corrosive ammo and carb choke cleaner
Been shooting the old Mosin M44 a lot and realized I need to clean it.
I don't worry very much at all about the corrosive primers since where I live it's VERY dry, like near zero humidity dry, so the potassium salts don't have much moisture to attract in the first place.
Nevertheless, figured it couldn't hurt to clean it.
Would carb/choke cleaner be a good way to get the salts and deposits out? I know about the commercial cleaners and the ammonia water solution, but I'm thinking: what's the worst that could happen? If it's good enough to clean industrial components of all the grime and deposits, it should be good enough to get rid of a little potassium residue.
I don't worry very much at all about the corrosive primers since where I live it's VERY dry, like near zero humidity dry, so the potassium salts don't have much moisture to attract in the first place.
Nevertheless, figured it couldn't hurt to clean it.
Would carb/choke cleaner be a good way to get the salts and deposits out? I know about the commercial cleaners and the ammonia water solution, but I'm thinking: what's the worst that could happen? If it's good enough to clean industrial components of all the grime and deposits, it should be good enough to get rid of a little potassium residue.
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You need water or a water based cleaner to remove the deposits. Chemicals like those found in commercial carburetor cleaners or petroleum based solvents will remove grease, grime and dirt but won't do a thing for corrosive primers. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by mark christian
You need water or a water based cleaner to remove the deposits. Chemicals like those found in commercial carburetor cleaners or petroleum based solvents will remove grease, grime and dirt but won't do a thing for corrosive primers.
Interesting and duly noted.
so the ammonia and water mix is the easy and cheap way to go? Got it.
Thanks for the insight.0 -
"so the ammonia and water mix ".........windex works well, so does soap & water 0 -
The ammonia does absolutely nothing for corrosive primers so you just need the water. Ammonia does serve to help with copper deposits but the amounts of ammonia found in commercial products is so small that it serves little purpose. High concentrations of ammonia will remove copper fouling but it will also damage steel within minutes so you need to be extremely careful before fooling around with what was once known as Ammonia Doping. 0 -
Old USGI bore cleaner was water based and had a smell that no one will ever forget (it ain't perfume!). This product was specifically designed to clean firearms after firing corrosive ammunition and works perfectly. A small can of this will probably be found at any gun show for less than you will end up spending on a bottle of glass cleaner, which works no better...Expecting of course that you can also use it to clean your windows!0 -
My cleaning process for corrosive ammo in bolt action rifles. You need a bucket and a dollar store plastic funnel, and a vise.
Remove bolt, place rifle in padded vise, muzzle tipped down at about a 45 degree angle. Place funnel in breech. Pour about a quart of hot water down the barrel. Remember that you were supposed to put bucket under muzzle. Run around looking for mop.
Put a couple of drops of Dawn dish detergent on bore brush. Scrub bore from breech end. Pour another quart of HOT water through the bore. While bore is draining, wipe bolt and chamber area with damp cloth.
Let rifle stand in vise for a few minutes. Heat will cause it to dry, but you want both ends of bore open for air to move around a bit. Run an oily patch down the bore. Maybe a second if first is real dirty. Wipe bolt and chamber area with oily cloth.
Hide the funnel and the dish detergent.
Not counting mopping floor, takes about 5 minutes. The salts (potassium chloride) are soluble in water, but not petroleum. You want to disolve the salt, and wash it out. If you have metal fouling, then use standard bore cleaner after washing out bore.
The old time GI bore cleaner is getting hard to find. Dawn and funnels easy to find.0 -
I use Windex or aerosol brake cleaner($1.99 a can at WalMart). I have not had any problems, rust or corrosion using these after firing corrosive ammo.
Regards, Jay0 -
quote:Originally posted by mark christian
Old USGI bore cleaner was water based and had a smell that no one will ever forget (it ain't perfume!). This product was specifically designed to clean firearms after firing corrosive ammunition and works perfectly. A small can of this will probably be found at any gun show for less than you will end up spending on a bottle of glass cleaner, which works no better...Expecting of course that you can also use it to clean your windows!
+1 or warm water & soap.0 -
I use the Remington Black Powder cleaning stuff called Vortex; it has all the goodies needed to wash the corrosive salts out and also helps clean the carbon gunk out left by the mil-surp ammo.
After one patch with it I just run a dry patch then Butches Bore Shine.0 -
About the best thing you can do, is pull the rifle out of the scock, and clean it in the hottest water you can handle, with dish soap. It has not failed many black powder shooters, and it will not fail you. Not only does the soapy water clean, but being a base, pH wise, the soap also neutralizes the acids.
Best0
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