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S&W 38, Model? Thoughts from the experts please

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10 comments

  • rufe-snow
    It appears to be a post W W II, Military and Police model. It would date probably to the 47-48 1955 time frame. The first digit of the serial number you gave us is most likely the letter "S""C", rather then the number 3. Or possibly the same miscreant who removed the serial number from the butt altered the other serial numbers?

    Considering the condition it's in now, and that the main serial number has been removed. I would forget about selling it. It might cause you way more problems with the badge boys, then you could make money wise selling it.

    EDIT #1, According to the Smith & Wesson Book. The "S" prefix was used on heavy duty "N" frame, Model .38-44 revolvers, after W W II. Serial Number(s) given were between "S62489" & "S219999". Because of this don't have a clue what your revolver is? Have to believe it's some kind of a lunch box special. That was assembled from parts, by persons unknown?

    I don't know if Roy Jenks is still with us? If not contact Supica or Nahas who wrote the S & W book. Maybe they could figure out what it is?

    EDIT #2, The only thing I can think of is that # 22046 is the original serial number, putting DOM in 1902. The serial number has had a spurious alpha prefix added since then to alter it, for reasons unknown?

    Just for s**t and giggles go down to your local cop shop and ask them to run a Smith & Wesson, Military & Police, with a serial number of #22046 through the NCIC, and see what happens?

    "Edit #6 Ruff snow, If I did the ncic thing and it came up spurious I don't thing there would be any "giggles", just "s**t". In this market I can easly sell this for 300-350. From what I gather it has no collector value. "

    EDIT #3, Not all Badge Boy's are dummies, if you run across one that is knowledgeable Vis a Vis S & W's. Selling a Smith with a doctored serial number, might lead to negative repercussions for you.
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  • Hawk Carse
    I believe the revolver to be older than 1948.
    A post on the S&W board says the "mushroom head" extractor rod was dropped in 1927 and the hooked hammer spur is a pre-war pattern, although they may have had some left after the war.
    The domed end hammer pin showing in the left frame is an old style.
    The grips, if original, are an older style.
    I gotta get a SCSW to pin this stuff down.

    The revolver has been refinished, the markings are a bit washed out and the hammer and trigger are blue, which S&W did not do.

    The gadget on the butt is the attaching bracket for a Hogue Monogrip. Can't imagine the regular wood grips fitting very well with it in place.
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  • kannoneer
    At first glance it has a definite 1930s look to it.
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  • Herschel
    I looked in SCSW and could not find a serial number as high as what you gave. It certainly looks to me like a pre-WWII revolver.
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  • 11b6r
    I THINK what you have may be a Model of 1905. However, the serial number is on the butt of the revolver, under that Hogue clip. Remove the clip, and look there. If that serial number has been removed or obliterated, then I think the value is $0, since it is a violation of Federal law to remove or damage a serial number, or possess a gun with one such. Serial number range for that revolver topped out at 1,000,000. You are indicating a 3 million + SN. Does not compute.
    EDIT:

    The SN would appear to indicate a .38 Military & Police Model of 1905, 3rd change. These were serially numbered 146900 thru 241703. They were made from 1909-1915.
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  • machine gun moran
    That's a long-action, and S&W changed the design to the short-action, recognizeable by the relocation of the hammer spur to mid-hammer, around 1950.

    It is legal to remove a serial number only if the number is re-established on the gun. It can be found on the inside surface of the extractor star, inside of the sideplate, and on the rear of the cylinder, among other places, so you can have someone with a set of metal stamps re-mark it on the frame exterior, and legalize it again.
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  • dcs shooters
    Your gun looks like a M&P model 1905, 4th change. They were made from 1915-1942.
    In it's condition it's worth about $200.

    EDIT, S22046 is a 1945-48 manufacture [^]

    The "S" was used on both post war "K" frames and "N" frames [;)]
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  • rufe-snow
    quote:Originally posted by dcs shooters
    Your gun looks like a M&P model 1905, 4th change. They were made from 1915-1942.
    In it's condition it's worth about $200.

    EDIT, S22046 is a 1945-48 manufacture [^]

    The "S" was used on both post war "K" frames and "N" frames [;)]


    The post World War II, M & P's with "S" prefix serial numbers had 6 digits in their serial numbers. From 811338 to 999999.
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  • nmyers
    It's likely that this post WILL run > 10 responses; all you have to do when it gets locked is open another post with the same name & add "Part II". That is the recommended way to do it.

    As for the SN, your photo of the butt of the gun is prima facie evidence that the serial number has been restamped. The numbers are in the white, which we call "burnished". Like most guns, these revolvers were serial numbered before being blued. If markings are removed, & the gun is refinished, & then the markings are restamped, we will always see burnishing within the markings because the blued surface will be pushed aside by the stamping die. It might be clearer if we had a focused photo of the SN.

    Since it is legal to restamp an SN removed during refinishing, I don't think that you would have a problem transferring the gun through a dealer. But, that may or may not be the original SN. The folks at ATF could probably tell with X-rays or magnafluxing or some other technique, but they usually only do that with crime guns. Is there an SN stamped on the cylinder face?

    I agree with rufe-snow's value estimate, but I think half of that would be for the scarce early grips.

    Neal

    EDIT: Your grips are, according to the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson, "K Frame Hand Ejector Stocks, walnut, square butt, with recessed gold medallions, used about 1910-about 1920". Someone with a nice condition gun made in that period, but missing original grips, might pay a lot of money for them. It all depends on timing, luck, & where you offer them.
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  • machine gun moran
    I bought a set of grips that were identical to those, except that they were round-butt, at an auction. They had been loosely attached to a real junker Iver Johnson break-top, I was high bidder on the gun for $10, and I sold the gun for $5 for parts (which was probably $5 more than it was worth), and the grips for $50. There always seems to be more used S&W's out there (of any vintage) than there are proper grips.
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