Garand Reassembly question
Picked up a Garand from CMP the other day. 1956 receiever, Springfield, new CMP stock. I couldn't be happier.
I was field stripping, just for a quick look (didn't have the time to do a full cleaning and teardown) and it was impossible to pull back the trigger guard without putting a screwdriver through the guard and pulling with both hands.
Came apart fine, reassembled fine, but getting the guard to latch back in required me to grease the slots where the pivit points on the trigger latch fit into the receiver, and then I had to have the gun on my bench, with heavy weight and the screwdriver again.
Is this normal? This certainly couldn't be done without tools and a solid surface...
I was field stripping, just for a quick look (didn't have the time to do a full cleaning and teardown) and it was impossible to pull back the trigger guard without putting a screwdriver through the guard and pulling with both hands.
Came apart fine, reassembled fine, but getting the guard to latch back in required me to grease the slots where the pivit points on the trigger latch fit into the receiver, and then I had to have the gun on my bench, with heavy weight and the screwdriver again.
Is this normal? This certainly couldn't be done without tools and a solid surface...
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Not desirable, but within the "normal" range.
It's a real problem if the fit is too loose, as that could allow the TG to pop open at a bad moment.
You have a new commercial walnut stock, which is not exactly made to USGI milspec, plus it may be several months before the moisture content of the wood stabilizes. The armorers who work on these use a rubber mallet to close the TG. The screwdriver trick works best with an older forged TG with a hole, not so well with a stamped TG.
If it's still too tight after 6 months in your safe, you can adjust the stock by sanding a little off of the tapered flats next to the mag well on the bottom of the stock.
Neal
EDIT: It's hard to explain in words, but.....when you start to close the trigger guard, what you are doing is pressing the bottom of the trigger housing (which covers the bottom of the magazine well) against the stock's bottom. The trigger guard locking lugs are the fulcrum of a lever. You are sandwiching the bottom of the stock between the receiver & the trigger housing when you rotate the trigger guard. By sanding the surface on either side of the mag well, you will be moving the trigger housing closer to the receiver. Best I can do, I will be amazed if anyone understands.0 -
quote:If it's still too tight after 6 months in your safe, you can adjust the stock by sanding a little off of the tapered flats next to the mag well on the bottom of the stock.
I don't understand about adjusting the stock; what you say makes sense, but for the issue of the "adjust the stock".
All in all, I'd say going to the CMP was definately worth the trip (Camp Perry).0 -
Even with a totally broken in Garand that part is always difficult and takes some getting the hang of...
The stock may still be a little green. Shrinkage may occur.
If it were mine I would contact CMP for details.
Utube has some videos for extra info.0 -
Generally speaking, tight is good. In fact most Garand owners leave their weapons unlatched to prevent lock-up from squeezing the wood over time. I am not an expert, but I leave my rifles unlatched in storage. [:)] 0 -
USGI specs call for a "definite resistance" when closing the trigger guard beginning at 3/8 inches of draw. As Neal already mentioned; the typical problem is the trigger guard being too loose but in your case it is the opposite so don't be afraid to break out that rubber mallet and give it a good solid rap to lock the guard home. Leave it locked and as Neal said, it should eventually wear itself in once the wood stabilizes. That could well take months to achieve so failing that (once again) follow Neal's suggestion and take very minor amounts of wood away from the flats at the bottom of the stock where the trigger group enters the stock. 0 -
Note photos below. This is the typical setup (photos of M1A mated to a new stock from Fulton Armory).
Notice the step in the receiver? Your M1 has one, also. Hold your rifle up to the light, looking at the side, and if you can see any light between the rear of the receiver (the heel) and the stock, you can dress the stock down ahead of the step!
Take a flat bas-tard file, and file down both sides evenly ahead of the step. The goal is to lower the heel down to become flush with the stock.
By using a flat file, you will be 'dressing' down the stock evenly. Make sure you perform one stroke on each side, and fit the action into the stock after each stroke (so as to not remove too much wood).
Here's the pics..good luck! Joe
I filed the right side ahead of the step
..and the left side. In this photo, the area filed is obscured by the scope mount, and the step is hidden behind the bolt catch
Here's the end result. Sweet! I originally had about one credit-card's thickness of space between the heel and stock-not any more! I was able to get a 'snug' lockup, not too tight. Lockup was impossible with the stock as delivered-now I'm good to go!0 -
Thanks for all the help! You all really went above and beyond on this one! 0 -
Another thing you can do is get a different trigger guard that has some ware on it and it will fit looser and you don't have to take stock material away.
Emmett0
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