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Radom P35 Type III 2 lever Nazi proof Matched S/N

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10 comments

  • rufe-snow
    No opinion about the pistol. Got a question about the C & R shipping. I thought all handguns shipped to cali had to go to a 01 FFL dealer, didn't matter if you had a C & R or not.


    EDIT #1, "Shipping is an issue, because I have a C&R I can use the Post office to ship to CA. Saves alot on shipping.", HORSEPUCKY! You don't have a freeken clue my man. You better get all your ducks in a row, before the JBT's kick in your door at 0500 some dark and stormy morning.


    EDIT #2A, "Any FFL holder, weather it is a C&R, type 01, type 02, 03, or otherwise, can ship handguns thru the USPS, and it does not have to be an antique, by USPS definition, or any other definition. Any indiovidual can ship a long arm thru USPS...I do it all the time."

    EDIT #2B, It's been my understanding that that FFL 03, C & R's, Curio and Relic licensees, couldn't use the USPO to ship handguns. Although other FFL's could. When did this change? What Federal or Post Office reg do we reference if we are challenged on this?
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  • z28barnett
    Please keep the thread on topic and keep opinions on the pistol.

    I have reread the rules at the Post Office website. They have typos in them, so that doesn't help.

    But looks like a C&R handgun would also have to be an antique to be mailable by a C&R holder. By antique - talking cap and ball or earlier or a replica of same. Makes very little sense. Appears to be a PO rule not federal law.

    (c) Each person seeking the privileges of a collector licensed under this part shall file an application, with the required fee (see ?478.42), with ATF in accordance with the instructions on the form (see ?478.44), and pursuant to ?478.47, receive from the Chief, Federal Firearms Licensing Center, the license covering the collection of curios and relics. A separate license may be obtained for each collection premises, and such license shall, subject to the provisions of the Act and other applicable provisions of law, entitle the licensee to transport, ship, receive, and acquire curios and relics in interstate or foreign commerce, and to make disposition of curios and relics in interstate or foreign commerce, to any other person licensed under the provisions of this part, for the period stated on the license.

    The rules at the PO would seem to prevent the use of the rights of a federal license holder.

    I don't know anymore.



    quote:Originally posted by rufe-snow
    No opinion about the pistol. Got a question about the C & R shipping. I thought all handguns shipped to cali had to go to a 01 FFL dealer, didn't matter if you had a C & R or not.
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  • ruger41
    Rufe is correct.. C&R handguns must go to a regular FFL in CA. You also need to talk to the FFL first to see if they will even do it. SOME FFL's in CA charge outrageous fees to do internet transfers. Turners in Pasadena(chain gun store in southern CA) quoted me a fee of $150 on top of the CA DROS fee that they were going to charge my friend who wanted to buy a gun from me. Face to face in the store they only charge the DROS but they stuck it to internet buyers.
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  • Grasshopper
    500 do to mag---imo--
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  • tsr1965
    Yes, your starting price is a little too steep. If you want to see exactly what it is worth, start it low with no reserve, and let a bidding war tell you what it is worth, in today's market.

    As for antique...that means by BATFE definition, made before 1899, and it does not have to be cap and ball or muzzle loader....it can be a cartridge gun.

    Any FFL holder, weather it is a C&R, type 01, type 02, 03, or otherwise, can ship handguns thru the USPS, and it does not have to be an antique, by USPS definition, or any other definition. Any indiovidual can ship a long arm thru USPS...I do it all the time.

    Best
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  • competentone
    That's a late-war production pistol (using the "sheet metal" pins and "fat" grip screws). I'd have some concerns about refinishing -- at least to the frame -- as the serial numbers on the frame look to be sanded after stamping.

    Are there any import markings on the trigger guard or in the grip area (or indications they've been removed)?

    Is the magazine original? Photos of the magazine alone will answer that question for most collectors. Is the spring tension weak on the magazine (causing the feeding problem)? Do you have another magazine to test in the pistol, or are able to test your magazine in another gun (to determine if the problem is with the magazine or gun)?

    Are the grips original or replacement. There are some really good replacements, so it can be hard to tell. You obviously had the pistol partially disassembled (to show the main-spring housing stamped serial number), some pictures of the grips (both sides) -- and frame with the grips off -- would help in determining how original the condition is.

    If the magazine is original and there are no import markings (or evidence they've been removed), you're probably looking at around $450 as the price it will move at.

    For that pistol, I think you're too high with a starting bid of $750.

    Not saying you can't sell it at that price; just saying most collectors of P35 Radoms wouldn't give you that much. (I have about five of them sitting around here right now and have owned a few more over the years; I don't consider myself any "expert," but I do have some experience with them.)
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  • z28barnett
    Nothing has been sanded or refinished, what you see are mill marks typical for this pistol of late WWII mfg.

    Grips appear to be orginal, took them off to remove main spring housing.

    Mag appears to be orginal pined at base. Can not take the follower out like you can on a 1911. Did not try to unpin the mag base and risk damage.

    No removed marks on trigger guard.

    My Dad bought this gun back in the '70's before it was worth enough to do all the faking you might see today.

    Blue book is $700 - so I think you are way off. This gun has almost every S/N matching that is not common on a War time gun, nor mentioned in the blue book.

    Most people would just lie about the mag function. The fact that it doesn't feed when full might explain its capture. Pervious owner might have met an untimely end when he went to use it.

    Magazine spring appears to be too stiff, not allowing top rounds under full spring pressure to feed. Take 3 rounds off the top and everthing works great.

    I have posted the max number of photos GB allows, somebody wants to see an area in detail all they need to do is ask.

    Alan


    quote:Originally posted by competentone
    That's a late-war production pistol (using the "sheet metal" pins and "fat" grip screws). I'd have some concerns about refinishing -- at least to the frame -- as the serial numbers on the frame look to be sanded after stamping.

    Are there any import markings on the trigger guard or in the grip area (or indications they've been removed)?

    Is the magazine original? Photos of the magazine alone will answer that question for most collectors. Is the spring tension weak on the magazine (causing the feeding problem)? Do you have another magazine to test in the pistol, or are able to test your magazine in another gun (to determine if the problem is with the magazine or gun)?

    Are the grips original or replacement. There are some really good replacements, so it can be hard to tell. You obviously had the pistol partially disassembled (to show the main-spring housing stamped serial number), some pictures of the grips (both sides) -- and frame with the grips off -- would help in determining how original the condition is.

    If the magazine is original and there are no import markings (or evidence they've been removed), you're probably looking at around $450 as the price it will move at.

    For that pistol, I think you're too high with a starting bid of $750.

    Not saying you can't sell it at that price; just saying most collectors of P35 Radoms wouldn't give you that much. (I have about five of them sitting around here right now and have owned a few more over the years; I don't consider myself any "expert," but I do have some experience with them.)
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  • tsr1965
    quote:Blue book is $700 - so I think you are way off. This gun has almost every S/N matching that is not common on a War time gun, nor mentioned in the blue book.


    The Blue Book should be used for entertainment purposes only, not defacto appraisal. The book has serious errors, and does not account for the current markets decline, or regional representations.

    "Almost every S/N matching, is not every. At some time it has seen arsenal work, and is not as it was when it came from the factory. High end collectors want EVERY, not ALMOST EVERY, to achieve the price of which you are looking for. You have a 60-70% finish, mis-matched gun at best. But you were honest about it, and that does count for a lot.


    It does not hurt to hang on to it. Sorry, but unfortunately, as Larry Potterfield says, "That's the way it is".

    Best
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  • Grasshopper
    Well, you asked our opinion,,and you don't like it-i could go in more detail but hey, who am I to tell you,,I gave you my opinion and well, thats it-500,,,but I might be high-
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  • competentone
    quote:Originally posted by z28barnett

    Nothing has been sanded or refinished, what you see are mill marks typical for this pistol of late WWII mfg.

    Grips appear to be orginal, took them off to remove main spring housing.

    Mag appears to be orginal pined at base. Can not take the follower out like you can on a 1911. Did not try to unpin the mag base and risk damage.

    No removed marks on trigger guard.

    My Dad bought this gun back in the '70's before it was worth enough to do all the faking you might see today.

    Blue book is $700 - so I think you are way off. This gun has almost every S/N matching that is not common on a War time gun, nor mentioned in the blue book.

    Most people would just lie about the mag function. The fact that it doesn't feed when full might explain its capture. Pervious owner might have met an untimely end when he went to use it.

    Magazine spring appears to be too stiff, not allowing top rounds under full spring pressure to feed. Take 3 rounds off the top and everthing works great.

    I have posted the max number of photos GB allows, somebody wants to see an area in detail all they need to do is ask.

    Alan


    You sound like you are already convinced about the value of what you have -- not sure why you're asking for opinion here.

    In any case:

    The frame's serial number is a stamping that looks to have been finished over -- it is not the sort of marking I've seen on "original" Radoms. No one is suggesting you, or your father, are engaged in any sort of deception; it's just not a clear stamping. There were Radoms imported in the 1970s; these should have importers' marks.

    I haven't found it to be that uncommon for Radoms to be all-matching numbers as the production lifespan was so short most never underwent any "arsenal rebuilding" -- a process that can result in mis-matched parts.

    Your recoil spring might be weak if it cannot strip rounds from a full magazine.

    There are no "limits" on pictures for items listed in the auction; you just have to go back and "edit" a listing to add more than what you can post when first listing an item.

    I'll be happy for you (and me) if you do get $750 for that. Radoms have been something I've been paying attention to for the past 20 years; I just don't see yours going for that price, but I wish you the best. Good luck with the sale.

    Edit to add: The Nazis actually got more aggressive later in the war with stamping serial numbers on the Radom parts -- manufacturing "kits" with all the parts stamped then shipping them to Austria for assembly. They did this more careful stamping -- combined with inventory control -- because they had problems with theft of parts by the Polish Underground to build pistols for the Resistance. So the "matching numbers" is common on a wartime pistol like that one.
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