Brass Cleaning- How Clean is Clean?
Just threw in my first batch of 44 special/magnum brass to be cleaned, walnut media in the tumbler.
How clean do I need these to be for proper reloading? Should they look spottless inside and out? Is some gunpowder residue bad?
How clean do I need these to be for proper reloading? Should they look spottless inside and out? Is some gunpowder residue bad?
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They fill up with media on the inside and dont shine up as good as the outside.I dont worry if they glow like a new round so much as if they have a little shine and are smooth,they can still be a little dark in spots and still be clean and slick. You will most likely always have some residue inside,my pistols dont seem to mind. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by Radar
They fill up with media on the inside and dont shine up as good as the outside.I dont worry if they glow like a new round so much as if they have a little shine and are smooth,they can still be a little dark in spots and still be clean and slick. You will most likely always have some residue inside,my pistols dont seem to mind.
That's what I was thinking, but had to ask.
Thanks. [;)]0 -
You know, in more than a half-century of reloading, I have YET to have a shooter say, "My groups are awful, but look how shiny my brass is!"
Since I have no evidence that shiny shoots better, I simply don't worry about how clean they are. If they get gritty, I can "towel tumble" them with a spoonful of rubbing alcohol to prepare them for sizing. That's enough.0 -
My main concern is for the inside of the brass. I'm not sure if any gunpowder residue is bad or doesn't matter.
I really don't care how pretty it looks on the outside.0 -
It don't make no never mind nohow to nuthin'. 0 -
Well said Rocky !! 0 -
quote:Originally posted by floorguy24
My main concern is for the inside of the brass. I'm not sure if any gunpowder residue is bad or doesn't matter.
I really don't care how pretty it looks on the outside.
Some say it matters and some don't as far as changing volume of the case. I haven't noticed a any difference in that area. Even in any of my precision rifles. But, I don't own any records doing that either. So, I wouldn't say it's so critical. What is critical is any build up inside the neck. Knock it out with a brush. But, that is to help prevent runout not change volume. You want runout of .001" or less if you can. But, that's for precision rifles not just a rifle you reload for and hunt with. You may expect as much as .007" for that. But again, unless you are seeking accuracy under .2" it's not going to hurt anything.
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Or as Rocky noted "towel tumbling" I use the lube to soften up the carbon deposits on the neck so that is clean. Or a dab of gun cleaning solvent also dispenses with that carbon. Again that is just minimizing the chances for runout. It's not going to change the volume or even the neck size to where it won't shoot right in a standard rifle. In tight necked rifles it'll show up.0 -
i have shot with quite a few benchrest shooters who tumble only every so often. They simply fire, reload (at the range) fire, reload etc etc. 0 -
Meacham used to suggest cleaning the inside of the neck with 0000 steel wool (as an alternative to any degree of crimping) on .22 Hornets, to help with consistent grip on bullets. I've become a believer with that round but in general I'm with Rocky. [:D][:D] 0 -
My cases only have to pass one test- clean enough so as not to scratch my dies. Past that I don't care if they are shiny or fancy. Tumbling removes any soot or dirt from the outside, that's all I care about.
If using lube and regular FL sizing dies, I either tumble again after sizing and/or loading, or wipe down with a damp towel to remove excess lube if just a handful.0
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