ruger stock refinish
looking for information on refinishing a older ruger mark II tang safty rifle stock it has a a walnut stock ( the lighter harder to find style walnut from what i have seen in other auctions i dont remember the name ) the finish is like a older remington wingmaster not as shiney but more of a simi gloss look its on a ruger 458 that took a unsupervised trip many years ago and returned with scratches and a couple minor dings ( yes upset is a understatment) I just cant stand it in that condition and decided to see if i could improve on it so any support will be great its been a project I wanted to do for years and just kept putting off but its depressing every time I clean it up would consider having it done but the thought of possibley loosing the stock in shipping has kept me from that route mostly looking for what type of finish ruger used? what stripping method and protecting the checkering ideas ? long question but with the reason why added in I thought I may get better response
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May I suggest you contact Ruger and ask them about what type of finish was used on the gun originally. You can contact them at:
Stum, Ruger & Co Inc.
411 Sunapee Street
Newport,NH 03773
Tel: 603-865-2442
Fax: 603 863-61650 -
Sorry about your situation. However, I wanted to clear one thing up. There never has been, or most likely will be a Ruger 77 MK II with a tang safety. You have there an original Model 77, no MK II anywhere about it.
That out of the way, it would be nice if you could post a couple pictures on here so we can see your blemishes, and the type of finish your rifle has.
You might want to contact some stock maker's like Fajen, or Boyd's to see what they say about removing the finish too.
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Have you checked at a gunshop? They might be able to do it, or at least recommend someone familiar with refinishing.. Finishing a checkered stock can be a real chore if you have no woodworking/finishing experience.. Also check for someone that restores antique furniture.. 0 -
Having refinished/repointed many many stocks, let me offer the following:
Unless you have done lots of woodworking,restoration/recheckering, don't do it your self. If this gun has sentimental, or special meaning to you, don't do it yourself. If you do not already own the checkering tools/files/checkering cradle, or do not want to acquire them, don't do it yourself.
Calling Ruger, or the guy's at Brownell's may give you some idea of what finish to use, (There are lot's of them available). Depending on the stock, and the existing finish, I uses a combination, of strippers, and/or sanding to remove existing finish. If sanding near the checkering, be very carefull carefull not to over-run your stroke, and take of the points, on the checkering. If you have "dent's where the wood is compressed, learn how to steam them out, before you start on the stock. On surfaces that are flat, use a sanding block to maintain that shape,(cheek piece). Keep edges sharp without rounding them over. I wouldn't be to concerned about shipping the stock to have it repaired. Just pack it very well, and use USPS priority, and fully insure it. Good Luck HAWKSHAW0 -
Thanks for the feed back and I did calll it a mark II by mistake ( I knew better it was a last minute idea to get it rolling just before turning in last night and made a few mistakes ) I will follow up on some of the suggestions. I will try and add a photo or two this weekend ( I did buy a replacement stock here on gun broker a year or so ago could not belive some had a nos stock for it but its just a normal Ruger standard walnut stock not the upgraded ? stock it came with . I still want to get the orginal stock finished . if you have a shop you have dealed with that has a good repatation pass it along please if in Ohio that would be better. ( dont make to any gun shops most are 30 to 40 miles from me but will make a call also ) thank all of you for your time spent on me 0 -
Hawkshaw is right on!
We have used Birchwood Caseys gunstock refinishing kit, ($15) using their tru-oil finish with very good results on several Ruger and other's stocks!
Patience is main thing and you will need about 5-7 days of re-visiting the stock when applying the final finishs. Sometimes two coats can be applied in one day if temp conditions are right, but usually best to apply coat once every 24 hours. (Must be in a very clean dust free enviroment while drying between coats while the stock is hanging)
Do not sand nor get tru-oil in your checkering until the final coat.
If you get any oil in the checkering use a soft toothbrush to gently remove the wet oil. (sanded checkering or checkering loaded up with any type of finish does not look good) Just apply the oil away from the checkering and use the wet dry 1000 grit and you will get a good finish and no checkering loading.
Plan on a messy job of first day of preparing the stock, like stripping, dent raising, using warm water to bring out the old oils, etc. (watch several you tube videos, first) Let the stock dry at least 36 hours after the stripping, wetting, dent raising and before applying the first finish coat.
We use a 800 to 1200 grit wet dry sandpaper to apply the oil which produces a very good finish. Apply just a dab of oil to the wood with your fingers, then gently use the sandpaper to level the oil. (this is lot more user friendly than trying to use the steel wool. The fine sandpaper also scuffs and levels the previous coat as the new coat is being applied. If you want a non-gloss finish use the stock sheen conditioner after the stock is fully dried and use the conditioner with care because it's a very fine rubbing compound being used to break the gloss and bring the finish to a non-gloss satin finish.
Good luck to you!0 -
quote:Originally posted by Okie743
Hawkshaw is right on!
You should watch several you-tube videos about such before starting and Boyds gunstocks some good tips at this link!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fOhnr9AENLU
Take some of the videos with a grain of salt!
We have used Birchwood Caseys gunstock refinishing kit, ($15) using their tru-oil finish with very good results on several Ruger and other's stocks! We very seldom use the stain! You can dampen your stock with water to get an idea if you need desire to apply stain for a darker finish. The tru-oil will also darken the walnut when it's applied and soaks in. I sometimes slightly thin the first coat of tru-oil with mineral spirts to get a good soak in seal coat.
Patience is main thing and you will need about 5-7 days of re-visiting the stock when applying the final finishs. Sometimes two coats can be applied in one day if temp conditions are right, but usually best to apply coat once every 24 hours. (Must be in a very clean dust free enviroment while drying between coats while the stock is hanging)
Do not sand nor get tru-oil in your checkering until the final coat.
If you get any oil in the checkering use a soft toothbrush to gently remove the wet oil. (sanded checkering or checkering loaded up with any type of finish does not look good) Just apply the oil away from the checkering and use the wet dry 1000 grit and you will get a good finish and no checkering loading.
Plan on a messy job of first day of preparing the stock, like stripping, dent raising, using warm water to bring out the old oils, etc. (watch several you tube videos, first) Let the stock dry at least 36 hours after the stripping, wetting, dent raising and before applying the first finish coat.
We use a 800 to 1200 grit wet dry sandpaper to apply the oil which produces a very good finish. Apply just a dab of oil to the wood with your fingers, then gently use the sandpaper to level the oil. (this is lot more user friendly than trying to use the steel wool. The fine sandpaper also scuffs and levels the previous coat as the new coat is being applied. If you want a non-gloss finish use the stock sheen conditioner after the stock is fully dried and use the conditioner with care because it's a very fine rubbing compound being used to break the gloss and bring the finish to a non-gloss satin finish.
I also do not refinish my hunting gun stocks immediately before deer season, because they will give off a curing odor for approx 4 mo's and deer in my neck of the woods don't like the tru-oil odor!
Good luck to you!0 -
Morning DITCH-RUNNER.. Ruger used Circassian Walnut on their magnums.. They applied a satin, almost flat urethane that simulated an oil finish.. Give these people a call.. They should know exactly what you need.. Check the different categories on the left..
http://www.ahlmans.com/0
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