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Staining Stock

marecycling
Restoring my first shotgun, a Sears model 200, 12 gauge. Had to find a replacement stock. Located a beauty and stripped new stock and original fore stock. They are differing colors, once stripped. Not sure if they have retained their original stain colors or if they are actually different types of wood. The grain patterns and density of both pieces seem the same, just differing shades. I wish to stain them in a dark walnut, hoping the stain will bring the colors of both fairly close. My question is about the next step in the process. I want to use an oiled finish to protect the wood(Birchwood-Casey True Oil.) Can I use this type of oiled final finish over a stain, or does the wood have to be left natural? Any advice or tips are appreciated. Anyone out there have a barrel that will fit this shotgun?
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4 comments

Date Votes
  • 45er
    Marecycling,

    Howdy again. I've used Tru oil with great success on various firearms. Though some time ago, cannot now recall if applied a-top a stain, though cannot see a problem, as stain is like a dye, not a sealer? Have done it with tung and linseed oil, even mixing the stain into each.

    If not aware, the B. Caseys hand-rub kit, (as opposed to the spray can stuff), even comes with a walnut stain, is the way I'd go for what you describe. Follow their directions, and going a dark walnut will benefit to matching up the wood, as opposed to going lighter.

    Barrel: Look up gunparts.com. and also a Goggle search, realizing this shotgun has been out of production for a long time, so may or not be so easy to find? (Mine was made circa the early 1950's). Also be aware even though your Model 200 is basically a High Standard Model 20, there may be issue with exact matching due to various production differences? And would ask the seller for guarantee of a match up.
    You do not state, but what is wrong with your existing barrel?Someone here may have idears for that besides a replacement?

    EDIT Just read Dryguch's reply, and, yes, options abound! A recent thread below to read is also about Tru Oil for more info.
    For stain when using tung or linseed, Minwax works fine and quite available, my experience, with a plethora of shades. And have used finest 000 steel wood to take down shine as someone mentioned in the Tue Oil thread, as is the easiest to work with.
    I mentioned B. Casey's kit for simplicities sake in one-stop-shopping,(meaning as am lazy by nature), and the stain/finish are made to work together.
    EDIT AGAIN! Win-1200? Well, blow me down. When I first came into possesion of the m-200, taking the numbers off it found mine was a High Stantard, and looked no further. Get's confusing, don't it?. Well, the Win-1200 will surely have better chance to find a barrel then.
    45er
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  • drygulchdan
    I would use Watco Dark Walnut Stain first. Probably try one coat on the darker piece, then several coats on the lighter piece to try to match the shade. Then I would protect it with several coats of Tru Oil. After the finish is cured, I use a slurry of wet pumice and a cotton pad to smooth out the finish. Start with 2F, then 4F. After that, I use a slurry of Rottenstone and a cotton pad. You will have a finish smooth as glass when your done. I have done a couple of Yugo M48's, Remington 550's and an Ithaca 37 using this method, all turned out great.
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  • marecycling
    quote:Originally posted by 45er
    Marecycling,

    Howdy again. I've used Tru oil with great success on various firearms. Though some time ago, cannot now recall if applied a-top a stain, though cannot see a problem, as stain is like a dye, not a sealer? Have done it with tung and linseed oil, even mixing the stain into each.

    If not aware, the B. Caseys hand-rub kit, (as opposed to the spray can stuff), even comes with a walnut stain, is the way I'd go for what you describe. Follow their directions, and going a dark walnut will benefit to matching up the wood, as opposed to going lighter.

    Barrel: Look up gunparts.com. and also a Goggle search, realizing this shotgun has been out of production for a long time, so may or not be so easy to find? (Mine was made circa the early 1950's). Also be aware even though your Model 200 is basically a High Standard Model 20, there may be issue with exact matching due to various production differences? And would ask the seller for guarantee of a match up.
    You do not state, but what is wrong with your existing barrel?Someone here may have idears for that besides a replacement?

    45er
    0
  • marecycling
    quote:Originally posted by marecycling
    quote:Originally posted by 45er
    Marecycling,

    Howdy again. I've used Tru oil with great success on various firearms. Though some time ago, cannot now recall if applied a-top a stain, though cannot see a problem, as stain is like a dye, not a sealer? Have done it with tung and linseed oil, even mixing the stain into each.

    If not aware, the B. Caseys hand-rub kit, (as opposed to the spray can stuff), even comes with a walnut stain, is the way I'd go for what you describe. Follow their directions, and going a dark walnut will benefit to matching up the wood, as opposed to going lighter.

    Barrel: Look up gunparts.com. and also a Goggle search, realizing this shotgun has been out of production for a long time, so may or not be so easy to find? (Mine was made circa the early 1950's). Also be aware even though your Model 200 is basically a High Standard Model 20, there may be issue with exact matching due to various production differences? And would ask the seller for guarantee of a match up.
    You do not state, but what is wrong with your existing barrel?Someone here may have idears for that besides a replacement?

    45er
    Thanks for info 45er! Just a quick note, my Sears model 200 is a Winchester model 1200.
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