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Help fixing old Colt Detective Special

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6 comments

  • p3skyking
    I would remove the cylinder and crane as an assembly and soak it overnight in kerosene (or similar) and then have a go at it again.





    You might additionally judiciously apply heat from a propane torch to loosen it.
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  • v35
    If you look at the ejector end you'll note the rod end is staked.
    That has to be overcome in order to unscrew the rod.
    Soak the assembly in Kroil and cycle the ejector rod a bunch.
    it's more likely rust in there.
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  • wag
    I hope you read this before you continue on this direction. The ejector rod does not unscrew from the ejector, the ejector unscrews from the ejector rod. A special tool is used- see Brownells-you could make one if you had one to copy or a good picture of one. First you push the ejector out fully and then put this tool under the ejector between the cylinder and the ejector. The tool , usually two large screw heads apx size of the cartridge cases, locks into the ejector slots and with the cylinder secured you can over cone the stakes to turn the ejector. However I feel all this is not needed. I believe you have powder fowling between the cylinder and the ejector and a good soaking with a light oil -WD 40- would fix this problem. In all cases it is reccomended the cylinder and ejector assembly be seperated from the pistol.
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  • JudgeColt
    STOP! Most likely, there is nothing wrong with your Colt. Colt cylinders do not spin freely like a Smith & Wesson. The design "squeezes" the crane under ejector spring pressure so there is always drag when the cylinder is open. If there is gummy lubricant, it can be quite stiff. The ejector rod cannot be "too tight" because the design does not allow it.

    Use a penetrating oil at the front bearing surface to see if the makes the cylinder rotate easier. If it does, it is gummed up with old lubricant. If so, pull the crane away from the front of the cylinder and put something between the crane and cylinder face to keep the crane away from the cylinder face. Then push the ejector rod to the rear and place something under the extractor to keep it away from the rear cylinder face. This will allow easier penetration of solvent. Soak the whole works in a solvent for a day or so. Then use compressed air to blow the cylinder "dry" and re-lubricate with a quality lubricant.

    At that point, the cylinder should rotate smoothly, but it still will not spin freely.
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  • rhmc24
    Of possible interest, top a tool I made for removing/installing the ejector (star, ratchet). This was for a New Service but the idea is the same. Below is a tool I made for removing the nut-collar surrounding the ejector rod to free the spring.

    1918.jpg
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  • nmyers
    Success! I followed Judge Colt's advice, & that took care of the problem. Thanks to all who replied.

    Neal
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