Rust on my safe queen
I discovered 6 or 8 tiny rust spots on one of my Ted williams model 400. Its not expensive but it was near mint until I saw the rust. I put kano oil on it. How long should I leave that on my gun before I try to rub the rust off?
Thanks
Thanks
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Kano Laboratories makes hundreds of lubricants; I assume that you mean Kano Kroil.
For light surface rust, I would remove it immediately. First I'd rub with coarse cloth like burlap. If that doesn't do it, I'd move up to 0000 bronze wool & more Kroil. (I've used 0000 steel wool without adverse effect, but there others here who believe you should never use steel wool.)
Neal0 -
I have in the past used a sharpened pencil eraser with either OOOO bronze or steel wool (I agree with Neal here, but others just don't believe in steel wool!). Cut the eraser with a sharp knife until you have a rough conical point and the ruub the eraser smooth to get a nice graduated point. Wrap the wool around that (obviously a tiny bit of the wool will do) and apply Kroil, or your oil of choice and use magnification to hit the rust spots as pin point as possible. This will keep the abrasive from getting into/thin the blue where it has not been otherwise damaged. Keep in mind that blueing is more or less rust anyway (a form of oxidization) and the tables can turn pretty quick! 0 -
djh860,
I will recommend a technique for removing light rust from the blued metal surfaces on guns but care must be taken. This technique will only remove surface rust and will not remove rust that has eaten into the metal but it will slow further damage. Also, never use this technique on very collectible and valuable guns.
Take a piece of copper water inlet pipe about 6 to 8 inches long and hammer it totally flat with a ball-pin hammer. Next, file both ends similar to a putty knife but sharpen only one side (one side of the now flat copper pipe being the one you want to make the top while the other is the bottom) like a scraping knife for removing paint. Some disassembly of the gun is in order to prevent any slips that may damage the stock. Now apply a generous amount of Gun Oil such as Rem Oil to the area of blued metal where the surface rust needs to be removed. Very carefully begin to scrap the rust from the surface as if you were removing paint from a window. Note: Make sure that you don't scrap any areas that have not been oiled as the copper pipe scrapper can scratch the blued surface. However, it will not damage the bluing on areas that have been oiled! You may have to bare down somewhat to remove some stubborn rust areas, if it can be removed at all (Note: this method will not remove any pitting, it will just remove surface rust!). Don't be alarmed that the copper from the pipe leaves fair amounts of copper coloring on the areas on the gun that are treated. When done, just rub the oil off with a clean cleaning cloth and the copper residue will be removed at the same time. Once you have removed as much of surface rust as possible, re-oil the entire gun with a light coating and leave a light coat of oil on the gun to prevent any re-occurrence of surface rust returning quickly. This method is not a solution to the problem of the rust but it will slow any further rust damage and make the gun more presentable.
I have also seen Gunsmiths and Gun Dealers use Copper Brillo Pads on old guns of low value that have that crusted, thick old rust brown look to them. This is not to be confused with the nice brown patina look that most Collectors like to see on an old collectible gun. I am talking about the rust brown that has become crusty and thick and somewhat layered with time. This technique is okay to use on guns of low value or collectible guns that are rusted beyond their' collectibility. Do not use this technique on collectible guns that just need a good cleaning or touch here and there. This technique is done using pretty much the same instructions as in the technique above. However, instead of using a Copper Pipe, you use a Copper Brillo Pad (make sure it is made of Copper and is not Copper coated) so the entire barrel and action can be scrubbed. This technique requires that a generous amount of oil be spread over the entire gun metal.
If you are somewhat uncomfortable in trying this on the subject gun, then experiment first with a much lower valued gun that has some surface rust.0 -
I use a penny and Kroil oil. 0 -
Depending on the gun value different methods. If it just a regular shooter. Whatever is handy at my bench to lose-sen rust liquid wrench wd40 kroil kero...Leave it for a while thumb nail it then address with copper wire or tooth brush again dependent on level of rust.
If its a browning or value gun. It kroil and strictly hand work with some gun oil rubbed in to clear out the cancer spot.0 -
quote:Originally posted by 5mmgunguy
I use a penny and Kroil oil.
Make sure it is an older copper penny. Not the newer alloy ones.0 -
I have used WD-40 and a rifle case with the mouth pounded flat to make a scaper for surface rust - won't get into pits. Stay away from "naval jelly" it WILL take the bluing off anywhere it touchs.
The cartridge case must be all brass, of course0 -
When I was in the Corps boot camp and we were issued M-1s, our DI said to remove any surface rust using a plain old rubber (or what ever they are made of) eraser. He also said to not let an officer catch you doing it, why I don't know. But it worked and still works for me. 0 -
I know every one is giving ideas on how to remove it. BUT how did it get there to start with? do you a golden rod or some other device for moister? or did it get something on while out of the safe and have you checked others?
Richard0 -
Eraser, a new one, as the tool for removal.
Use Eezox as a rust inhibitor to avoid this problem in the future.0
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