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savage 6a question

toad67
LGS has a neat little Savage 6A on the rack. I've done some searching and cant find much info on it. Page 1678 of the current BB mentions a 6 and 6S however no mention of a 6A. Any idea as to what it is? It is stamped 6A on the receiver and able to lock the bolt in/out to make it a single or auto. Thanks in advance!

Todd
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Comments

8 comments

Date Votes
  • charliemeyer007
    Lots of info if you google "savage 6a", they were ok.
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  • Fatstrat
    IMO a really terrible design that Savage perpetrated on the gun buying public for many years. Starting with the original model 6 up through a slew of later model designations ending w/the model 187N I think. The problem is with the sear mech which uses 2 "detent plungers". One that stops the bolt in the single shot mode you describe. The other that releases the firing pin. These plungers and the springs that operate them wear out. And once worn out, are IMPOSSIBLE to replace. There are no new parts available. And used parts are likely worn out parts stripped off non working guns that had the same wear problem. If you want to spend literally days to weeks experimenting with a worn out example, you "might" be able to rejuvenate the old plungers. But it's a long shot. For this reason most gunsmiths won't even take one in. If you get one that's been a safe queen and fired very little, it's a good gun. But be aware that w/use it will very likely wear these plungers out and then become a useless piece of gun junk. They are also famous for the possibility of going full auto when these plungers wear out. IMO don't walk, RUN AWAY. Get yourself a better gun. IMAG0263_zpsf47c53f9.jpg
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  • goodgunparts
    Great guns and I have several in different model numbers. Never have seen the problem the previous poster mentions. Not that it is not there, just have never seen it.

    One reason I have so many is they were never collectible because they do not have the correct name on them. If Winchester or Remington made them they would likely be a $500 gun. As Savage/Stevens/Springfield they are $100 guns or less.
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  • Emmett Dunham
    I have a Model 7 and a Model 87A, the 7 has a detachable magazine and the 87A is tub feed. I bought both of these rifle in the basket and I just finished restoring the 7 and took it shooting along with a 1906 Winchester and they both scored about the same on target. They do have a strange trigger on them and I noticed that the pull on the 7 was rough and long compaired to the 87A. I got the drammel out and set both rifles down and kept taking material off of the 7 until the trigger pull was the same as the 87A and now it has a very good trigger. The thing that the gentleman may be missing about the plungers is that the area that catches the bolt and releases the bolt can be worked down flat if they are worn and if you can wear the pins out that support the plungers then you need to find a super gun to shoot. I have fifty bucks in the 7 and was given the 87A with a barrel that looked like a tomato stake and enjoyed turnning them into as new rifles. There are people on Rim Fire Centeral that can sell you parts or guide you in the right direction on repairs of these rifles.

    Emmett
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  • Fatstrat
    quote:Originally posted by Emmett Dunham
    I have a Model 7 and a Model 87A, the 7 has a detachable magazine and the 87A is tub feed. I bought both of these rifle in the basket and I just finished restoring the 7 and took it shooting along with a 1906 Winchester and they both scored about the same on target. They do have a strange trigger on them and I noticed that the pull on the 7 was rough and long compaired to the 87A. I got the drammel out and set both rifles down and kept taking material off of the 7 until the trigger pull was the same as the 87A and now it has a very good trigger. The thing that the gentleman may be missing about the plungers is that the area that catches the bolt and releases the bolt can be worked down flat if they are worn and if you can wear the pins out that support the plungers then you need to find a super gun to shoot. I have fifty bucks in the 7 and was given the 87A with a barrel that looked like a tomato stake and enjoyed turnning them into as new rifles. There are people on Rim Fire Centeral that can sell you parts or guide you in the right direction on repairs of these rifles.

    Emmett

    Would sure like to learn more on how you did it. I've got one (187N)that I've been working on for about a year. And purchased several used trigger/sear mechs. Searched the web and posted how to questions on several forums. Have heard it can be done...sometimes. But virtually everyone says it was just trial and error that in the end, they weren't sure what procedure, or combination of procedures made it work. All said it wasn't worth the time spent and grey hairs they got doing it. And wouldn't touch one again. And many of these were gunsmiths. They told me where the problem was. But couldn't tell how to fix it w/o new parts. At 1st I was like "Yeah right. Well, I want to fix mine and I'm going to try". But have had 0 luck. You're the 1st positive story I've ever seen from someone who has worked on one.
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  • Fatstrat
    There is yet another post on RF Central experiencing the problems I have with one of these type rifles. The post responding to it refers to my post, prompted by Mr. Dunhams post here, asking for help. Still none.
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  • Emmett Dunham
    I stand on what I said about these little rifles. I will take inn as many of this design rifle as I can at the right price and put them back in shooting order for fun. Gunsmith or no gunsmith I have restored and worked on two of these rifles and am happy with the results. About asking questions on how to repair these rifles on Rim Fire Central not many people that can answer questions but is a good source for parts and comments on the function of their rifles.

    Fatstat, If you take a look at the pin in the middle of the trigger group it has worn a grove in both sides of the housing letting the plunger ride up higher in the group. This could be the source of some of your problems. I reduced the hight of the sear to compensate for this ware. Take your time and spend a lot of time taking a little bit off and set and pull the trigger until you like it. You could also take the parts out of the group and solder or weld the worn area and grind it back down and get the same result but you may still have to take the sear down a little bit. This will smooth out your trigger ans shorten your trigger pull. The rest of the assembly can be taken down and you can polish all of the pins and cylinders to also help you get a smoother action. If you have two of these triggers setting these you can experiment with one of them but the concept is simple enough that you should be able to get it on the first group.

    I am not taking responsibility for modifications you make to your weapon. I am explaining the results I got from doing the above procedure, be careful when modifying the sear!


    Emmett
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  • Fatstrat
    Worth a shot. Thanks.
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