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Gun lubrication

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9 comments

  • rufe-snow
    The best stuff I found just as a lubricant has Moly D in it. Either mixed in a grease, or with alcohol. After the alcohol evaporates there is a film of moly left on the parts with no grease to hold grit or powder fouling.
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  • perry shooter
    BALLISTOL will not hurt wood or leather Non toxic biodegradable great on all metals.
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  • charliemeyer007
    I like the Rig grease in both regular and stainless. Note that regular will soften the old micro-bed 2 part epoxy to the point of failure. Break Free is good stuff.
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  • beantownshootah
    There are MANY threads open on this topic.

    I think for the vast majority of shooters, any purpose-designed gun lubricant will work fine, and I think that unless you're really pushing your gun to the limits (ie running full auto fire, running the gun in extremely hot or cold climates, not maintaining it due to negligence or inability), you'll never see a functional performance difference between any of them.

    IE, except under fairly tough circumstances, the lube usually isn't the limiting factor in gun performance. In those "extreme" cases where lube become critical, there is still usually more than one different product that can work, and I just don't think there is one "do it all product" that blows away everything else.

    A lot of this just comes down to which product is available to you, your particular application (ie lube for what kind of gun, and in what conditions), cost, and just personal preference.

    For a cheap readily available product, some people swear by simple high-viscosity synthetic motor oil as a good gun lubricant, figuring that if it works in a hot motor vehicle engine at 6000+ RPM at super high temperatures, it ought to work fine in "just a gun".

    If you need something cheap, down and dirty, its not optimal, but 3-in-one oil will work.

    The one I use most often is CLP "breakfree". Why? This particular lube has been "torture" tested by the US military for use in weapons and it holds up as a good lube and rust preventative. Its not the best "cleaner" (the CLP is supposed to be Clean, Lube, Protect) but its certainly adequate as a cleaner if that's what you have.

    In practice, its cheap, readily available, and empirically, its worked fine for me over the years.

    For what its worth, Pat Rogers (noted gun instructor) swears by Slip-2000 for AR-15 platform guns, which he believes (via tremendous amount of personal experience) run best "wet" (ie sopping with lube). So I have some for my AR-15. . .which I almost never shoot let alone lube!

    Edit:
    Oh, and this raises a point. If (like me) you're cheap/lazy and want to use one product for cleaning, lubrication, and rust prevention, then you can't really expect that one product to work as well in each of those three roles as three specialty products each designed for one of those three things.

    Again, its a tradeoff of cost/convenience vs performance. For me the most basic requirement is just that the gun have *SOME* lube (rather than being run bone dry). That will probably get you 80% of the way there.
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  • MG1890
    I like military weapons oil. Comes in a green plastic bottle, comes out as a whitish oil. I think it's called "LSA"????
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  • Riomouse911
    I used to use CLP. I now use Slip2000EWL. It's a bit expensive, but I like it.

    For fun, Google "filthy 14 article." The AR discussed in the article has gone North of 30k rounds with no real cleaning..but it was well lubed with the Slip stuff.
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  • TWalker
    Breakfree.
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  • lts
    CLP
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  • EVILDR235
    I just take a little gas out of the tractor to clean them and oilem up with some 3 IN ONE OIL.Worked for grandpappy.

    Billy Bob Jr.
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