Question on Forehand & Wadsworth Revolver
Hello!
This picture shows the inner parts from a F&W .38 top-break revolver.I am trying to get this revolver to index and fire correctly. It will cycle and line up very well in double action, but then I have to push the trigger forward to engage the next shot. The hammer will not lock back in single-action unless I very carefully cock it back, and when the trigger is pulled it won't release the hammer all at once, but in a "double-step" if that makes sense.
My questions are: Does the lifter push the bottom of the hinged arm (arrow #1) to cock the hammer? What function does this hinged arm serve? What holds the hammer in the single-action position? What releases the hammer in the SA mode?
This revolver doesn't have a separate trigger return spring. The mainspring serves as the hand, hammer, and trigger spring. It doesn't have a sear for SA.Does anyone have any suggestions on what I need to do before I start whittling on the wrong part?
Thank you!
buttplate
This picture shows the inner parts from a F&W .38 top-break revolver.I am trying to get this revolver to index and fire correctly. It will cycle and line up very well in double action, but then I have to push the trigger forward to engage the next shot. The hammer will not lock back in single-action unless I very carefully cock it back, and when the trigger is pulled it won't release the hammer all at once, but in a "double-step" if that makes sense.
My questions are: Does the lifter push the bottom of the hinged arm (arrow #1) to cock the hammer? What function does this hinged arm serve? What holds the hammer in the single-action position? What releases the hammer in the SA mode?
This revolver doesn't have a separate trigger return spring. The mainspring serves as the hand, hammer, and trigger spring. It doesn't have a sear for SA.Does anyone have any suggestions on what I need to do before I start whittling on the wrong part?
Thank you!
buttplate
0
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The "hinged arm" (1) is the double action strut, and serves no function in single action.
There's a small notch in hammer at point 3 that the trigger point 2 cocks in for single action.
The "double step" problem in single action can happen if the trigger isn't clearing point of the strut when hammer falls.0 -
HRF,
As i've said before, you are a wealth of information and I appreciate your reply. Do you think any of these parts are worn too badly? That small notch in the hammer at point 3 is probably the culprit because it sure doesn't look like it is sharp enough to maintain the hammer in the SA position. Would you shape the trigger point or the hammer notch if it was up to you?
Thanks again!
buttplate0 -
quote:Originally posted by buttplate
That small notch in the hammer at point 3 is probably the culprit because it sure doesn't look like it is sharp enough to maintain the hammer in the SA position. Would you shape the trigger point or the hammer notch if it was up to you?
Not sure what you meant by "hammer will not lock back in single-action unless I very carefully cock it back" but point 2 on trigger might be peened over a bit. Try placing the hammer and trigger on outside of the frame in exact position they are when installed to see how the contact points fit.0 -
The radius from point 3 to the hammer pivot has to be greater than from point 1 in order for the tang, point 2 to clear point 1 when the trigger is pulled or the hammer at point 1 will hang up on the point 2 tang.
The point 2-3 connection is for single action and point 1-2 connection is for double action.
Mount the hammer and trigger without springs on the outside of the gun with their pivot screws and you'll understand the relationships.
The point 3 hammer notch is obviously worn. That's why point 2 trigger tang wont lock it back. if there is a sharp notch in point 3 then the point 2 tang needs squaring up.
When these parts are mounted on the frames' outside, see that when the trigger is pulled JUST enough for point 2 trigger tang to clear the notch, it will also clear the "spring lever" point 1. If not
shim the spring lever in toward point3 on the hammer until it does.
Hopefully, the point 2 will still engage the point 1 on the spring lever. If not you need a little hard weld at point 3 to be filed to suit.
These old inexpensive guns weren't made for much shooting and have soft parts that may or may not have been case hardened.0 -
Gentlemen,
Thank you for your inputs. You were all right on the mark. HRF from a different post had already given me some clues as to what was wrong, and I now have it working correctly. I stoned the notch on the hammer and sharpened the tip on the trigger to correspond, and it locked up nicely in the SA mode. It still double-stepped when I pulled the trigger, so I took a miniscule amount of material off the end of the hammer strut and that was enough to release the hammer correctly.
It's always a learning process with these old revolvers, and I really appreciate the knowledgeable people like you guys on this and other forums.
Thanks again!
buttplate0 -
I've never seen a better descriptive than that which has just been posted by the OP.
What program gets the arrows onto the photo? Thanks, Joe
EDIT
Thanks, Mr. Butt! (Input directly below this post). It means a lot! Best, Joe0 -
Joe,
I use the "paint" program to insert arrows and directions. It helps to define what I'm referring to. It is kind of a fool-proof program for an old fool like me.
buttplate0
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