S&W model 19 help needed
A friend just brought me his 357 Smith with a problem. When you pull the trigger six times two of the chambers seem to bind up on the rotation of the cylinder causing the trigger to be a stiff pull. The cylinder rotates without wobble the cylinder gap is not bad. The only thing I can see is that the cylinder ejector rod inner release spring loaded pin is a little stiff (like its gummed up a little). When you release the release lever to open and close the cylinder you have to be firm with it. Especially to close and lock the cylinder. Bent rod? just gummed up to much? P.S. I tried to disassemble the ejector rod and its a no go without a tool that won't mar the knurled end of the rod. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanx[V]
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Sounds like a bent ejector rod with the information you gave. 0 -
Dog gone it! Thats what I was thinking.[V]What should that cost to fix? How could that happen?[:(] 0 -
quote:Originally posted by Pistollero1050
I tried to disassemble the ejector rod and its a no go without a tool that won't mar the knurled end of the rod. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanx[V]This is most easily done with the cylinder removed from the frame. Remove the foreward screw on the sideplate and slide the entire crane/cylinder assembly toward the muzzle.
First, place six empty cases in the chambers to support the 'star' portion of the extractor. If you don't you will break parts.
Wrap the ejector rod with a piece of leather to protect it, then just turn it with pliers. Keep in mind that your gun uses reverse threading.
If nothing else, consider purchasing a purpose built removal/installation tool. They're not terribly expensive and come in handy for anyone who shoots a S&W revolver on a regular basis and wishes to be able to clean and maintain it properly.
www.brownells.com/1/1/18419-extractor-rod-tool-s-w-small-extractor-tool-brownells.html
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Make sure the weapon is empty, hold it up to the light in profile with the muzzle in a safe direction, function the action while watching the cylinder/barrel gap and the gap at the bottom rear of the cylinder above the locking bolt. If there is a bend you should see some variation in the gap. As mentioned above, the ejection rod is REVERSE threaded so it's lefty tighty. In a pinch I take the finger of a leather work glove and wrap it around the knurling and then apply the vise grips - there is not a lot of torque involved. 0 -
The left hand thread explains alot. I bet its real tight now. I will try the leather trick first. I dont see any indication of a bent rod but that is the only area I'm seeing that isn't working as advertised. Thanx I'll keep you guy's posted. Is the rod repairable or can I get a new one from somwhere other than S&W? P.S. I have and will heed your warnings. I do have some empties to put in the cylinder.[:D][V] 0 -
quote:Originally posted by Pistollero1050
Dog gone it! Thats what I was thinking.[V]What should that cost to fix? How could that happen?[:(]
Shouldn't cost too much to repair. As far as I know, it is caused by someone holding the revolver by the grip and briskly snapping it to snap the cylinder closed rather than using their other hand to push the cylinder closed.0 -
[/quote]Shouldn't cost too much to repair. As far as I know, it is caused by someone holding the revolver by the grip and briskly snapping it to snap the cylinder closed rather than using their other hand to push the cylinder closed.
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Or the crane is bent from the same type of mis-handling. Just to confirm either of these two problems do the following. Open the cylinder, pull the cylinder release latch to the rear with the index finger of the left hand and hold it there, then with the other hand cycle the action as if you were firing it in double action mode.
Should feel smooth unlike it does with the cylinder closed.0 -
I will check that tomorrow. thanx 0 -
With the cylinder open, spin it and look at the ejector rod. If it's bent you will see it.
If it's bent, remove it and lay it on a known hard surface and use a plastic hammer or hard leather mallet and tap it with the bent area down.0 -
Hi, Guys I got an update for you. I took the ejector rod assy apart and found it gummed up but with the ejector rod removed the cylinder still binds. I'm thinking the crane may be bent[V]. Any other thoughts? 0 -
Yes. The ejector rod missing will not allow the cylinder to 'true' in the yoke, and that may be the binding you are experiencing W/O the ejector rod in place.
Now, back to the ejector rod..I'd call S&W, and have them send you a replacement outer rod. Any [wrong] attempts to remove the ejector rod usually results in a flat-spotted ejector rod, or one buckled under rotational stress. Roll the rod on a pane of glass, and see for yourself. Joe0
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