Modifying a 10/22; where to start?
I'm not talking about barrels and stocks, but mag release, bolt release, extractr; what order do you do these mods?
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Bill Jordan,
I have started your question over since competing websites or forums are not a part of the recommendations allowed by the Posting Guidelines.
Our members were not even given a fair shot at trying to answer the question before you were directed away.
While you're waiting for some responses, it might help to use the 'search' feature to locate the dozens of threads about the 10/22.
Best.0 -
Auto bolt release first - takes 5 minutes, 10 if you have to find your tool first...
Mag release is personal preference, I like the lever style by KIDD but there are a few other makers or you could make your own using a long handled spoon if you are a McBendy.
Then start on the accuracy stuff - trigger job, trim & recrown the barrel (or replace it), set the barrel back a hair and rechamber, etc.0 -
IMO two absolutely best mods for the 10-22 are the following:
1. Trigger job.
Drop in Power custom brand hammer/sear/overtravel adjustable sear costs about $75, and will give you a crisp 3.5lb trigger with no overtravel. There are cheaper ways to go (like honing the sear, etc). . .but this way requires no special tools and can be done yourself easily at home in under an hour, and IMO is worth every penny.
2. Buffer.
Costs $10 (or less), and really does reduce the metal on metal "clang" with each shot. So you have a quieter shot cycle and less felt recoil (making it a bit easier to spot your hits through your own scope). This is also a pretty quick mod to do.
People do put in bolt holdbacks, and these parts are cheap and easy to install, but eh. . .I don't see the big deal either way. I've spend several hundred bucks on mods for my gun, have actually bought this part, but still haven't put one of these in my gun. Don't really care.
Extended mag release lever isn't a bad idea, though, since depressing the stock mag release can be a bit annoying. Of the mods you mentioned, I'd do that one first.
Improved extractor? I'd do that in a heartbeat *IF* I had extraction problems. Some do. . .some don't. This can be ammo dependent, too. But since I don't seem to, again, eh. . .0 -
For most bang (pun not intended) for the buck, I would first work on the trigger. There are many that are modular that just drop in. 0 -
Bill,
One stop shopping cures it all, and that is the new trigger group by Timney. Comes with a real decent trigger, and a real functional magazine release. All you have to do, it pull your barreled action from the stock, push two pins out, and put the new trigger group in, and replace the pins, and stock.
Here is a link to it:
http://timneytriggers.com/index.php?option=com_wrapper&view=wrapper&Itemid=78
I didn't see any on the auction side, but they are available at places like Brownells, Midway, and other places. I have two of them, one is the first type, that replaces the trigger, and hammer in your trigger group. The second is like the one in the link. They are both awesome.
Best
EDIT 1
quote:That looks fawesome but at $225+, it literally costs as much as a whole new rifle!
That should tell you about the quality of it, versus Ruger's whole rifle. To be honest with you, I have been buying those AMT 25/22's when ever I can find them...other than the stock, NO PLASTIC OR ALUMINUM!...untill I put that trigger group in.
rsnyder55,
I can tell you have never owned, or tried a rifle made by Cooper. They are a thing of beauty, and are real great shooter's too. Their actions are basically blueprinted at the shop.
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Thanks NONONSENSE and others; I was hoping for some better responses than "go away"!!!! 0 -
quote:Originally posted by tsr1965
One stop shopping cures it all, and that is the new trigger group by Timney. Comes with a real decent trigger, and a real functional magazine release. All you have to do, it pull your barreled action from the stock, push two pins out, and put the new trigger group in, and replace the pins, and stock.
That looks fawesome but at $225+, it literally costs as much as a whole new rifle! I don't think the price is "crazy" for what you get, but I think you can get the same results spending less if you're willing to do what amounts to minimal installation work yourself.
For what its worth, even a nice extended billet aluminum mag release can be had for about $35. You can get a good one for $20, and a perfectly functional plastic one for under $10.
Bolt releases are $10, even the Volquartson version. You probably can pay more than that. . .though I don't see a good reason to. IMO using titanium here is just silly.
"Match grade" extractor is $12. Again, you probably "can" pay more for one (yes, again with the titanium). . .though I doubt there is any benefit to doing so.
Aftermarket triggers vary in price. If you want just the Timney trigger with no other doodads, its about $150. You can go to nearly $300 for the drop in Kidd fully adjustable match grade two stage trigger, and hey. . .they even throw in a bolt release and extended mag release "free"!
The reason I mentioned the "Power Custom" one, is because I saw it recommended at one of the rimfire boards as best in terms of bang/buck for these drop in trigger jobs, and I actually bought it.
I haven't "Pepsi challenged" it against the $200(+) drop in match assemblies, but it *IS* quite good, and I'd bet it probably IS as good as some of these drop in assemblies at a fraction of the cost.
Volquartson replacement trigger with overtravel screw is $23 by itself.0 -
I just installed a Timney for $180, a new heavy barrel and new stock for $100 combined, and a bolt buffer for $8.00. Total cost is $288.00. Results. 1/2" groups at 50 yds and I think I can do better when I get some better glass on it. 0 -
Get a yellow jacket buffer and a volquartsen extractor. 0 -
Only .22 I know you buy for $200 and put then put in $600 in up-grades. And still have an ugly .22. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by He Dog
Only .22 I know you buy for $200 and put then put in $600 in up-grades. And still have an ugly .22.
FWIW, bought my rifle used at a pawn shop for $150.
Aftermarket fluted blackened stainless bull match barrel was $120.
Nice raised cheekrest laminate stock was $100. $80 (just checked my records)
Trigger kit was $75.
Buffer was $8.
For $433, I have a great-looking semi-auto .22 that fits me like a glove, has a crisp 2.5 lb trigger with no aftertravel, and will keep all the shots on a nickel at 50 yards.
Needless to say, I'm quite happy with it.
If I could buy a gun like that for less money, I would have done so. . .but I can't.
Edit: This is the stock I picked:
http://www.boydsgunstocks.com/RT-RUG-10-22-920-BC-STK-NL-F-p/500-420.htm
I really like it, but if I had to do it again, I think I'd pick a different stock, and that's for one reason only. This particular stock is right-handed only, and since I also use this rifle for instruction, having an ambidextrous stock might be more useful for lefties.0
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