1895 Nagant Ammunition Clarification
Hey Folks:
Been researching past posts on the Nagant revolver and the ammunition question. A lot of the posts are up to 10 years old, and there is different information from one post to the next. I am purchasing one, so I would like to know for sure:
1. Are different cylinders required for .32 ACP, .32 S&WL, .32 HRMag, and even a 32-20?
2. Which cartridges are cylinders NOT required?
3. Are there any specific RED FLAGS I would need to know about with ANY of the acceptable cartridges?
Been researching past posts on the Nagant revolver and the ammunition question. A lot of the posts are up to 10 years old, and there is different information from one post to the next. I am purchasing one, so I would like to know for sure:
1. Are different cylinders required for .32 ACP, .32 S&WL, .32 HRMag, and even a 32-20?
2. Which cartridges are cylinders NOT required?
3. Are there any specific RED FLAGS I would need to know about with ANY of the acceptable cartridges?
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They say the gun will shoot 32 s&w long and 32 h&r mag with the original cylinder but the cases split.
There was a conversion cylinder available for them in 32 acp. Haven't seen those in years. I have never read of someone using 32 acp in an original nagant cylinder.
Edit: I don't think there are any cylinders in other calibers besides the originals and 32acp.
32-20 can't be done because the bottleneck in the case is too big even on my somewhat oversize military ww2-era hastily made wartime guns. The brass can be used to make nagant rounds if the rims aren't too large. The cylinder won't seal but since it is pushed forward by the rim and 32-20 rims are so thick, there'll be almost no gap-one of my nagants bound a bit on two chambers because the cyl was wedged against the barrel. You need to buy the lee dies if you want to do that. You also need to find a powder that ignites well because the chamber was designed for a case that sticks out the front end of the cyl, and with 32-20 brass the bullet will have to jump from the case neck to the barrel unsupported as the primer flash escapes around it.
some people do report using 32 h&r mag, that doesn't mean the gun can take magnum pressures. The chamber is so much larger than a real 32 h&r that the case expands and splits, and that makes it in effect a much milder cartridge when fired in a nagant. If you were to try to load a nagant case to 32 h&r pressure it might burst.
Some claim to have seen nagants which would take the 7.62x25; those were probably the older Swiss nagants made for an old bottlenecked round.
a few companies have real nagant ammo now.0 -
I own both the revolver and the extra cylinder. Since I reload, and because making 7.62 Nagent brass from 32-20 is one of the easiest cartridge conversions ever, I've never taken the time to install the .32 ACP cylinder; probably should sell it. I have no experience with the other cartridges you mention.
Because initially I thought I might load for .32 ACP as well, I used 71 gr. Rem. FMJ, 3 gr. Green Dot and SP primers (all the cautions about using reloading info on this site apply). These are .32 S&W Long loads, very mild, and commercial loaded cartridges (see below) seem more brisk.
I used the Lee 7.62 Nagant 3-die set, which comes with a 7.62 Nagent sizing die, 32-20 expander and seating dies and #6 shell-holder. No other dies are necessary. To make the Nagant brass, simply size the 32-20 brass (Midway says Star brass apparently has the thinnest rims*), then load. If I loaded this caliber a lot, I'd probably invest in Lee's .32 taper crimp die (I use that die in other calibers, and like it very much).
Later, I bought some "Hotshot" brand (made in Serbia) Nagant 98 gr. FPJ. Although they shoot brisker, they shoot close to the same 25 yd. spot as the above Rem. RN load. But there's no reason, unless you're shooting inside or have other restrictions, to shoot jacketed bullets. Next time, I'll look for .32 cal. 98 gr. lead SWC. Because the 32-20 brass measures 1.283, you can load the bullet out to 1.51 OAL, and the SWC would probably "seal" the cylinder/barrel gap better than the JRN. Not sure it really makes a difference to make that "seal", but it's more in keeping in the spirit of the gun design.
For those not familiar with the Nagant, when the revolver is cocked or fired, the cylinder moves forward to touch/seal the barrel/cylinder gap. Then the cylinder retracts to rotate. Consequently, the factory cartridge has the bullet flush with the brass; a slight bottleneck is created to hold the bullet and fit into the barrel.
It's a fun gun to load for, and to shoot. And it's fun to show others how, despite somewhat crude manufacturing, it's still a most unique design. And the history? Don't get me started on that!
*Hotshot brass rims measure .258 thick, Star 32-20 .57, but fit fine in my revolver.0 -
Doesn't sound too bad to reload for. I have seen some brass online for sale for the Nagant as well. I would think, that with the number of these things being sold, that there might be some manufactureres that might take more advantage of the demand, instead of raising the price on what there is out there.
THANK GOODNESS FOR MY RCBS PRESS!!
I know this topic has been visited a time or twenty, but I was hoping for as much updated advice as possible.
MYTH OR FACT:
I had heard, or read, that you could fire 32-20 through them, but that you had to seat the bullet deeper.0 -
quote:Originally posted by 1988z01MYTH OR FACT:
I had heard, or read, that you could fire 32-20 through them, but that you had to seat the bullet deeper.
seating the bullet deeper raises pressure because the same amount of powder has less space to go off in.
When I got new 32-20 brass, I test fit a few in my chamber and they would not go in.
Anyway the bullet is crimped so you'd have to pull the bullet, save the charge, flare the case again, seat the bullet, then hope the bullet didn't move forward from recoil because if you put it in deeper, the case mouth would no longer line up with the crimp groove on the bullet.0 -
Thanks. That dispells that one. 0 -
I reload 32-20 brass for mine using the Lee Nagant 3 die set. I had a few boxes of factory 32-20 ammo; they were too long for the cylinder so I seated the bullets slightly deeper to allow the cylinder to turn and they worked just fine in my revolvers. I have also used 32 S&W Long factory ammo. Occasionally a case would split and of course the empties were bulged and I threw them away. I have fired the shorter round called the 32 S&W with no problems at all. The cases bulge a bit but none split in my guns. I even reloaded them a few times. Always wear good safety glasses when firing any handgun, especially the Nagant when firing non-standard ammo. Off topic, but related...I routinely shoot .40 S&W ammo in my 10mm Glock. Sometimes you have to actually try something to believe it can work. 0 -
I have shot .32 Mag cowboy loads with lead bullets in mine. Cases bulge but do not split and works fine. 0 -
FWIW, this revolver is the only one that can actually accept a silencer on it! 0 -
WinMike if you decide to sell the extra cyl you should be able to buy another Nagant revolver. I know when I had mine the 32ACP cyls were going for more than the gun. 0 -
hmmmm.....can't find any in the last 90 days. Any ideas on value? 0
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