Pulling bullets
My old kinetic bullet puller that I looked for and found because a friend wanted to pull some old 45's
He asked how does it work? The adjustable spring loaded chuck was missing. It was always flying apart and one time when it did I couldn't find the missing parts
So I took my 45 shell holder from my Dillon press and used that. It worked well for all 200 cartridges
I asked him y so many? He said they were all mixed up and he didn't know what powder grain they were.
I ask him how did he know that
He said because some would shoot high and some would shoot low
I said maybe It's u[:)]
O no not me, it's the ammo[8D]
He asked how does it work? The adjustable spring loaded chuck was missing. It was always flying apart and one time when it did I couldn't find the missing parts
So I took my 45 shell holder from my Dillon press and used that. It worked well for all 200 cartridges
I asked him y so many? He said they were all mixed up and he didn't know what powder grain they were.
I ask him how did he know that
He said because some would shoot high and some would shoot low
I said maybe It's u[:)]
O no not me, it's the ammo[8D]
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While reading an M1 post I noted Charlie gave a recommendation on Mil bullets to seat the bullet deeper to break the seal and then pull the bullet.
Having pulled thousands of Mil bullets (the hard way)I thought this was an easy process to make removal very easy. Thanks, I'll try it next time. May reduce the marks on the bullets.
I only pass this on in a post since it may not have been picked up by everyone. I learn something every week from you guys, thanks.0 -
Part of the problem is the crimp, part is the lack of a straight section for your collet to grip.
Seating the bullet in slightly deeper, before trying to pull them often helps.
Sometimes a inerta puller works better
Worst case would be to use a set of end nippers to grip the bullet.
No, the case mouth expands to release the bullet when fired.0 -
Lots of GI ammo is also glued in with an asphalt base type tar, maybe yours are too. Seat the bullets at least 1/16 inch deeper to break that bond, then pull soon. I'm sure they have a heavy crimp to work in a tube magazine. The RCBS design puller is not the best IMHO. 0 -
Dissimilar metals have a tendency to weld themselves togeather after while. They will generate considerable over-pressures. Try using the seating die and break them loose. 0 -
I have had this same problem, only it was 30/06.
I looked really carefully and noticed the collet? was actually grabbing the top of the mouth of the case. Barely noticable.
Make sure you are only grabbing the bullet, and pop the handle of the press.
Mine came out quite easily after that.0 -
I always use the kinetic type pullers since you can salvage the bullet, case, primer and most of the powder. 0 -
And if you set up a collet puller properly, you can still salvage all components as well, without spilling the powder. [:)]
I agree, break tension with a seating die first. I've gotten a lot of milsurp ammo with either iffy primers or brittle cases that still had fine bullets and/or the powder was good and I just wanted to recharge in a fresh case (I did work up the load by dropping a few grains to start)...once I learned this trick it went fast. Until then I swore at the puller like no other!0 -
Thanks for the info.The tip on using the seating die,and forcing the bullet a little deeper in the case worked fine.I won't forget this lesson.I also have a kinetic bullet puller,I don't like all the
hammering,and sometimes the shellholder lets go,it is also an RCBS.
Thank You
Jim0
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