Gunstock refinishing using tung oil
Does anyone have a definitive method of doing this? I have heard and read all kinds of stuff. Just want the best method. I even heard of boiling the entire stock in water which I thought was way out there. Help me sift through all the bs please. I ordered 100% tung oil last week from local paint store.
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Its no big secret. Like any oil finish. You prep your stock by removing the existing finish...
Sand out problem areas.
Then apply tung oil. Use as many coats as you choose for effect. Sand or steel wool lightly for tack between coats. Usually 2 or 3 coats works.0 -
I may ask why you are looking to use tung oil?
Some people are alergic to tung oil, that is why it has not really been used in much production of gunstocks. From what I understand, there was a period that the military used it on their rifles and stopped because of alergic reactions that the users were having.
If you are just looking for an oil finish, use something like TRU OIL. Or another oil that is meant for gunstocks (Linspeed, Permalyn, etc...). TRU OIL is cheap and easy to use.
If existing finish is thick use a chemical stripper to remove it and then reopen the pores by sanding. If it is fearly thin or worn, just sand it off. Be careful at your edges where the wood meets the metal. You don't want to sand too much and make the metal proud.
Sand to at least a 220 grit finish. I typically go to 500g on my stocks.
This is how I apply Tru Oil.
rub in by hand and let set up. After a few hours a new coat can be put right over the previous. If it drys overnight, you will have to light ly hit it with steel wool (0000) before re-coating. Every 4 coats I wet sand with 800g. This knocks down the high build of the oil. Remeat this until all the grain is filled. I find that around 12 coats usually does it. After coats 6-8 I typically switch to using Blue nitrile gloves on my hands because it leaves a smoother wipe than my bare skin.
Finally, leave the last coat for a gloss finish, of lightly buff it down with 0000 steel wool or some pumice for a semi-gloss or flat finish.0 -
The last stocks I refinished, I used the Formby's kit for furniture refinishing.
http://www.formbys.com/products/tung_oil.cfm
It took several weeks to get everything right and when I was done I used a Poly over coat on it and it shined almost as much as the old Remington RKW high gloss finish.
The Tung oil allows ametures to refinish a gun stock without the fear of getting streaks or runs and not being able to work them out.
I would be careful how I finished it though, because once it gets down into the wood, you have a hard time trying to change colors or changing the appearance of the wood.
I would make sure to practice on a similiar piece of wood before I started refinishing my gun stock if I were you.0 -
If I decided to stain to change the tint of the bare wood, at what stage would this be done? 0 -
quote:Originally posted by hawgfan
If I decided to stain to change the tint of the bare wood, at what stage would this be done?
I stain twice. once before the initial slop coats, and then again after I sand off the slop coats to fill the grain. You need to fill the grain or the job wont look professional.0 -
Thanks cartod. Is this idea that the tung oil is what fills the grain? 0 -
Eventually. It takes quite a few coats, but leaves a nice finish. I always use Acetone and fine steel wool to remove the old finish. Minimal sanding, if any. Steam out dents with a wet cloth and stem iron or soldering iron. Have fun because it is fun.
Tom[:)]0 -
It's an old Stevens .22 bolt action. I know the wood is not walnut, it's very light. I am guessing it's birch or poplar. If that be the case would it accept stain readily? Any tips for staining? 0 -
I will avoid staining if possible because future touch-ups of scrapes is much easier with oil only finishes.
However, people want what they want...so I'll do the best I can for them. Some stains mix well with oils for a first coat, but it will not give you the full coloring (which can be good). Application of stain first usually gives you the deepest shading. Avoid any stain/sealer type products. The first application of almost anything will change your final prep sanding, so do your final smoothing again before another coat of anything. ( as Cartod advised ). Re-apply stain until you have uniform coverage, allow generous drying time, then smooth out again and begin putting your cover/sealer on. (Sanding with very fine 'wet' paper and your stain or oil product after the first applications can help with a smooth application until you have filled the pores of the wood.
Do a GOOD prep, take your time, and ENJOY !
Keep your stain sealed well, and record the shade and make, to help if you need to (or choose to) repair a few scrapes and such a few years later.0 -
Probably birch. Poplar has very little strength- match sticks are made of poplar. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by hawgfan
If I decided to stain to change the tint of the bare wood, at what stage would this be done?
I have gone through gallons of the stuff .
If you are going to stain the wood ,give it at least 72 hours to dry before starting the Tung oil .
Use the heel of your hand to work in the tung oil .
The heat helps the oil to set .
After several coats ,rub the finish with a slurry of Rottenstone and boiled linseed oil .
That works up a good sheen .0 -
Hawgfan- I looked, but didn't see that anyone mentioned getting the stock real wet. DON'T! That will cause cracks even if there weren't any before. There is a man that sells, reasonably, instructions that detail gunstock refinishing and finishing. His methods mirror many old timers that know how to do a decent job. Do a search and look for a Tripod .com website under rifinishing gunstocks. In order for anybody to help you effectively, on a posting such as this, you would need them to write a book.-Regards, Mike 0
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