Anyone Installed A Revolver Trigger Spring...?
I bought the wifey [aka ozma] a New S&W 642-2 J-Frame 38 Spcl +P (with PINK Grips...)
and needed to and here's what I did...
It's very possible that this same technique would be applicable to other
Compression Spring Installations... I hope it helps you out.
Originally Posted in The General Discussion Forum as a "Mystery Tool" Mystery Tool... for Smithin'... Identified?
Reference : What's the Old adage... "Necessity Is The Mother Of Invention."
I gave ozma a brand New S&W Airweight 642-2 38 SPCL +P... (with Pink Grips of course. [;)])
But that little gun had some fierce trigger pull... I gaged it and found it to be ~12 pounds plus.
ozma 'ould' pull the trigger with considerable effort, but no way could she keep it on target... Something has got to be done!
So off to the Wolff Springs website to see what was available... Wolff S&W J-Frame Springs
What I found was that the factory trigger rebound spring is an 18 pounder!!!
Obviously someone has 'accidentally discharged' the gun with a practical and reliable sized spring...
I ordered the "calibration Pack" with 12-16 pound springs and the loweest sized 11 pound spring separately.
I also ordered a reduced power 8 pound hammer spring...
The springs came in Thursday and commenced to work at replacing the springs and smoothin' out
the sliding contact points to ease the trigger pull... BTW if you need a good video Here's an EXCELLENT One
Well I was able to get it done... but had some difficulty in re-assembly of the trigger rebound spring.
The damn thing kept taking flight... [}:)] So ALL day Friday... It was on my mind... There's just GOT to be a better way.
Then it hit me... use a tool that would engage the spring, compress it, and be easy to remove after engaging the retaining post...
Yeah... RIGHT! But I figured I'd try something... and went by Home DEPOT on the way home.
Found that if the fins on a TORX bit were removed ever so much that it just might work...
Got home took the calipers and measure the OD/ID of the spring and found for the S&W 642 the T-25 was a perfect match...
The OD of the tool is about ).015" smaller than the spring OD and the 'barrel section'
of the tool bit is just a couple of thousands larger than the spring ID...
So about 15 minutes later and several hundred strokes of a mill file...
I had the tool pictured above... Never realizing I probably could have bought it out right at Home DEPOT...
Anyways... Here's a picture sequence showing how it was used in replacing the trigger rebound spring...
The GREAT thing about it is... the idea will work with most ALL compression springs!!!
Oh HAPPY DAYS ARE HERE AGAIN!!! No more damn flying springs!!!
AND now a Pictorial "How TO"
The tool shown as modified from a standard T25 TORX bit...
The 'fins' have been taken down evenly all around leaving a protrusion approximately 0.070" long extending 'away' from the remaining 'fins'...
The diameter of the newly cut "nose" is ~0.110"-0.115" and fits the ID of the spring with about 0.005"-0.007" clearance radially.
The spring ID is 0.124"-0.125"
The nose has been rounded over so as to be able to slip out when needed to but still work to retain the spring well.
[img][/img]
The tool and spring shown how they are engaged...
The inner workings of the S&W 642 with the trigger rebound spring now swapped...
The tool set engaged into the trigger rebound spring ready to be compressed...
The spring fully compressed with the tool setting on the retaining pin of the frame...
NOTE that the TORX Bit grooves work WITH you to get the spring engaged WITHOUT fightin' the damn spring!!!
Just straddle the retaining pin with two of the 'fins' of the TORX' driver and Wha-LAAA!
The trigger rebound spring has been EASILY engaged with the retainer pin AND the modified TORX bit has been easily removed...
By applying downward finger pressure to the rebound slide AND simultaneously lifting the tool...
The spring 'slips' into position and the tool comes free from its engagement...
[NOTE: The boogered edge from the previous nights attempt to do the same thing... [V]]
The rebound slide with NEWLY installed 'Reduced Power' trigger rebound spring is now fully installed...
Unfortunately though my first installation without this GREAT tool caused slight damage to the finely machined edge of the frame.
Not bad... but it shows... This tool keeps this from happening and you can do it all from
beginning of screw removal to final re-assembly of the grips in about 15 minutes or less!
AND Final Celebratory Picture showing said S&W 642-2 Airweight (with Pink Grips) and tool!
I hope that anyone that ever needs to compress a spring to install it gets a little help from this idea... [^]
I'd appreciate knowing of this helps you any at all... or if it's just another dumb idea of mine. [:D]
and needed to and here's what I did...
It's very possible that this same technique would be applicable to other
Compression Spring Installations... I hope it helps you out.
Originally Posted in The General Discussion Forum as a "Mystery Tool" Mystery Tool... for Smithin'... Identified?
Reference : What's the Old adage... "Necessity Is The Mother Of Invention."
I gave ozma a brand New S&W Airweight 642-2 38 SPCL +P... (with Pink Grips of course. [;)])
But that little gun had some fierce trigger pull... I gaged it and found it to be ~12 pounds plus.
ozma 'ould' pull the trigger with considerable effort, but no way could she keep it on target... Something has got to be done!
So off to the Wolff Springs website to see what was available... Wolff S&W J-Frame Springs
What I found was that the factory trigger rebound spring is an 18 pounder!!!
Obviously someone has 'accidentally discharged' the gun with a practical and reliable sized spring...
I ordered the "calibration Pack" with 12-16 pound springs and the loweest sized 11 pound spring separately.
I also ordered a reduced power 8 pound hammer spring...
The springs came in Thursday and commenced to work at replacing the springs and smoothin' out
the sliding contact points to ease the trigger pull... BTW if you need a good video Here's an EXCELLENT One
Well I was able to get it done... but had some difficulty in re-assembly of the trigger rebound spring.
The damn thing kept taking flight... [}:)] So ALL day Friday... It was on my mind... There's just GOT to be a better way.
Then it hit me... use a tool that would engage the spring, compress it, and be easy to remove after engaging the retaining post...
Yeah... RIGHT! But I figured I'd try something... and went by Home DEPOT on the way home.
Found that if the fins on a TORX bit were removed ever so much that it just might work...
Got home took the calipers and measure the OD/ID of the spring and found for the S&W 642 the T-25 was a perfect match...
The OD of the tool is about ).015" smaller than the spring OD and the 'barrel section'
of the tool bit is just a couple of thousands larger than the spring ID...
So about 15 minutes later and several hundred strokes of a mill file...
I had the tool pictured above... Never realizing I probably could have bought it out right at Home DEPOT...
Anyways... Here's a picture sequence showing how it was used in replacing the trigger rebound spring...
The GREAT thing about it is... the idea will work with most ALL compression springs!!!
Oh HAPPY DAYS ARE HERE AGAIN!!! No more damn flying springs!!!
AND now a Pictorial "How TO"
The tool shown as modified from a standard T25 TORX bit...
The 'fins' have been taken down evenly all around leaving a protrusion approximately 0.070" long extending 'away' from the remaining 'fins'...
The diameter of the newly cut "nose" is ~0.110"-0.115" and fits the ID of the spring with about 0.005"-0.007" clearance radially.
The spring ID is 0.124"-0.125"
The nose has been rounded over so as to be able to slip out when needed to but still work to retain the spring well.
[img][/img]
The tool and spring shown how they are engaged...
The inner workings of the S&W 642 with the trigger rebound spring now swapped...
The tool set engaged into the trigger rebound spring ready to be compressed...
The spring fully compressed with the tool setting on the retaining pin of the frame...
NOTE that the TORX Bit grooves work WITH you to get the spring engaged WITHOUT fightin' the damn spring!!!
Just straddle the retaining pin with two of the 'fins' of the TORX' driver and Wha-LAAA!
The trigger rebound spring has been EASILY engaged with the retainer pin AND the modified TORX bit has been easily removed...
By applying downward finger pressure to the rebound slide AND simultaneously lifting the tool...
The spring 'slips' into position and the tool comes free from its engagement...
[NOTE: The boogered edge from the previous nights attempt to do the same thing... [V]]
The rebound slide with NEWLY installed 'Reduced Power' trigger rebound spring is now fully installed...
Unfortunately though my first installation without this GREAT tool caused slight damage to the finely machined edge of the frame.
Not bad... but it shows... This tool keeps this from happening and you can do it all from
beginning of screw removal to final re-assembly of the grips in about 15 minutes or less!
AND Final Celebratory Picture showing said S&W 642-2 Airweight (with Pink Grips) and tool!
I hope that anyone that ever needs to compress a spring to install it gets a little help from this idea... [^]
I'd appreciate knowing of this helps you any at all... or if it's just another dumb idea of mine. [:D]
0
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With a lighter return spring, the trigger return will appear to 'stick' somewhat as the hand rides over the rotating ratchet in the extrator.
It's normal. So long as the trigger returns to the full forward position when slowly releasing the trigger. Best, Joe0 -
Pretty neat little gizmo.
I just use a screwdriver.0 -
All I've ever used is a small stright screw driver the same size as the spring. Been doing them for about 35yrs. 0 -
Brownell's sells a neat little tool just for this. I have used a small screw driver with a "v" notch filed in the center of the blade to grip the last coil of the spring while inserting it in the rebound block. 0
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