Removing Flecking From a Blued Surface
I recently bought a Winchester Model 50 with a blued steel receiver that's in superb condition except for some slight flecking just behind the ejection port. The flecks are not deep--they look like miniscule snowflakes--but they are there. I've seen quite a few Model 50s with this problem, which I suspect is due to powder or gas residue left on the suface after firing.
Is there a way to minimize the appearance of this flecking or Raymond rust from taking hold without damaging the bluing or having to reblue the entire receiver? I've heard it can be done by lightly rubbing the flecks with fine steel wool and motor oil, but I hesitate to jump right in without some sort of confirmation. Any thoughts or recommendations? Thanks.
Is there a way to minimize the appearance of this flecking or Raymond rust from taking hold without damaging the bluing or having to reblue the entire receiver? I've heard it can be done by lightly rubbing the flecks with fine steel wool and motor oil, but I hesitate to jump right in without some sort of confirmation. Any thoughts or recommendations? Thanks.
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Just to be clear, I've read many of the posts on this site about "rust" removal. I suspect "flecking" is nothing more than minor rust. However, the spots of flecking are very small and I'm just wondering if there's a different, less destructive method for dealing with minor flecking than major rust? 0 -
Other people will respond, but I like Kroil and aluminum wool. Let it sit for a bit with the Kroil on the rusted area and then rub gently with the wool 0 -
Never, use steel wool on blue.
Coat the freckled area with Kroil and let it ruminate on its own over night. Follow that up by scrubbing the bejeebers out of it with a swatch of burlap.
Burlap is course and stiff enough to get down into the tiny rust pits. Being a natural fiber it isn't abrasive to the blue.0 -
UNLESS THERE IS A 'BUILD-UP' OF POWDER ON THE SURFACE MOST 'FLECKING' IS BLUEING THAT IS NO LONGER THERE. IT CAN NOT BE REPLACED OR REMOVED WITH OUT A COMPLETE REBLUEING. 0 -
Kroil+ burlap= good. As he said, bluing went away. After cleaning it up with Kroil and burlap, you can try a drop of cold blue on the freckle after degreasing the surface and warming it with a hair dryer. Will not be perfect. May be less noticeable.
FWIW, I never use steel wool unless all the blue is gonna be taken off. Most abrasive thing I use is a Chore Boy copper pot scrubber wetted with light oil or Kroil.0 -
Steel wool is used as part of the rust bluing process. Used properly, it won't hurt bluing. 0 -
Rust Bluing does use steel wool However Rust bluing is a dull finish and done in many coats Hot blue is different DO NOT use steel wool. Your model 50 is NOT RUST BLUED 0 -
quote:Originally posted by MIKE WISKEY
UNLESS THERE IS A 'BUILD-UP' OF POWDER ON THE SURFACE MOST 'FLECKING' IS BLUEING THAT IS NO LONGER THERE. IT CAN NOT BE REPLACED OR REMOVED WITH OUT A COMPLETE REBLUEING.
Right, most "FLECKING is blueing that is gone, gone. You should be able to determine such with a magnafying glass looking for cratering or pin holes.
I have some factory blued stainless steel barrels on some Remington rifles and they are flecked, blue flecked off and can see the stainless freckles as you describe, looks like the bluing was paint and small chips come out! Mostly at the breech end randlmly around the barrel where heat from firing seem to have some effect, maybe.0 -
Try a light polish with flitz. Your specs are most likely chips in the bluing which you can touch up with a bluing pen or a permenant black magic marker. 0 -
I have used steel wool and oil to remove surface rust on blued guns. Bubba could ruin an anvil with a rubber mallet. I think those flecks are there. 0
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