Small Pistol / Small Rifle Primer
I know - I know , primers are named for where they are to be used, but I didn't do that.
I've been rolling my own for over 30 years and I've never crossed a line.....really haven't, uh , until now.
My wife has not shot her pistol in quite a while, and I wanted her to keep the mechanics, muscle memory, etc. somewhat fresh..
SO , I loaded some 38 SPL Rubber Bullets (primer only for power).
And in this fine time of waiting for backorders and all, I used a CCI Small Rifle primer instead of the small pistol primer.
AS IT WORKED OUT...the primers backed out just enough to drag against the frame, and of course the casing did not back out to press them flush again. This dragging is of course a problem for proper DA revolver operation. SO, other than doing it right, does anyone have a suggestion.....other than ragging on me for crossing the line.
Thanks Guy's ... I await your suggestions, and of course my backorders.
Thanks all - I took your suggestions and it works fine.
I've been rolling my own for over 30 years and I've never crossed a line.....really haven't, uh , until now.
My wife has not shot her pistol in quite a while, and I wanted her to keep the mechanics, muscle memory, etc. somewhat fresh..
SO , I loaded some 38 SPL Rubber Bullets (primer only for power).
And in this fine time of waiting for backorders and all, I used a CCI Small Rifle primer instead of the small pistol primer.
AS IT WORKED OUT...the primers backed out just enough to drag against the frame, and of course the casing did not back out to press them flush again. This dragging is of course a problem for proper DA revolver operation. SO, other than doing it right, does anyone have a suggestion.....other than ragging on me for crossing the line.
Thanks Guy's ... I await your suggestions, and of course my backorders.
Thanks all - I took your suggestions and it works fine.
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I shoot some plastic bullet loads- primer only. Primers WILL back out, and there is no case setback to reseat them. The cure the maker of Speer plastic bullets has is to open up the flash holes in those cases with a drill- and mark the cases so they never get reloaded with powder and ball. Mine have two small Vs cut into the case head, and the head marked with a red Sharpie. Cannot recall size of the redrilled hole, but bet it is on the Speer site somewhere. This was for .45ACP.
PS- get a box of the Speer 38 plastic target loads. Red plastic case, black plastic bullet- snaps together, primer only, box of crumpled newspapers for backstop.
http://www.speer-bullets.com/products/components/plastic_training_bullets.aspx0 -
Primers will back out when shooting rubber bullets with either primer. The way to stop this is to drill out the primer pockets slightly. YOU NEED TO MARK THESE AND NEVER USE THEM FOR REAL AMMO AGAIN. I color them red with a sharpie.
We use a 1/8" drill bit. This will keep the primers from backing out and give the rubber bullets a little more umph...
11b6r must be a very smart person since we agree!!!!0 -
quote:Originally posted by 11b6r
I shoot some plastic bullet loads- primer only. Primers WILL back out, and there is no case setback to reseat them. The cure the maker of Speer plastic bullets has is to open up the flash holes in those cases with a drill- and mark the cases so they never get reloaded with powder and ball. Mine have two small Vs cut into the case head, and the head marked with a red Sharpie. Cannot recall size of the redrilled hole, but bet it is on the Speer site somewhere. This was for .45ACP.
PS- get a box of the Speer 38 plastic target loads. Red plastic case, black plastic bullet- snaps together, primer only, box of crumpled newspapers for backstop.
http://www.speer-bullets.com/products/components/plastic_training_bullets.aspx
Used these as well but just used some bath towels as a back stop. Wasn't quite so lucky when using the wax bullets in the .41 mag. There is no plastic bullets for the .41. Well anyway using the wax bullets in the .41 mag caused them to shoot right through those bath towels and clean into the side of the closet door.[:(][:(]0 -
My model 60 S&W would not always set off small rifle primers. The addition of a washer shim on the hammer spring solved that problem. The K 38 has never had an issue and there is data for the 22 Jet using small rifle mag primers.
+1 for the speer plastic stuff. Wax is ok for no backstop outside uses.
For primer pocket altered cases I file a nice notch in the rim with a triangler needle file so don't try and use them again as a regular case.0 -
I've used large pistol and large rifle primers both, in my M29 S&W .44 Mag and in my 1911 .45 ACP with no discernible difference in performance. Some people believe that rifle primers have harder bodies than the pistol primers, but honestly, I cannot tell the difference. YMMV.
Just to have more confidence in your loads, I recommend you use the recommended primer. But, in a pinch, if you run out of one type and need to reload right now, go ahead and try the others you can prime up a small number of cases without powder or bullet and cycle them manually through your gun. If they all go bang when the firing pin hits, by all means go ahead and finish your reloading with those until you get a resupply of the right ones. [:D]0 -
quote:Originally posted by 11b6r
I shoot some plastic bullet loads- primer only. Primers WILL back out, and there is no case setback to reseat them. The cure the maker of Speer plastic bullets has is to open up the flash holes in those cases with a drill- and mark the cases so they never get reloaded with powder and ball. Mine have two small Vs cut into the case head, and the head marked with a red Sharpie. Cannot recall size of the redrilled hole, but bet it is on the Speer site somewhere. This was for .45ACP.
PS- get a box of the Speer 38 plastic target loads. Red plastic case, black plastic bullet- snaps together, primer only, box of crumpled newspapers for backstop.
http://www.speer-bullets.com/products/components/plastic_training_bullets.aspx
I use the Speer Plastic cases and bullets. They work as said. I use a heavy towel for a backstop in the basement.0 -
I use small rifle primers in my 357. No problems. 0 -
Moderators,
This should be reverted to the reloading forum. I am sure there are more folks that would like to post.
For the primer powered only loads, it is safe to use either rifle or pistol primer's. As has been described, the flash hole, not the primer pocket will need to be reamed to prevent primer setback. the cases should be clearly, and permanantly marked so they do not get loaded for live powder, and bullet ammunition.
For those who say you can interchange the rifle and pistol primer's at will, you ned to qualify your statement, that the load should be reduced, and then worked back up again. I would not suggest ANY type of pistol primer in the 357 Maximum, 375 Super Mag, 445 Super Mag, 454 Casull, 460 S&W, or 500 S&W. I do not condone using pistol primer's in rifle cartridges either. That is a recipe for disaster. Ill advice in this arena, can get someone seriously injured or worse.
Best
EDIT 1
andrewsw16,
Considering that the bullet, and powder manufacturer's compile their data, in a test lab, where they have, and USE very sophisticated equipment, to acquire this data, why would one not use it? Are you saying that you know more than the folks that compile this data, and make the products?
I have several different manuals, from several manufacturer's. They list a recipe, case, primer, powder charge. They also state that if you change ANY component, to drop your charge by 5-10%, and work back up your load. This statement is in every single one of those manual's. Do you have information these folks, that spend millions on test equipment, and ranges, don't have?...I didn't think so.
Further more, the pistol primer's do have a softer/thinner primer cup, in most cases. I have seen blown primer's from loads worked up in the Winter, and shot on a hot humid, 90 degree Summer day, from a 300 Winchester Magnum. A dose of hot gas in the face is never fun. BTW, those loads had Magnum Rifle Primer's in...now why would you want to use a pistol primer, when you know the pressure's are going to be greater than the maximum operating pressure of most magnum handgun's? I believe common sense has some play here...providing one has been provided with some.
Best0 -
quote:Originally posted by tsr1965
I do not condone using pistol primer's in rifle cartridges either. That is a recipe for disaster. Ill advice in this arena, can get someone seriously injured or worse.
Best
Interesting claim. Can you cite any actual cases? As was mentioned above, many reloaders use them interchangably with no harm. I've never seen any actual cases where harm to the shooter or damage to the gun occured. I am open to change my mind if I can find any real facts. [:)]
Perhaps relocation to the reloading forum would be appropriate so that others can join in and support or refute the danger claims.0 -
Seems like we've wandered into "two issue" territory;
i.e. primers in wax or rubber bullet loads and those used for standard reloading.
Bottom line, IMHO,
Either will back out with rubber bullets IF primer pockets aren't enlarged. (I always did mine to 1/8"), and,
Some handguns won't ignite rifle primers though most will. Performance may not be optimum, but I've not heard of any dire consequences.
(Many of us, (I think Meacham was the first to popularize the practice) use pistol primers in our .22 Hornets. That and some Lil'Gun makes for an awesome combination, but that's another story.0
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