Skip to main content
Help Center Community Shop

painting my stainless barrel on my ar

Comments

12 comments

  • charliemeyer007
    Sew a flat tan/green guille sock. Make a white one for snow.
    0
  • nononsense
    Neruda 1,

    Cerakote from NIC Industries is the premier coating for firearms:

    http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/

    It is a little more involved than typical rattle can painting but will last extremely well on firearms.

    If you're looking for a DIY application then Krylon will work or some of the other brands of oven curing paints (Brownells) if you can get your rifle taken down to the barrel alone. If not, mask it off and spray it, knowing you will continue to do this with some frequency do to wear and chipping and it might not look as nice as something done by someone with experience.

    Unless you have some expertise but want to retain the overall professional look of your rifle, let an experienced professional paint it for you.

    Best.
    0
  • dcs shooters
    We've done a lot of stainless with K-G Guncote. You can get it in spray cans. The barrel needs to be bead blasted and then warmed up before the primer is put on. After the final coat is baked, it is very tough.
    0
  • 62fuelie
    I have been using Lauer's Dura-cote. It doesn't require baking. I have used it on two rifles and the only caution I would offer on it is to follow the directions to the letter. I did a .300 Whby with a Gentry muzzle brake and the stuff held up to the gasses exiting the MB ports with no problem. I used an airbrush and canned air and it worked just fine. Haven't heard much positive about their kit with its own spray bottle. Both Brownell's and Midway carry it.
    0
  • asphalt cowboy
    If you want professional results that will last have it done by a pro with proper materials.

    I was more interested in returning my rifle to original appearance so I used Krylon Ultamatte Black. So far muzzle blast has blown most of it off the muzzle.
    0
  • rwfixem
    dura-coat. I have applied this to a dozen guns 5 are packed every day still look great. as with ALL finishes prep is the key.
    0
  • rufe-snow
    If you ever intend to sell the rifle or even the barrel, don't make any permanent changes that will alter the factory appearance of the barrel.

    It's a deal breaker for alot folks willing to buy big buck items. If the factory original finish is screwed with. It gets them thinking to what else has this guy done to the rifle. And the sale will go done the toilet. I have seen this happen quite a number of times over the years.
    0
  • MrM1A1
    I just did the stainless barrel on my AR10T a couple weeks ago. I used Brownells Allumahyde II, dark parkerizing gray. It came out excellent. I have had great success with this product.

    One thing though, be sure to warm up the barrel before you spray it, it will help with adhering. Also, DO NOT Touch it for at least a week. It needs time to cure, into dicing any oils will make it splotchy with gloss. Ask me how I know.[:I]

    I have also baked Allumahyde on at 300 degrees for 2 hours, not required, but t sped up the cure time a bit.

    Good luck with whatever product you choose!
    0
  • bambambam
    You could glass bead/walnut shell the barrel.

    It will take the shine away & if it's still not good enough it will be a good surface for a painted product to adhear to.
    0
  • azpowerwagon
    Do not 'Glass'bead the metal to prep it. Use an abrasive media to create a toothed surface for the product to adhere to. Poor durability if glass beads are used.
    0
  • gunnut505
    I've had great luck using Testor's Model Paints to camo, un-Zombie, de-glare, and cool up some of my less expensive arms for years.
    The finish isn't permanent, comes right off with M-Pro-7 and a rag, stays put with just a Q-tip, and comes in as many colors as you could ever want.
    Also, no need to toss the rifle in the oven, freezer, or microwave.
    0
  • armilite
    quote:Originally posted by MrM1A1
    I just did the stainless barrel on my AR10T a couple weeks ago. I used Brownells Allumahyde II, dark parkerizing gray. It came out excellent. I have had great success with this product.

    One thing though, be sure to warm up the barrel before you spray it, it will help with adhering. Also, DO NOT Touch it for at least a week. It needs time to cure, into dicing any oils will make it splotchy with gloss. Ask me how I know.[:I]

    I have also baked Allumahyde on at 300 degrees for 2 hours, not required, but t sped up the cure time a bit.

    Good luck with whatever product you choose!



    I highly agree.[;)]
    0

Please sign in to leave a comment.

Recent Activity

Didn’t find what you’re looking for?