from performing the ejection function.
And they have to be true to the bore axis of the swing-out yoke to ensure reliable indexing of the chambers.
If you screw up, S&W has tons of model 10 ejector rod shrouds. Joe0
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