Hand-rubbed finish not curing
Hi everyone. I just refinished a custom stock and forend on a Model 12 I made for myself some years back. I tried out the Warthog Stock Finishing kit, sold by Jeff's Outfitters. It contains alkanet root oil, slakum oil, and rubbing oil. Put two coats of the alkanet root oil on and it cured in hours and was flat. Then directions show to put on a coat of slakum oil which I did. Read to wait until that coat drys to the touch of 'toffee'. Did that. Then put on the rubbing oil. Added the powdered ocra for filler. After that directions say to use the 'slakum oil process'. To me that sounds like I have to put on the slakum, let it cure then rub it off with the rubbing oil. Got the the finish point I wanted, but the last coat of the rubbing oil has remained sticky for over a week. I've hit it twice with mineral spirits which helped a little. I notice the finish is ever so slightly orange pealed near the but. How do I get this thing to cure? What if I wiped it down with a smidgen of jap drier? Help!
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What Temp. is the room its drying in. You might try a hairdryer on low and keep it moving in a area. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by k.stanonik
What Temp. is the room its drying in. You might try a hairdryer on low and keep it moving in a area.
The room temperature is probably around 70 degrees but no more. Relative humidity hovers around 40 percent0 -
I think the worse that can happen with Jap dryer (pentane) is it will strip your finish off somewhat. I really like the LinSpeed oil finish. 0 -
Here is what I have read from some refinishing experts somewhere. Some of the oils or finishes can go bad over time due to exposure to air after the container is opened. What they recommend is that you add marbles or glass beads to the container after removing the amount needed for the project. This process might leave a film at the opening of the container but the remaining product below will remain in original condition. I do not know if this is what you might be experiencing but sure sound like the symptoms of what these guys were explaining. 0 -
I'd get some Acetone, and scrub it off.. Trying to work with a soft, non-curing finish is thankless.. If you want to continue with the "Kit", really read the directions.. I've never seen that "Kit", but it sounds like you're looking for that "London Oil", or "Purdy" finish.. Slakum oil is an old formula that contains a drying oil ( usually Linseed), and various waxes like Beeswax and Carnuba.. It needs to be applied in super thin, rubbed-in coats.. Double check that "Rubbing Oil".. That may be your problem.. In wood finishing, rubbing oil is normally used as a lubricant for using rubbing compounds when cutting the dried finish,, It's a simple mineral/petroleum oil, and never dries.. Must be COMPLETELY removed before applying additional finish.. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by Hangfire
I'd get some Acetone, and scrub it off.. Trying to work with a soft, non-curing finish is thankless.. If you want to continue with the "Kit", really read the directions.. I've never seen that "Kit", but it sounds like you're looking for that "London Oil", or "Purdy" finish.. Slakum oil is an old formula that contains a drying oil ( usually Linseed), and various waxes like Beeswax and Carnuba.. It needs to be applied in super thin, rubbed-in coats.. Double check that "Rubbing Oil".. That may be your problem.. In wood finishing, rubbing oil is normally used as a lubricant for using rubbing compounds when cutting the dried finish,, It's a simple mineral/petroleum oil, and never dries.. Must be COMPLETELY removed before applying additional finish..
I did read the directions completely. And cross referenced all from Purdy's web site. I have been suspecting the rubbing oil. One thing the directions were not clear on was whether or not the rubbing oil must be applied to the stock between coats of slakum. Don't get me wrong about the look. The stock and forend are gorgeous!0 -
Just some follow-up thoughts..
If, in fact, that's regular rubbing oil, I think you contaminated the finish.. I can't conceive of any reason using it between coats..
The drying oil in the Alkanet is probably Tung 0il.. That would explain it's relatively short dry time, and the wrinkling you're seeing.. If a wet coat ( or a second application over an uncured coat) of Tung oil is left on the surface, that's what happens.. This wrinkling is very noticeable with Tung oil, in fact that's one of the ingredients mixed with enamels used in Wrinkle Paint..
I think you'll need to remove the surface finish.. Re-apply the Alkanet oil for the color, and initial sealing, and let it dry overnight.. Be sure and rub it in, leaving little if any on the surface.. If the directions call for an oil to apply their filler, use the Slakum oil.. Wipe off as much surface residue as possible, pulling a minimum back out of the pores.. Let it dry good, and the next day use steel wool to lightly rub off any filler haze that's left..
Since your Slakum mixture is slower drying, my guess is that Linseed oil is used as the carrier.. That was also the oil of choice for London Oil finishes.. It darkens as time passes.. You could now apply a rubbed in coat of that .. .. Since Slakum is the look you're after, apply a few more coats, but let each dry at least over night.. I don't use, or like, added wax.. Finishes using it take forever to dry, and even when dry to the touch, feel "soft".. I prefer Pure Tung Oil, diluted 50/50 with thinner for that satin, smooth oil finish.. But that's just my method..
Stay away from the Rubbing oil.. For the final rub down of the dried finish, pick up some Linseed oil and OOOO steel wool.. Thin the Linseed with paint thinner 50/50, and since it's so slow drying, you'll be able to use it as a lubricant for rubbing, and it shouldn't get tacky on ya.. If you have enough, you could use the Slakum as well.. Thin it too.. When it's smooth, and you're happy, wipe off ALL the Linseed and wool traces.. Use Bronze Wool if you feel safer, but steel wool won't embed in a finished stock, like it might in bare wood.. And remember the Golden Rule for a true London Oil Finish using a Slakum formula.. Always using a fresh batch, apply..
Once a day, for a week..
Once a week, for a month..
Once a month, for a year..
And once a year, for the rest of your life..
Good Luck..[8D]0 -
maybe you should try good old fashioned Linseed oil.., back in the day when i was making muzzleloader rifles i used just plain Linseed oil, and actually "hand rubbing" no cloth, just your hand, apply one coat and vigorously rubbing it in till it feels dry, let set over night and follow this routine for a week, if done properly you will have a finish that is hard shiny and nearly scratch proof. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by Hangfire
Just some follow-up thoughts..
If, in fact, that's regular rubbing oil, I think you contaminated the finish.. I can't conceive of any reason using it between coats..
The drying oil in the Alkanet is probably Tung 0il.. That would explain it's relatively short dry time, and the wrinkling you're seeing.. If a wet coat ( or a second application over an uncured coat) of Tung oil is left on the surface, that's what happens.. This wrinkling is very noticeable with Tung oil, in fact that's one of the ingredients mixed with enamels used in Wrinkle Paint..
I think you'll need to remove the surface finish.. Re-apply the Alkanet oil for the color, and initial sealing, and let it dry overnight.. Be sure and rub it in, leaving little if any on the surface.. If the directions call for an oil to apply their filler, use the Slakum oil.. Wipe off as much surface residue as possible, pulling a minimum back out of the pores.. Let it dry good, and the next day use steel wool to lightly rub off any filler haze that's left..
Since your Slakum mixture is slower drying, my guess is that Linseed oil is used as the carrier.. That was also the oil of choice for London Oil finishes.. It darkens as time passes.. You could now apply a rubbed in coat of that .. .. Since Slakum is the look you're after, apply a few more coats, but let each dry at least over night.. I don't use, or like, added wax.. Finishes using it take forever to dry, and even when dry to the touch, feel "soft".. I prefer Pure Tung Oil, diluted 50/50 with thinner for that satin, smooth oil finish.. But that's just my method..
Stay away from the Rubbing oil.. For the final rub down of the dried finish, pick up some Linseed oil and OOOO steel wool.. Thin the Linseed with paint thinner 50/50, and since it's so slow drying, you'll be able to use it as a lubricant for rubbing, and it shouldn't get tacky on ya.. If you have enough, you could use the Slakum as well.. Thin it too.. When it's smooth, and you're happy, wipe off ALL the Linseed and wool traces.. Use Bronze Wool if you feel safer, but steel wool won't embed in a finished stock, like it might in bare wood.. And remember the Golden Rule for a true London Oil Finish using a Slakum formula.. Always using a fresh batch, apply..
Once a day, for a week..
Once a week, for a month..
Once a month, for a year..
And once a year, for the rest of your life..
Good Luck..[8D]Thanks for all the advice! I went ahead and got some straight alcohol from the hardware store. The directs read that it could be used to strip off extra finish should it not harden. You all have a great weekend. This forum is prices..0 -
I too think you will need to start over. Gotta tell a linseed story.
We had a little milk painted walnut chest that belonged to my 1881 grampa. I should never have ruined its patina by stripping it, but it had a stain from my chemistry experiments during the 50's.
I thought linseed would give an original look, and maybe it was not boiled. Anyway, I put it on about 1977, but it never cured....it was sticky for ten years. Then I stripped it again.0
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