Glock 45 cal and the Glock 10 mm durability
I'm considering purchasing a glock 45 cal subcompact
and a glock 10 mm full size. I was wondering how
durable a polymer based gun handled high powered
rounds. A friend of mine who has been shooting
for years raised some doubts about the guns longevity.
Looking for your advice on both pieces. Thanks
and a glock 10 mm full size. I was wondering how
durable a polymer based gun handled high powered
rounds. A friend of mine who has been shooting
for years raised some doubts about the guns longevity.
Looking for your advice on both pieces. Thanks
0
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Do a search for GLOCK. the search tab is in the upper right, just to the left of FAQ. the number of Glock topics will keep you reading for a year.
You can shoot a Glock as many rounds as you can ever afford and really not wear it out.
As long as it does not go KABOOM in your hand or you shoot yourself because the infernal contraptions lack a REAL safety you will be fine. [;)]
I have tens of thousands of rounds through my G21 and it still keeps going bang.0 -
It wont go Kaboom if you use the original barrel and only use jacketed bullets. Use original barrel and lead bullets...KaBOOM. I believe Gen 4 corrects that also, but Glock tells you dont shoot lead, so I wouldnt!
If you want to shoot lead bullets, get a wolf or others after market barrel. As far has the frame goes....nothing wrong with them after Gen 2. A few early Gen 1 had/haveing troubles due to age and being the first ever plastic guns....but long solved now. Will last longer than you, provided you dont beat the pistol with a hammer or use it as a pry bar. The rumor that it cant take the heat of a glove box of a truck in the sun is false also.....they can take more heat then they ever see in day to day life, in any condition.
The whole safety thing is old.....they are safe, just keep your finger off the trigger until ready to shoot!! Simple. You can chamber a round and throw, drop, slam, kick, pitch, or run over with a tank and it WILL NOT FIRE. Pull the trigger and it will, like it should.
Glocks are a tool, nothing fancy, no frills, but always works and are cheap. 1911's are sexy and in fashion right now. Nothing wrong with either, and I have both.0 -
Here's the original Glock 21 torture test:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_5_4/13658_.html&page=1
It's been burried in multiple different media's, dropped from an airplane, run over with a truck, dragged behind a truck, shot with a 22, etc etc and keeps on working.0 -
AT 23,000 PSI, I don't think the 45ACP is considered a high pressure round.
I have a Glock 20C and I haven't seen any problems shooting 10mm. I also use it to shoot 40S&W, 357Sig, and plan on getting a 9x25 barrel soon. They all use the same magazine.
I messed up, I should have looked at the short frame first because I find the 20C I have it a little too large for my hands but I couldn't beat the price and I needed (wanted) a gun where I wouldn't feel too undergunned for bear.
I don't think you should have any problems with durability in the 10mm and definitely not in the 45ACP.0 -
I have 3 Glock pistols. They are the Model 19, Model 20(original first ones out, not sure what generation that was), and a Model 29. The 29, is a handful, when shooting loads considered to be what the 10mm was designed for. It shoots well though, for those who wish to practice their control of it. I have 7-8K rounds thru it.
The Model 20, is one of the most accurate pistols in that chambering I own. I have around 15,000 rounds thru it, and it shows no signs of quitting.
The Model 19, is a 3rd generation, and I have around 6-7K rounds thru it. It is accurate enough for me to put one between the eyes of a Coyote at 35 yards, and it is the utmost in reliability.
It is hard to go wrong with a Glock. If you are looking for a reliable, compact 45, that you can actually hit things with, their Model 36 is it.
One last note, just so you know, the 10mm, is twice the power of a 45, when loaded to its potential, the way it was designed to be. So, you should have no problems, with a 45 in the Glock polymer frames.
Best
EDIT 1
quote:quote:Originally posted by the middle
quote:Originally posted by the yooper
I've got the G20 and I can vouch first hand for its strength. I'm not going into details, but I loaded some ammo in which I mis-read the increments on a new powder scale. The result was a powder overload. I fired 3 rounds and noticed a REALLY HEAVY recoil, much more than normal. I unloaded the pistol and checked the fired brass and it was bulged at the rear of the case. Let me admit that it was a pretty heavy charge, but there was NO kaboom. It really bothers me when I hear stories like "I heard somebody had a Glock blow up" or "My brother in law told me ....". My first hand experience made a believer of me as to the strength of both modern brass and the Glock design and quality, and it made me MUCH more careful during reloading. I've been loading for 60+ years and should have known better but likely got complacent rather than double-checking my settings.
yooper
The Glock KaBooms had more to do with folks shooting unjacketed lead bullets. The polygonal rifling or a factory Glock barrel was not designed to use lead, and it built up until the pressure skyrocketed and KaBOOM! Another factor in the early generations was a larger amount of unsupported area in the chamber....which was done to ensure function. Hot loads tended to bulge the case...a lot. Guys reloading these cases made then even weaker yet, till again KaBOOM! Gen 4 Glocks dont have this problem anymore...the chamber is a lot tighter now.
So the problem with Glock KaBOOMs was never the pistols fault...people where shooting things they were not supposed to. Glock tells you NO LEAD, Glock tells you NO RELOADS. If you use factory ammo in Glocks you will never have a problem. I run reloads in mine, but I never go "hot"...at least with used brass, new brass I will....ONCE.....second reload is tamer.
Thats being said, I will without any doubt, second thoughts, ETC trust my life with a Glock....they just work. Your basic, no frills tool, not sexy, not pretty, not expensive, but has it all where it counts!!
I have tried to stress that point here on the forums before, not to buy something lesser than what you wish you had, then try to make up for it with rocks & dynamite loads(including Buffalo Bore, and Double Tap). Yes, a 38 Special +P(just using for an example) might be able to handle the pressures, but it will cause more wear and tear on the gun.
Glock's, like any autoloader, contain the pressure within the barrel and slide. With a catostraphic failure, it can vent down thru the frame, and grip area. Glocks are as safe and strong as anyother polymer, or steel framed gun.
Best0 -
quote:Originally posted by the middle
and being the first ever plastic guns.....
Not quite. H&k beat them to the market with a polymer wonder nine by 12 years. They weren't the first. Perhaps the second, I couldn't say for sure, but definitely not the first.0 -
Thank you all for your input. Time to
move forward....0 -
Glock 30sf is hard to beat and a keeper 0 -
quote:Originally posted by KEVD18
quote:Originally posted by the middle
and being the first ever plastic guns.....
Not quite. H&k beat them to the market with a polymer wonder nine by 12 years.HK introduced polymer framed handguns to the world over 40 years ago.
Contrary to what many these days seem to realize, the only true 'invention' that Glock handguns brought to the table was that semi-cocked striker type mechanism of their's.
Everything from their barrel locking design to their frame material to that little lever on the trigger face to that finish applied to the slide had been around for a long time.
The design is good, but it's marketing is outstanding.0 -
I've got the G20 and I can vouch first hand for its strength. I'm not going into details, but I loaded some ammo in which I mis-read the increments on a new powder scale. The result was a powder overload. I fired 3 rounds and noticed a REALLY HEAVY recoil, much more than normal. I unloaded the pistol and checked the fired brass and it was bulged at the rear of the case. Let me admit that it was a pretty heavy charge, but there was NO kaboom. It really bothers me when I hear stories like "I heard somebody had a Glock blow up" or "My brother in law told me ....". My first hand experience made a believer of me as to the strength of both modern brass and the Glock design and quality, and it made me MUCH more careful during reloading. I've been loading for 60+ years and should have known better but likely got complacent rather than double-checking my settings.
yooper0 -
quote:Originally posted by the yooper
I've got the G20 and I can vouch first hand for its strength. I'm not going into details, but I loaded some ammo in which I mis-read the increments on a new powder scale. The result was a powder overload. I fired 3 rounds and noticed a REALLY HEAVY recoil, much more than normal. I unloaded the pistol and checked the fired brass and it was bulged at the rear of the case. Let me admit that it was a pretty heavy charge, but there was NO kaboom. It really bothers me when I hear stories like "I heard somebody had a Glock blow up" or "My brother in law told me ....". My first hand experience made a believer of me as to the strength of both modern brass and the Glock design and quality, and it made me MUCH more careful during reloading. I've been loading for 60+ years and should have known better but likely got complacent rather than double-checking my settings.
yooper
The Glock KaBooms had more to do with folks shooting unjacketed lead bullets. The polygonal rifling or a factory Glock barrel was not designed to use lead, and it built up until the pressure skyrocketed and KaBOOM! Another factor in the early generations was a larger amount of unsupported area in the chamber....which was done to ensure function. Hot loads tended to bulge the case...a lot. Guys reloading these cases made then even weaker yet, till again KaBOOM! Gen 4 Glocks dont have this problem anymore...the chamber is a lot tighter now.
So the problem with Glock KaBOOMs was never the pistols fault...people where shooting things they were not supposed to. Glock tells you NO LEAD, Glock tells you NO RELOADS. If you use factory ammo in Glocks you will never have a problem. I run reloads in mine, but I never go "hot"...at least with used brass, new brass I will....ONCE.....second reload is tamer.
Thats being said, I will without any doubt, second thoughts, ETC trust my life with a Glock....they just work. Your basic, no frills tool, not sexy, not pretty, not expensive, but has it all where it counts!!0
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