amt automag question
just wondering how much a piece of crap these guns are. traded for a brand new condition amt automag 22 magnum. gun is almost unfired and was very tight. when i went to shoot it , would only fire once and will not eject. you have to manually eject. basicly a single shot! anyone have this experience. by the way, im no novice.
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I have Auto Mag pistols in .22 Mag and .30 Carbine. Both work great. By eject do you mean the empty is pulled from the chamber but won't leave the gun or does it stay in the chamber?
If the shells are staying in the chamber, then it's not extracting. Have a gunsmith take a look at it, might just be a worn or broken part.0 -
ive owned quite a few auto mags. all in various calibers. not a single one of them worked without jamming! i only bought them, because i know people like them, for what reason i dont know? people will tell you that you can do this or that to them, but i tried everything. nothing worked. pure junk in my opinion. 0 -
Never owned a 22 mag. 380's & 45 upper, were the AMT's I've owned. The 22 mags are supposed to be very fussy ammo wise. Only certain kinds of ammo were recommended by the manufacturer. That and the proper stainless steel lube might also be the problem.
As a start, before throwing in the towel. Follow Lefty's advice, about extraction and ejection. The 45 long slide AMT upper I had, did the same thing. It never functioned from the factory. The extractor mortice in the slide wasn't machined correctly. Not until I went in with my needle files did it extract & eject.0 -
this one fires, just wont eject and or cycle. dosent even attempt to eject the round as if it is gas operated and the ports are clogged! its 20 plus years old and supposedly only shot twice. its new and stiff but now im out of ammo so i guess ill clean and lube the piss out of it! any suggestions? never taken one apart. kinda like a 1911? any suggestions on the ammo they like? thanks 0 -
The 22 WMR AMT Automag II's, have what is called a ported chamber. That means, gas is ported from in front of the throat, back into the chamber to help with extraction. These ports must be kept clean, from not only fouling, but hardened oil. I usually soak the chamber portion of the barrel in acetone, to dissolve this stuff, then blow it dry with shop air. These handguns are very fussy ammunituon wise, and if I am not mistaken, the factory's reccommendation was Winchester Super-X.
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There are no holes thru the barrel from the I.D. to the O.D. . If you have a clean chamber, you might be able to see some very small holes or flutes inside. There was gas directed back around the outside of the casing to help with extraction. I talked with the folks at AMT several times in the early 90's over these automag II's.
Here is a link to the operaters manual too, incase you have a problem trusting about the ammunition reccommendation.
http://stevespages.com/pdf/amt_automag-ii.pdf
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thanks for the info. maybe that the problem. gun is brand new and has been setting for 25 years. good lube and cleaning with correct ammo will hopefully work. 0 -
took apart and see no signs of anything ported. to me ported means holes of some type drilled? see nothing that can be cleaned out? 0 -
I got one at an auction and it exhibited the same issues as yours. It seems that they have extractors and ejectors. I forgot which it is but the part is small and easily falls out and gets lost when cleaning.
High Standard company has those parts and can likely diagnose the issue for you.0 -
Great little guns! Redman, when you have the barrel in your hands, outside the frame; look into the part where the bullet goes in. There are many little blind holes drilled into the sides of the chamber, radial to the centerline of the bore.
That area must be kept clean of old oil, waxy crap, and standing oil.
The extractor, which is milled into a slot in the side of the bolt, is spring operated, and may have crap in the groove it hides in.
The part that falls out during disassembly sits atop the rails of the frame, in the rear of the grip. There's a small boxy cutout for it there. I think it was the safety interface for the hammer, but I could be wrong.
It does come apart like a finicky 1911 though; you first unload it and make sure nobody's home. Pull the slide back to the notch that matches up with the "Through-pin", and while holding it there, with your other hand(s), push the pin through the hole, and pull out the pin. Then release tension on the spring by doing the 1911 thing to the barrel bushing, etc..
I always thought they were made to put together a little too hard, and disassembly was kinda tough, too.
I've shot mine in silo matches, using W-W Super X FMJs, and occasionally Federals; it's entirely possible to outshoot a Browning Silo BuckMark with one of these.0 -
redman.com1,
I found this explanation on an AMT forum:
Chamber showing "blind holes", or "ports":
Fired cases, showing impressions of those ports:
quote:The working of this "system" is just the opposite as the flutes in the chamber of the HK G3 or Sig Stg 57.
The chamberflutes in the rifles are cut all the way into the throat of the chamber to let gas escape BETWEEN the chamberwall and the case. This makes extraction easier since the case does not stick as much to the chamberwall, sort of making the case "floating" in the chamber.
On the AMT II pistols, the "dents" in the chamber have the purpose to make the case stick longer into the chamber. Sort of making the extraction a delayed blowback. On ignition, the case expands into the dents, and the force of the pressure on the slide (which is equal in all directions) then resizes the dents on the way out to the extraction, just to keep the slide/barrel combo closed a tick longer as a straight blowback.0
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