decapping military brass
Having difficulty decapping military brass.
Decapping pin just pushes through the primer jams up the whole works.
Is there a step I am missing?
Decapping pin just pushes through the primer jams up the whole works.
Is there a step I am missing?
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what set up are you using?
I've decapped hundreds of military cases with no issues.0 -
I do all my crimped primers by hand with a punch ground to fit flash holes and with a flat point. I remove the crimp with a clip point pocket knife blade. Sometime they require a ream with a Lyman hand tool for the pocket and always the a flash hole deburr/uniformer. 0 -
Sounds like the cases have been exposed to the elements and the primers are corroded in place. Considering the price of cases right now, it might be worthwhile to set a bunch of cases base down in a pan and spray penetrating oil into the mouths. It will run down and hopefully, loosen the bond between case and primer. I've had this happen less than .1% of military crimped cases so if you're seeing it more often, there's some problem for sure. 0 -
I have no problems with LC or WCC 556 brass. 0 -
Set the cases up close together in a shallow pan. DISCLAIMER: do not let wife catch you with aforementioned pan [B)]. Pack them close together. Pour Kroil liquid into the pan just deep enough to cover the lip of the extractor groove. allow it to sit for a week or two.
You will need to carefully decap them to allow the metal to flow and avoid punctures. BTDT with range brass exposed to water for a while.0 -
I am using a RCBS II with a Redding 308 WIN FL die.
Decapping pin is slightly rounded, should I flatten it?
The head stamp on the brass is SF 73 with the NATO mark.
The box they are in states that they are French Military.0 -
The anvil in a Boxer Primer is not flat, so it would seem that a rounded tip would be best. A round tip also has more surface/contact area than one that is flat. (sphere v edge)
quote:Originally posted by wiz1997
I am using a RCBS II with a Redding 308 WIN FL die.
Decapping pin is slightly rounded, should I flatten it?
The head stamp on the brass is SF 73 with the NATO mark.
The box they are in states that they are French Military.0 -
Could they be berdan primed? 0 -
"Could they be berdan primed?"
That primer punch has to be going through somewhere.0 -
The one I did manage to get out has a single flash hole.
Had to put a slow steady pressure on it to get it out.
Purchased about 400 rounds of live ammo at an estate sale and have shot some of it. Wonder if this could have been belted ammo at one time? Going to try and soak the cases in penetrating oil for a week or so then try again.0 -
quote:Originally posted by wiz1997
The one I did manage to get out has a single flash hole.
Had to put a slow steady pressure on it to get it out.
Purchased about 400 rounds of live ammo at an estate sale and have shot some of it. Wonder if this could have been belted ammo at one time? Going to try and soak the cases in penetrating oil for a week or so then try again.
The flash holes, if boxer primed, might be off center. I had a bunch of 223 milsurp brass that was boxer, but for some reason, the hole was off center or oblong and had a hell of time with a lot of them.
I'd do what you did: use a slow and steady pressure on them, if it's not moving at all, toss it as the flash hole might not be lined up and you're just trying to punch through the head.
Better to have some cases out of the lot that can be used right?0 -
I have had good luck with a Lee Military decapping punch. They are tough and will punch out WW II primers with no problems; .45, .30 carbine and '06. Punch body is too thick to go into the mouth of 5.56, but I think Lee makes one for it. 0 -
I buy them decapped. After busting 2 pins I decided just to pay a little more. 0
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