Luger Safety Issue
The Luger in question is a stainless 6" Stoeger - not an "original" but I think what fixes an original will fix this version.
In the rearward (safety on) position the lever has a bit of slop - the safety lever is without tension pressing up against the flat of the upper, loosly rests with the safety in the correct position but the detent on the rear of the lever is not pressed into the indent on the receiver. When the safety is off tension is tight and the lever stays put - but that's not the case when on safe. I know the internals very well and that a pin holds the safety lever in place, two little grooves in the base of the safety lever when it's pinned in place - is there a method for tightening the relationship between the safety lever and the frame? The safety lever itself is tempered and bending (I presume) even slightly is not an option.
I've never seen stainless Stoeger Luger parts for sale, obviously don't want to screw this up. But I figure there has to be a method used to keep the safety lever tight or adjusting.
In the rearward (safety on) position the lever has a bit of slop - the safety lever is without tension pressing up against the flat of the upper, loosly rests with the safety in the correct position but the detent on the rear of the lever is not pressed into the indent on the receiver. When the safety is off tension is tight and the lever stays put - but that's not the case when on safe. I know the internals very well and that a pin holds the safety lever in place, two little grooves in the base of the safety lever when it's pinned in place - is there a method for tightening the relationship between the safety lever and the frame? The safety lever itself is tempered and bending (I presume) even slightly is not an option.
I've never seen stainless Stoeger Luger parts for sale, obviously don't want to screw this up. But I figure there has to be a method used to keep the safety lever tight or adjusting.
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What's keeping the safety lever hard-against the left rear flat of the frame is the relationship of the retaining pin, and the recess in the lever itself. The flat that 'pops up' from the frame to block the firing plunger should be free-floating, and have no 'pre-load' against the safety lever!
I'm afraid you'll have to pull the safety lever, and do a hands-on eyeballing.
Safety lever removal: Field strip. Remove grips. Place the frame in a small vise. Notice the small pin protruding at a 45deg angle on the inside of the frame opposite the safety lever. Drive the pin outwards, in a downward motion, while 'wiggling' the safety lever with your free hand. The pin should have little resistance.
Now, the fun begins..see the two tiny 'flats' on the safety lever? They are what the pin rests in, and the relationship between the two flats on the safety lever, and the geometry of the hole in the frame that the pin sits are the wear points to consider.
If you drive out the pin, and it's damaged, you have a quick fix. Replacement. If you have a 'mashed' flat area on the safety lever, it's gonna need a careful look at by someone, to 'pien' the area to hold better.
With the lever removed, check for pin-to frame fit. Slide the pin in from the bottom, not the top. The pin should slide in snugly, but only need very slight taps of a jewellers' hammer to drive it home.
Actually, I have a bad feeling about this. One of the parts is out of spec. Either the pin (hopefully), or the lever, or [horrors], the hole in the frame. Best I could do. Joe
EDIT
Forgot to mention: the pin works against the round part of the safety lever where it fits into the frame. Check that area on the safety lever as well, as well as the hole in the frame where the safety lever sits for excessive play. You'll know it once you 'feel' the fit. Best again, Joe0 -
Very good description, thank you. I learned how to take apart Lugers when I was a kid - Dad didn't know it, but I used to latch on to his and take it all a part except for the mainspring. One day I didn't slide the top on correctly and was found out ... [:(!]
I've had the part out before - eyeballing to see what the problem may be. I'm hoping it's the pin, it's a cold rolled type and looks like it's been out a few times - buggered edges a bit. Those "flats" or channels look clean, no wear - if anything I've have expected some wear, so that the flats are oversized and could be peened comes to mind.
If the base of the "thumb" safety part of the safety mechanism isn't tempered I'm pretty sure I can peen the side of the channel a bit so that inserting a replacement pin will pull it snug into the frame.
One of my other German pistols is a 7.65 1914 - lever with a button for a safety. There must be a German perspective on safties that is lost on me.
Update: All went well, the pin was flattened on one side a bit, I replaced it and seated the replacement deep. The thumb part had a little bit of "bendability" and after a touch is nice and solid.0
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