OLD 1873 32-20 QUESTION
I posted this on the GD side, but figure you guys might be able to help.
Posted - 03/21/2013 : 7:15:38 PM
so I bought a 1873 winchester in 32-30 that I knew was not original, but I just wanted a shooter for CAS.
here's the auction description:
ANTIQUE NO FFL LICENCE REQUIRED FOR SHIPPING.WINCHESTER 1873 LEVER ACTION RIFLE 32-20 ANTIQUE.SERIAL#351196 B,24" OCTAGON BARREL.GUN IS REBLUED WITH HEAVY BUFFING.WINCHESTER BARREL MARKINGS AND RECEIVER MARKINGS ARE STILL READABLE.WOOD SHOWS SANDING WITH VARNISH ADDED.
seller was honest about the finish, so his not mentioning any mechanical issues made me think there weren't any.
that's not the case.
when cycling the action, every 3rd, 4th or 5th cycle jammed the bolt in the rearward position. lever handle is fully extended, hammer is cocked.
by pulling back on the hammer and putting fwd pressure on the bolt with one hand, and gently pulling back on the lever, the bolt will retract and the action will cycle a few more times.
so, the question is: does this 100+ y/o gun need a good cleaning, or is this a sign of serious internal issues?
thanks!
tom
Posted - 03/21/2013 : 7:15:38 PM
so I bought a 1873 winchester in 32-30 that I knew was not original, but I just wanted a shooter for CAS.
here's the auction description:
ANTIQUE NO FFL LICENCE REQUIRED FOR SHIPPING.WINCHESTER 1873 LEVER ACTION RIFLE 32-20 ANTIQUE.SERIAL#351196 B,24" OCTAGON BARREL.GUN IS REBLUED WITH HEAVY BUFFING.WINCHESTER BARREL MARKINGS AND RECEIVER MARKINGS ARE STILL READABLE.WOOD SHOWS SANDING WITH VARNISH ADDED.
seller was honest about the finish, so his not mentioning any mechanical issues made me think there weren't any.
that's not the case.
when cycling the action, every 3rd, 4th or 5th cycle jammed the bolt in the rearward position. lever handle is fully extended, hammer is cocked.
by pulling back on the hammer and putting fwd pressure on the bolt with one hand, and gently pulling back on the lever, the bolt will retract and the action will cycle a few more times.
so, the question is: does this 100+ y/o gun need a good cleaning, or is this a sign of serious internal issues?
thanks!
tom
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Tom, a good deep cleaning never hurts, and that one was made in 1890. That's a lot of years getting cycled. First two things I would check:
Check to see if the firing pin is hanging on the hammer when it's jammed. If the bearing surfaces the bolt rides on, the FP in the bolt, and the bolt itself are worn, the upward pressure from the hammer spring makes the bolt hang. 9 out of 10 times, a Good cleaning and lube will compensate for it.
Another "could be" is the brass carrier hanging up in the frame. It seems the first thing done to clear a jam was to beat the bottom of the brass carrier, that's why most of them look like somebody took a ballpeen hammer to them. When you re-assemble it, it helps to have a heavy grease on the carrier lever and the surfaces of the carrier it rides on.
And all that, depends on good toggles for a tight lock up.
http://stevespages.com/ipb-winchester-1873.html0 -
Thanks for the advice and the link!
I've never taken one of these apart. Can I do most of the clean and lube by removing the side covers?
the carrier seems to move freely, but it does have a few "hammer marks" on it. not as many as some i've seen. never knew what they were from.[B)]
thanks again
tom0 -
Removing the side plates will reveal that it comes apart pretty easily. Removing the breech pin (bolt) may require pulling the hammer pivot pin so it drops down slightly to clear as you slide breech pin out. Good idea to have parts diagram at hand. 0 -
Maybe this will help you, Tom 
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thanks tom, its a reverse veiw of the link trap sent me.
I need all the help I can get!
tom0 -
Tom, I found this long after I had mine apart and back together a dozen or so times.
http://www.rarewinchesters.com/images/Exploded Views/1866-73-dissassembly.shtml
Couple of things to add to the instructions above, one is, it ain't rocket science, lay the parts out in the order you took em out. The side plates have a lip to hold them in place, careful you don't bugger em up pulling them off. Lift from the rear, and pull back. Removing the buttstock, and then the lower tang, drops a bunch of parts out in a module. Use good gunsmith screw drivers that fit the slots!
I just wasted a whole day cleaning up buggered screws for a Colt SAA clone I'm restoring, bubba's ears had to be burning all day.[:(!]
If you get in a jam putting it back together, PM me a phone number and I'll walk ya through it over the phone.0 -
quote:I just wasted a whole day cleaning up buggered screws for a Colt SAA clone I'm restoring,
funny you mentioned a bubba SAA.
I'm pretty good with 1911's and AR's , can pretty much disassemble and reassemble blindfolded.
so one day i decided to take apart a 3rd gen SAA. just to see what made it tick.
could NOT put it back to working order despite lots of advice and schematics. luckily a smith buddy did it for me.
so, I don't want to repeat the mistake with the winchester![B)]
tom0 -
quote:I just wasted a whole day cleaning up buggered screws for a Colt SAA clone I'm restoring,
funny you mentioned a bubba SAA.
I'm pretty good with 1911's and AR's , can pretty much disassemble and reassemble blindfolded.
so one day i decided to take apart a 3rd gen SAA. just to see what made it tick.
could NOT put it back to working order despite lots of advice and schematics. luckily a smith buddy did it for me.
so, I don't want to repeat the mistake with the winchester![B)]
tom0 -
quote:Originally posted by Spartacus
Thanks for the advice and the link!
I've never taken one of these apart. Can I do most of the clean and lube by removing the side covers?
the carrier seems to move freely, but it does have a few "hammer marks" on it. not as many as some i've seen. never knew what they were from.[B)]
thanks again
tom
73's come apart fairly easy, most of the time when you remove the side covers, the toggle links will fall out, the covers hold them in place. Take out the toggles and clean all the thick dirty grease off and lube, and reassemble.0
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