reaming? 338 ultra mag
well we have finally found a rifle to our liking. remingtonn mod 700 left hand 338 UM. question is how much does it cost to have a barrel reamed?
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Reamed for what??
CP0 -
to fit a 300 ultra mag case for a 338 edge. 0 -
CHAMBER reaming is what you meant I believe. I don't have the chamber dimensions for both available to me (Nononesense will be THE man for that one!)but there has to be enough meat left in the correct area to ream it out to 338 edge. If there IS enough tolerance, then it would be likely as simple as finish reaming the chamber to the Edge dimensions; again, as long as there is not a large difference between the two dimentionally. 0 -
Try contacting Kevin Cram @ http://montourcountyrifles.com/ ... he's got the reamer and have built many .338 EDGE or you can always go to Shawn Carlock (popularized the .338 EDGE) @ http://www.defensiveedge.net/338 edge/338 edge.htm
Good luck!
Ed0 -
By doing this, there is going to be about 0.090" in case length awarded to the EDGE. That is very little gain, probably 50-100 FPS, if that. Thats in a 28-30 inch barrel. Then you have to consider, do you want this to be a single shot, or a repeater. The Sendero SF-II I have would be a single shot, if I seated the bullet out to the lands, as I got the rifle. The COL would have been a LOT longer than the magazine...something to keep in mind is magazine length, versus the throat depth.
Next is the efficiency...you are going to need at least a 28 inch barrel to take all the 338 RUM can deliver...you have what...a 26 incher?
Then, there is the actuall reaming job. There needs to be a custom bore guide made for the reemer, to keep it from chattering, The bore guide has to have virtually O.0000" TIR, when attatched to the reemer. Oh, and yes...the bore guide will have to be around 5-6 inches long.
Projects are fun, but they can also be counter productive.
Best0 -
tylerzent92,
Usually, it's about $100 - $125 to finish ream a chamber as you describe. This necessarily involves removing the barrel from the receiver, putting it in the lathe, indication it in and cutting the chamber. Your barrel is then re-assembled as supplied. If there is the potential for any marking on the finished barrel, you'll need to include bluing or in the case of stainless, bead blasting. While you're at the gunsmith's, consider have the crown re-cut as a precaution.
I'm sure that you'll have a hard time appreciating what I'm about to type:
Going to this effort and expense will largely be a waste of time and money. The 26" factory barrel will not yield any significant increase in the velocity over the original .338 RUM chamber and velocity. Simply increasing the weight of powder does not always accomplish any improvement in velocity without increasing the barrel length. It's a fact of life and physics unfortunately.
Personally, I would concentrate on the .338 RUM chamber and work on getting the best bullet for your adventure, to shoot accurately at the velocity needed to get you to 1,000 yards while staying supersonic.
According to my notes, you should have something in the neighborhood of 1,600 ft. lbs. of energy remaining at 1,000 yards when using a 250 grain bullet. This implies that the rifle and cartridge are capable but says nothing about the shooter or the conditions. Not only must you be prepared but you'll need a great scope to insure that what you see is what you harvest. This is no place for a $300 bargain scope, you'll need something much better. Plan this cost into your budget, period.
Good luck with your project!
Best.0
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