muzzle brake
I've been hearing that in you have a muzzle brake that can open and close, like on my Savage, you will not have the same point of impact if you sight your rifle in with the brake open, then shoot it with the brake closed. Any truth to this? Mine doesn't seem to make any difference out to 200 yds. at the range.
0
-
Is there a muzzle brake for a 581 model Ruger Mini 30 that's worth a darn? 0 -
Make certain your barrel length remains +16" and you meet OAL requirements - other than that, get a good clean crown. I had a barrel shortened just a bit on my Robinson M96 for just that reason. Also, most threading has a small strip of "no threading" just ahead of the barrel shoulder - not sure what this accomplishes but it seems universal. Check out the threading on an AR barrel for an example. 0 -
1tinman1,
As dfletcher said you need to keep the barrel at least 16". That means the barrel without any add-ons. However if you have the brake soldered on you can go shorter as long as the soldered brake and barrel make the 16".
That said the shorter you go the more effective, usually, a brake is. Some brakes are very effective already and you won't want to shorten a barrel with them. They will also be louder and give a higher muzzle blast pressure with them, outwardly to your friends or back at you.
Even though the brake will be more effective you will lose effectiveness with the round. Shortening the barrel by 2" can reduce velocity as much as 100 fps. Even without a brake that is also going to increase muzzle blast. Those are some things to consider.
You also want to choose a brake that is going to work with the round, not just a dead-weight 'cool lookin' thing' on the end of your barrel. The amount of pressure the round puts down the barrel is what makes the brake effective. A high pressure round isn't going to need as many holes/slots as a low pressure or low volume round. An example is I have a brake with a ton of holes for my 6.5 Grendel and it's effective. I tried another brake that had larger slots in it. and it hardly did anything. Yet, when I put it on a .308 I have it works very well. Another thing, if you have the ability to address it is cant of the holes. The heavier bullets going down the barrel tend to create a counter-rotational torque. If the holes/slots are angled from 10-30 degrees opposite the direction of twist, it will offset that torque. Another example of this is an Armalite AR-30 I owned in .300 WM. With the brake, I could hold the recoil and twist with thumb pressure. On another rifle with a multi-hole configuration the recoil was damped by about 75% but I could seriously feel the torque as the holes were not offset.
-Some things to think about when getting a brake.0 -
Thanks guys! 0 -
Although it may have nothing to do with the operation of the brake be aware all those gasses go somewhere. The AR 30 was mentioned, I had one in 338 Lapua Magnum & that very efficient brake sent a concussion of hot gas left & right. Pretty much had to have the bench to my left & right vacant - or let them fire off a few rounds so they wouldn't be too PO'd at me. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by dfletcher
Although it may have nothing to do with the operation of the brake be aware all those gasses go somewhere. The AR 30 was mentioned, I had one in 338 Lapua Magnum & that very efficient brake sent a concussion of hot gas left & right. Pretty much had to have the bench to my left & right vacant - or let them fire off a few rounds so they wouldn't be too PO'd at me.
Yeah, but it is a great way to get rid of the gang bangers on the benches next to you.[:D]0 -
quote:Originally posted by dfletcher
Although it may have nothing to do with the operation of the brake be aware all those gasses go somewhere. The AR 30 was mentioned, I had one in 338 Lapua Magnum & that very efficient brake sent a concussion of hot gas left & right. Pretty much had to have the bench to my left & right vacant - or let them fire off a few rounds so they wouldn't be too PO'd at me.
YES IT DID![;)][:D] And, back at me!0 -
1tinman1,
Unless your barrel is already overly long like 26" to 28", adding 2" isn't going to bring on a tragedy. You don't need a 2" brake either. Some of the best brakes are shorter than that. Most brakes are 1-1/2" long with approximately 1/2" to 5/8" of threads which gets subtracted from the length. That leaves you with only and additional 1" to deal with. Not a big deal.
Now, if you insist that the length of the brake will have a significant impact on your rifle handling and you insist on having the barrel cut back, yes it can be done and is done all the time in hundreds of gunsmith shops.
If you need help finding the proper brake, post the rifle, the barrel length and the chamber and I'll be glad to help get you going.
Best.0
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
8 comments