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Remington 721 stock finish?

idahoducker
Looks like someone got clumsy with a sander when fitting a new recoil pad to this one. There's about a 1" square patch of finish gone next to the pad on one side. Is there a good way to touch that up?
I don't like that bare patch there but I don't want it to be obvious that I fixed that particular spot either.
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Comments

6 comments

Date Votes
  • mrbruce
    You'll just need to blend it in the best you can with what ever finish was used or completely redo it...
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  • vdms55
    not 100% certain but i think remington uses a polyurthane to finish their wood. unless you possess the knowledge of a cabinet maker you may not be satisfied with the touch up. my vote is start from fresh. formbys furniture and paint stripper is my choice to remove the exsisting finish (home depot, lowes)then 10 to 12 coates of true oil (wallmart), sanding lightly between coates with 1000 grit wet & dry automotive paper (wallmart). i have found towards the end of coating the stock it is best to wipe the true oil as tight as possible. looks like its gonna snow up your way this week somemore anyway so what else is there to do at night after work?
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  • OleDuk
    Ducker, that gun being an older model Remington, it may have had a simple varnish finish on the stock. When they went to the polyurethane finish it really made things tougher from a refinishing standpoint. If you have a woodworking buddy who does nice finishes he might be able to re-finish just that spot if it's varnish job. If it's a poly finish, it might take some messing around.
    I think (!) with some patience and care you could get some walnut stain, get the color as close as possible, and rub a few coats of Tru-Oil on the damaged area letting each coat dry until the color suits you.

    Good Luck,

    OleDuk[:)][:)]
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  • dfletcher
    Give Birchwood Casey "Tru Oil" Stock finish a try. I just touched up an old Rem 40X stock and it came out very, very well. I have a 721 and the finish is much the same.

    The product is basically a fairly fast drying poly finish with a touch of something akin to linseed oil involved. Use a cloth to wipe it on, let dry for about 2 hrs then buff with fine steel wool to dull the finish. Repeat a few times, you'll end up filling the wood grain and blend it into the surrounding original finish.

    Don't be disappointed by the 1st coat, things look nice around coat 3.
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  • WinMike
    Had a similar issue on a 721....used a little dark stain (you can find them @ your paint store; they look like a wide point Sharpie and then seal it with some simple furniture oil and/or floor wax. The original finish on mine is very low-tech.

    I thought walnut stain would match my stock, but another wood stain proved to be the correct shade....if you can take the stock (minus the barreled action) to the store, you'll be surprised how many of the clerks (at least in my hardware store) gathered around to give advice.
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  • RCrosby
    Another vote for TruOil, though I apply and rub each coat in with bare fingers, rubbing until it starts to feel tacky. Once dry, cut it back down to bare wood with OOOO steel wool, be sure to clean off any wool fragments, and repeat the process. By the third coat or so you'll have a good sense of what it looks like after drying and after being cut back down. That will tell you how you want to deal with the final coat.
    Some advise NOT to use the steel wool, but I've never had a problem with it so long as I'm careful in my final wipe down before applying the next coat. I'd definitely try the spot touch up first, and then, if you aren't happy with the results, go for a full redo. Also, if stain will be needed, try different ones on the inside of the barrel channel or action area to see how it actually affects the color of the wood.
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