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Remington 700 Bolt Replacement

dfletcher
I have a Remington VLS which uses the "J lock" on the bolt shroud and FP assembly - I doubt I've ever used the feature and am told replacing it may improve accuracy. Personally, I just don't like the look and would like to change it out.

How do I take apart the 700 bolt assembly? Any special tools required? I suppose I can replace the shroud only, but the FP assembly itself isn't all that expensive - if the trade off is spend $10.00 for a shroud but 2 hrs of aggravation as opposed to just unscrewing the entire FP assembly and dropping in a new one for $40.00 I might take that approach.

If it can be done with a few hand tools, I can do it.

Also, do I need anything that is "J Lock" specific or will regular 700 parts work?
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Comments

5 comments

Date Votes
  • BHAVIN
    I bought mine (a Gre-Tan brand) through Brownells and used the whole assembly (Brownells part #100-000-447). It is easy to take a Rem 700 bolt down. If you don't have the tool you can use the square edge of a bench or vice and a dime. On the shroud use the edge of your surface in the first notch on the firing pin assembly. Pull the bolt body down until the firing pin assembly slides back far enougth to expose the notch on the opposite side. Slip the dime into the notch and unthread the assembly out. Putting the new one back in is just in reverse. I did it this way for years and it is pretty simple however there are several brands of bolt tools out there that are even easier. I have a remington plastic one that uses one end for the J lock style and the other for standard bolts. I bought mine through Brownells several years ago and it was less than $10.00.

    Regular 700 parts will work.

    As an aside I had to readjust my trigger pull after I replaced my assembly. I also found out that the trigger pull on an empty chamber has some creep in it but when loaded with a dummy or live round the trigger is smooth and crisp. This caused me a lot of frustration as I adjusted the trigger several times with the same result until I figured out what was going on. This is with the old style Rem trigger.
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  • 5mmgunguy
    Trust me, get the tool to disassembly and reassemble the Rem bolt, it is so much easier.
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  • nononsense
    dfletcher,

    You have the process and the procedure correct. The logic is also good except when you have several to do and the price mounts quickly.

    The cocking piece can be gripped in a vise carefully while you pull and turn but using a tool from Brownells or probably even Midway will make this painless and simple.

    I made one of these years ago and I've been using it since then. It's probably done 2-3,000 bolts:

    http://www.brownells.com/1/1/1253-remington-bolt-disassembly-tool-remington-bolt-disassembly-tool-kleinendorst.html

    http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=26670/Product/REMINGTON_700_BOLT_DISASSEMBLY_TOOLS

    http://www.midwayusa.com/browse/BrowseProducts.aspx?pageNum=1&tabId=8&categoryId=8823&categoryString=649***10398***

    There are others, I'm sure.

    Best.
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  • dfletcher
    Thanks guys - so it looks like the basic choice is replace the firing pin assembly in its entirety for about $45.00, or buy a tool for about $30.00 and the bolt shroud alone for another $20.00.

    I know how to do the "shoe string" FP removal, but I guess that's as far as I can go without the tool. Any suggestions on a "light & fast" FP assembly - if I'm going to replace that part might as well make an upgrade, any "fast & light" assemblies suggested?
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  • nononsense
    dfletcher,

    http://www.superiorshootingsystems.com/SPEEDLOCK-Speedlock_Firing_Pins.html

    Best.
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