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Scope Mounting Question

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9 comments

  • DerBarbarian
    Hey guys since I have a couple of optic questions, this is my first rifle with a traditional scope. In regards to the base and rings, I'm looking at the rifle right now, and I see 2 screws where the mount goes, since this is my first rifle is it fairly easy to install the base/rings yourself, or does a gun smith need to do it "properly". I just don't want to run the risk of messing up my rifle, but if it's a straight forward job of just screwing it into place I'm sure I can do it, but I just wanted to check before I did anything. Do the screws need to be torqued down? Or do you just get it as snug as you can? I would really really appreciate any info you guys can pass my way!
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  • Ambrose
    Unless you have an older rifle or a military conversion, mounting a scope is pretty straight foreward. You mentioned "2 screws where the mount goes". That confuses me a little: There are usually 2 screw holes in the receiver ring and 2 in the bridge. Of course, I'm thinking of bolt action rifles--maybe you have something else?
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  • mrbruce
    First thing to do is to clean out the existing holes with a solvent to degrease them for a better hold. If you have the correct tap, it's also a good idea to run it into the holes to be sure they are OK.. Degrease the hold down screws also while your at it.
    A tiny bit of thread locker on the screw when you put them in place is a plus, but not 100% necessary, then torque them down if you have a torque wrench. If not just snug them down good and tight a little at a time front to back..
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  • tsr1965
    DerBarbarian,

    What rifle are you working with? This is very important, as I would not want to see you diminish the value of a nice Pre-64 Model 70, unexpectedly. Those would be the only model I know of that have "just wo screws", and would need to be drilled and tapped for use with most modern mounts bases.

    If this is in fact a pre-64 Model 70, perhps you might want to reconsider the modern mounts, and look for a Stith mount.

    That said, if you need the extra two holes for a modern mount, then by all means, have a professional, full service gunsmith, with a mill, do the D&T operation for you.

    For bases and rings, I would go with the Burris Signature bases and rings, that are appropriate for your model. The screws that hold the bass on to the reciever, need to be blue or red Loctited, and torqued using the PROPER bit, to 20-25 INCH-POUNDS, not ft.-lbs. Contrary to some belief, the red Loctite, will come loose, with very little heat. DO NOT use any Loctite or thread adheasive on the ring cap screws, and torque them to 15-20 INCH-POUONDS. The Burris Signature rings, are a very important item, in this set up, because with the inserts they use, it eliminates the need to have to lap, most conventional, affordable scope rings. If you are using the twist in dovetail style base and rings, NEVER use the scope/scope tube to twist them in. It will most likely ruin your scope. Use a properly sized dowel, made of wood, aluminum, brass, or for best results, use a wrench(a well made adjustable wrench will work, and the ring manufacturers make wrenches just for their rings).

    If you have any more questions, feel free to private e-mail me.

    Best
    0
  • DerBarbarian
    Hey guys, sorry for the misinformation, it may have a couple of additional screw holes which currently have screws in them. I only noticed the two when I was checking it out yesterday. The rifle is a Remington 700 XCR Tactical Long Range chambered in .308. I've already bought the base, per some recommendations from a optics based forum, The Base I got is this one Warne 1-Piece Tactical Picatinny-Style Elevated Scope Base Remington 700 Short Action

    The rings I purchased are Seekins Precision Scope 30mm Rings I linked both of them at the bottom of this post, I'm still really debating on the scope though.. I have 2 of them in mind, one is the one I linked below, and the second one is linked below it. I've been told the 6.5x-20x would be the best bang for my buck, they told me that the 8.5x-25mm limit my field of view heavily and that it would cause eye strain.. Honestly, I REALLY want that 8.5-25x I would be getting either or locally, they sell for about 400-500 less than midway.. So I'm not quite sure what to do in terms of which scope to buy.. I would really appreciate any input you guys can throw my way!

    http://www.midwayusa.com/product/772915/leupold-mark-4-extended-range-tactical-m5-rifle-scope-30mm-tube-65-20x-50mm-side-focus-1-10-mil-adjustments-first-focal-tmr-reticle-matte

    http://www.midwayusa.com/product/744228/leupold-mark-4-extended-range-tactical-m5-rifle-scope-30mm-tube-85-25x-50mm-side-focus-1-10-mil-adjustments-first-focal-tmr-reticle-matte?cm_vc=subv1243146
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  • tsr1965
    quote:Originally posted by DerBarbarian
    Hey guys, sorry for the misinformation, it may have a couple of additional screw holes which currently have screws in them. I only noticed the two when I was checking it out yesterday. The rifle is a Remington 700 XCR Tactical Long Range chambered in .308. I've already bought the base, per some recommendations from a optics based forum, The Base I got is this one Warne 1-Piece Tactical Picatinny-Style Elevated Scope Base Remington 700 Short Action

    The rings I purchased are Seekins Precision Scope 30mm Rings I linked both of them at the bottom of this post, I'm still really debating on the scope though.. I have 2 of them in mind, one is the one I linked below, and the second one is linked below it. I've been told the 6.5x-20x would be the best bang for my buck, they told me that the 8.5x-25mm limit my field of view heavily and that it would cause eye strain.. Honestly, I REALLY want that 8.5-25x I would be getting either or locally, they sell for about 400-500 less than midway.. So I'm not quite sure what to do in terms of which scope to buy.. I would really appreciate any input you guys can throw my way!

    http://www.midwayusa.com/product/772915/leupold-mark-4-extended-range-tactical-m5-rifle-scope-30mm-tube-65-20x-50mm-side-focus-1-10-mil-adjustments-first-focal-tmr-reticle-matte

    http://www.midwayusa.com/product/744228/leupold-mark-4-extended-range-tactical-m5-rifle-scope-30mm-tube-85-25x-50mm-side-focus-1-10-mil-adjustments-first-focal-tmr-reticle-matte?cm_vc=subv1243146


    If you want the most bang for your $$, this is the scope for you. It eats Leupolds MK4's for lunch, and dinner.

    http://www.midwayusa.com/product/411481/vortex-viper-pst-rifle-scope-30mm-tube-6-24x-50mm-side-focus-first-focal-plane-illuminated-ebr-1-moa-reticle-matte

    I personally would have gone with Badger 20 MOA base, and rings.

    Best
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  • wanted man
    DerBarbarian, this is all sound advice, I strongly suggest you heed it. By the tone of your other posts, I recommend you have the work done professionally,

    Best


    quote:Originally posted by tsr1965
    DerBarbarian,

    What rifle are you working with? This is very important, as I would not want to see you diminish the value of a nice Pre-64 Model 70, unexpectedly. Those would be the only model I know of that have "just wo screws", and would need to be drilled and tapped for use with most modern mounts bases.

    If this is in fact a pre-64 Model 70, perhps you might want to reconsider the modern mounts, and look for a Stith mount.

    That said, if you need the extra two holes for a modern mount, then by all means, have a professional, full service gunsmith, with a mill, do the D&T operation for you.

    For bases and rings, I would go with the Burris Signature bases and rings, that are appropriate for your model. The screws that hold the bass on to the reciever, need to be blue or red Loctited, and torqued using the PROPER bit, to 20-25 INCH-POUNDS, not ft.-lbs. Contrary to some belief, the red Loctite, will come loose, with very little heat. DO NOT use any Loctite or thread adheasive on the ring cap screws, and torque them to 15-20 INCH-POUONDS. The Burris Signature rings, are a very important item, in this set up, because with the inserts they use, it eliminates the need to have to lap, most conventional, affordable scope rings. If you are using the twist in dovetail style base and rings, NEVER use the scope/scope tube to twist them in. It will most likely ruin your scope. Use a properly sized dowel, made of wood, aluminum, brass, or for best results, use a wrench(a well made adjustable wrench will work, and the ring manufacturers make wrenches just for their rings).

    If you have any more questions, feel free to private e-mail me.

    Best
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  • idahoducker
    Since you're already familiar with midwayusa check this out. The scope mounting videos are under the gunsmithing link.

    http://www.midwayusa.com/General.mvc/Index/VideoLibrary
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  • DerBarbarian
    thanks for all the info! Also TSR, the reason I didn't go with the Badger 20 MOA base they are currently on back order, when I called midway they didn't know when they would be back in stock again.
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