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Removing Loctited Leupold Rings and Mount

Comments

10 comments

  • BHAVIN
    A little heat and taping the Allen wrench while in the screw may help. Must be fairly old ones if they aren't Torx.

    I would try the tapping first you may not need the heat.
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  • Ray Boone
    I would remove the scope and bolt, and the action/barrel from the stock. Invert and place in a shallow container that you can toss when through. Ideally the bases should be very close to the bottom of the container. Then spray the screw holes holding the bases from the inside of the action. I've found Hoppes Blast dissolves most anything while not damaging the metal. Not knowing what may have been used to secure the screws complicates it a bit- it may have been nail polish, in which an acetone base solvent will loosen it. But you can try various dissolving agents- Everclear (95% grain alcohol) works well on somethings (if you can get it in your state) or petroleum based solvents- you may want to let the action soak in the selected solvent for a few hours & this is best done outside with open air. About the only real problem will be if the previous owner decided to make the mount permanent by coating the screws with a "rusting" agent, so that when screwed in tight the screw would rust to the action. If this is the case about the only thing to do is take it to a machine shop where they can accurately drill out the screws with minimal contact with the action, then rethread the action for the bases.
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  • rufe-snow
    My understand is that putting locktighted parts,(barreled action, less bolt), in a freezer overnight causes the epoxy in the locktight to fail/degrade. Unfortunately this might or might not cause problems with the scope internally?
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  • Grasshopper
    Good luck---I have had a screw set drilled out because nothing worked--maybe you will have better results/
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  • Mobuck
    I've used a soldering iron held against the screw head to soften old loktite successfully. Highly unlikely that anything that won't damage something in/on the scope will penetrate to break the bond.
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  • bartman45
    I've had good luck removing thread locked items by heating the screwdriver; however, only color product I've used is the blue. May be some lockers that will need heat to allow removal.
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  • Jim Rehm
    Rather than using a standard allen wrench,get a 1/4" insert bit of the correct size. This will allow you to use much more downward pressure on the screw to avoid camming the wrench out of the socket and distorting the hole. If you have a drill press and drill press vice available put the bit in the chuck and bring the quill down and lock it and then use the headstock pulley to turn the spindle. As mentioned using a soldering iron to concentrate heat on the screw head will also help. If you want to sacrifice a screwdriver bit, heat a bit red hot and put it into the socket and let the heat transfer and then apply the good bit and attempt to turn the screw.
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  • montanajoe
    • Community moderator
    this may be helpful,,,
    http://forums.gunbroker.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=427515
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  • tjh1948
    Loctite makes an aersol product, Freeze & Release, that may help.
    It is an industrial product that usually can be obtained at Automotive stores and Graingers. Loctite advertises it for frozen bolts & nuts that are corroded, but it will work for some screws that have been loctited.
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  • charliemeyer007
    If it's loctite heat should do the job. Methy Ethyl Ketone Peroxide (MEK) is a way better solvent than just acetone, be aware of the MSDS. There are other things that Bubba could have used that will require way harder methods to seperate the parts.
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