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Heritage Rough Rider...

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5 comments

  • Mobuck
    Hello Bob,
    I've handled the Heritage revolvers and honestly, they feel pretty good. Considering the price, I would be very likely to buy one for trapping use if I didn't already have a cheap pistol for that duty.
    Add in some can blasting and it's hard to turn one down. The kicker is longevity of the innards. I've seen a couple of off brand 22 single actions that only lasted 500-1K rounds before exhibiting lockwork problems.
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  • Rack Ops
    The hammer does work.

    I've got a HRR, and I can't tell you how many times I've went to fire it and dropped the hammer with the safety still on. Now I pretty much just leave it off all the time. If I remember correctly, the hammer will fall just past the quarter-cock position.



    Fun little guns for the money.
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  • beantownshootah
    I believe the doodad in question is a functional safety.

    How badly one "needs" a safety on a modern single-action revolver is debatable.

    IMO, the "safety" on an SA wheelgun is the HAMMER. When its not cocked, its safe. When it is cocked, its the same as any other SA gun with the safety off (eg any other revolver, a 1911, etc).

    Personally having an external safety on a wheelgun seems not only redundant, but also counterproductive. Its just a recipe for hearing a "click" when you want a "bang".

    I'm sure lawyering and legal requirements were a factor here, but for what its worth, Heritage revolvers aren't MA-state compliant, so its not like putting in this safety helped there! (The MA State gun market is pretty small anyway). The revolvers that ARE MA-state compliant (which include Smiths and I believe Rugers) do NOT have external safeties, though all of them have features to make them drop-discharge resistant.

    Personally, unless I got a VERY attractive price (ie under $100) to use it for a "backpack" gun. I'd pass on this. I'd rather pay twice the price for a Ruger, which I know will last forever and have better retail value.
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  • tsr1965
    Yes, that in indeed a hammer block. As to how safe it is, is in the hands of the beholder. They make new and improved idiots every day. I think the only way to truly prevent the hammer from striking, is with a transfer bar system, where the hammer will not even reach the firing pin, and a transfer bar is needed to bridge that distance. But then again, a lot of sensable folks still carry the old SAA's, and old model Ruger's, with the hammer down on an empty chamber.

    Personally, with the quality of these, not being quite what a RUGER or S&W is, I would refrain from buying one, just because the price is right, and the seller assured me it would go bang.

    I will side with Beantown, and say the S&W, and Ruger's are the way to go...and perhaps the new Charter Arms. The S&W of older manufacture, are screaming upwards in value. In my guestimation, you will never see this with a HRR...just another advantage.

    Hope this sets your wheels spinning.

    Best
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  • TRAP55
    I picked one up in a trade a couple of years ago with the .22LR cyl. and the .22mag cyl. It isn't a Ruger, but for what they sell for, it's a good buy. I've let the boys take it out and torture test it, and they haven't managed to break it yet, and it still hits what you aim it at.
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