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removing filler screw - help!

llama
OK... got a scope mount for my Mossy 44us ... receiver was D&T'd at factory many moons ago, and has filler screws in the holes.

Screw #1 came out just fine... Screw #2 not so much. And now, the "head" (it ain't got one, its a filler screw) is a tad buggered up, and I don't want to screw it up any more than it is before I get it out.

Screw doesn't go flush on the inside, so I've had the rifle tilted on its side since last night with a little bit of penetrating oil trying to soak in from the inside side...

Suggestions?
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Comments

6 comments

Date Votes
  • lkannes
    Center punch and a left handed drill bit.
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  • charliemeyer007
    You might try and thermal shock the screw by holding a section of coat hanger in a flame to red heat then putting the hanger on the screw head. Re p-oil and let cool. If you have a small watch makers screwdriver straight bit you can try and bite into the screw towards the end of what remains of the slot and tap gently in the unscrewing direction at an angle. A good hat pin can work.

    If it's rusted in bad or Bubba used his special LOCKTIGHT you need to have a jig to drill it out and chase the threads.
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  • Txs
    If there's much of a slot left on that screw head at all, before resorting to any sort of extremes you could try the simple anti-slip method for gun screws.

    Chuck a proper size screw bit in a drill press and clamp the receiver down using wood pieces to protect the finish. Apply downward pressure with the press as you turn the chuck manually.

    Placing a screwdriver in the screw's slot and giving it a tap or two with a light hammer before using the press may also help.
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  • navc130
    If you do not have them, you need parallel-side Gunsmith Screwdrivers to properly work on firearms. Either buy a set, grind your own or use parallel-side bits. Reform the screw head to provide as much gripping area as possible. Use a screwdriver blade that fits the slot very tight, both length and width. If necessary, follow other suggestions: tapping, heat and high torque.
    Last resort, drill it out using progressively larger drill bits until you can pick the threads out. Even if you damage some threads it will still hold a screw OK.
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  • tsr1965
    From what I understand, the head is too tore up, and too deep, to think about reforming the head? If so, it is time to break out the dremel, burnz-o-matic propane torch, penetrating oil, and the easy out.

    I use a dremel, and a very tiny drill, to start a center hole in the plug screw, then enlarge it enough for the easy-out. take your time...nothing worse than a broken screw extractor.

    Best
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  • asphalt cowboy
    Try Txs drill press suggestion first. It'll work just like a screw jack. For a little more bite with the screw driver bit use a dab of valve grinding compound on the end of the bit.
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