Reloading question
what can i do to make my loads more accurate? have been thinking about turning the necks,using a neck bushing die,micrometer seating die an not crimping the case. am i on the right track or just wasting money
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I've thought about getting reloading equipment for my .357, but I'm unsure on what all I'm going to need. Does anyone have any advice for a newbie?
GH1[:)]0 -
I think you should check the cases before sizing. 0 -
I use crushed walnut shell media. It has never caused breakage of any steel part. Maybe a solution.
Second reply, after reading other responses. There seems to be a serious time and steps price to pay for using SSM. What with tumbling, washing, using magnets, retumbling, etc. They may have to vibrate a few minutes longer using walnut, but that is the extent of the procedure. Vibrate for the required time, sift out the cases, then reload. Easy Peazy. The cases are perfectly shiny and clean and you can leave out all those other steps. If by chance a grain of walnut shell somehow stays in the case, no big deal as it will not break a steel decapping pin. [:D]0 -
Thanks for the input i posted this in reloading as well ....thats where i should have put it to begin with.. maybe a mod will come along and poof this one or lock it. 0 -
oscar meyer,
I see no reason to delete this topic as having it posted in both forums will get a cross section of responses. It's a good topic to cover.
quote:I use crushed walnut shell media. It has never caused breakage of any steel part. Maybe a solution.
On the surface this appears to be a simple, yet disarming remark. In reality though, the SSM is by far superior to any of the other processes including walnut or corn cob. There is no comparison as to the speed and cleanliness achieved when using SSM. None.
Solving the problem is simple though. Just look inside every case prior to performing any of the later tasks.
Best.0 -
I'm gonna state the obvious...that if you keep using that cleaning media, you're going to keep getting the same results. After at least 15 years reloading, all I can say is the standard cleaning medias with a dollop of case cleaning solution once in a while will do you just fine...and won't break pins if they're stuck in flash holes or primer pockets.
Stay safe!0 -
all the posts I"ve seen re: steel pin media,they decap 1st as the pins will even shine the primer pockets.Whether this will solve your problem,i'm not sure. 0 -
Thanks to all.. it just did not occur to me that they would or could get stuck in there like that!! I am learning every time i sit down and process brass. Looks like i have about 1000 cases to inspect the insides on. Lesson learned thankfully the only damage was to a few decapping pins and not anything worse. 0 -
Easy Fix: Get yourself an old speaker from that busted car stereo you keep in the garage, and mount it next to your tumbler.
Pass each case over the speakers' magnet, case mouth down, and any errant media will jump onto the magnet and out of your cases.
You still have to look at each case (you should, anyway!), but this will remove any loose media, and hang on to it for you.0 -
I thought stainless wasnt magnetic? 0 -
quote:Originally posted by JimmyJack
I thought stainless wasnt magnetic?
depends on grade.0 -
Get a decapping die. They don't resize, just push the primer out. 0 -
I deprime my cases prior to running them in the SS media with either with a Havey deprimer or a decapping die, I do this so I have nice clean primer pockets more than anything else.
I visually inspect all cases after cleaning but before anything else for defects of any kind including media stuck in them.
With how well the SS system cleans it is much easier to spot defects once the whole case is cleaned inside and out.0 -
One last suggestion...make sure your decapping pin is TIGHT on the die. If it's loose, it may bend...and not hit the primer, but will instead hit the case rim, breaking it. I've broken several pins that way before I figured it out. 0 -
if you had a media seperator (or whatever they are called) this would not be a problem. You place the cases in a rotating bin and them turn the bin for a minute or two. Any media inside the cases will be knocked loose from the cases tumbling around, and will find it's way out of the cases, through the holes in the bin, and drop into the base container.
http://www.opticsplanet.com/rcbs-rotary-case-media-separator-87076.html?gclid=CMjsrILHsbcCFcad4AodiWoAbg&ef_id=UaDWdAAABZkOjwT-:20130525151916:s0 -
Justc...These pins were firmly lodged in the base of these .223 cases. They had to be removed with a pick! No ammount of tumbling was going to dislodge them. 0 -
The lee design with a collet grip on the decapping rod is nice. Have had rod slide up several times from a small rimless autoloader case getting stuck in my rimmed wheel gun cases. Would have broken the pin or perhaps bent the rod in regular dies. Plus I keep a separate sack for range pickups. Less dirt and no surprises in my stuff. 0 -
Failure to visually inspect every case is an accident waiting to happen, IMHO. Don't leave it to chance.
Some "stainless steels" have enough ferrous content for magnets to work on them, some don't. Again, making assumptions is not safe when explosions can result.0 -
If loading on a single stage press, I would tumble in walnut to remove dirt, size, SSM tumble, then load. The SSM does a wonderful job at removing the dirt and grime inside the case and primer pocket. It can't do that if the primer is still there. The chances of a piece of SSM getting stuck in the primer hole is a lot less likely with the primer not there. 0 -
These pins were not stuck in the flash hole or the primer pocket. They were wedged in the bottom of the case length wise! 0 -
I think if you had fluid coming from both directions in the case, you may find the ssm doesn't get stuck in the end. This is just a guess though, try it and see. 0
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