Reduced Power Mainspring on S&W N Frame
I have a S&W 625. I purchased some springs from Wolff springs. I put in the reduced power mainspring and an 11 lb rebound spring.
The trigger pull is now great, but now all the rounds don't go off because the hit on the primer is not hard enough.
I am shooting double action and I need it to work in double action.
The gun is for target use only.
I am not using CCI primers...I am using Winchester.
Does the rebound spring have anything to do with how hard the hammer hits the primer? (I have other, higher weight rebound springs I can try)
The screw for the mainspring is all the way in, so I can't tighten it anymore.
Does anybody make a mainspring that is somewhere between the factory and Wolff's reduced power?
What can I do to get a harder hit on the primers?
The trigger pull is now great, but now all the rounds don't go off because the hit on the primer is not hard enough.
I am shooting double action and I need it to work in double action.
The gun is for target use only.
I am not using CCI primers...I am using Winchester.
Does the rebound spring have anything to do with how hard the hammer hits the primer? (I have other, higher weight rebound springs I can try)
The screw for the mainspring is all the way in, so I can't tighten it anymore.
Does anybody make a mainspring that is somewhere between the factory and Wolff's reduced power?
What can I do to get a harder hit on the primers?
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I got the reduced Wolff on my S&W 610 and I never had a mis-fire. Then again she does use "Moon-Clips" [:D]. So how does the "dimple" look like after a mis-fire? Is it always the same cylinder? Firing pin bent or too short? Firing pin hole clean?
Maybe a wad of leather for the spring to pinch to the frame?0 -
Had that problem with my sp 101,didn't want to put the stock springs back in so I started using federal primers,no problems then.But didn't use it as my carry piece.If you are just using it for target shooting buy a 100 federal primers and see if that helps. 0 -
No, the rebound spring does not affect the hammer fall.
I don't know of an intermediate mainspring.
Federal primers are more sensitive than other brands and are the usual thing for DA competition revolvers.0 -
What series 625 do you have? A no dash or a -5 or what. I have run into the same problems with the newer Smiths with locks. I will not work on them anymore. I did a model 21 Gunsite model for a friend, they are a total disaster inside.
I own several pre lock and some pre number N & K frame models and have never had a problem using Wolf springs.
W.D.0 -
It is a 625-8 with a lock... 0 -
The newer Smiths with the lock are a POS to get to go bang with a reduced power mainspring. I'm like CM and refuse to do them. I've been doing them for over 30years now. See if you can trade it for a older 625 [;)]
I have a Wolfe "Power Rib" spring in my 625 and it pop,s Winchester primers all the time.0 -
Might pull the firing pin out and clean the tunnel. Takes a little more juice to get that light pin to hit hard.
There is a tool, at least there was years ago, that is a piloted reamer to deepen the strain screw recess and thus apply more pressure to the mainspring. A few thou at a time til you have reliable ignition.
Also, be sure the primers are seated fully.
Good luck.0 -
quote:Originally posted by redpete
I have a S&W 625. I purchased some springs from Wolff springs. I put in the reduced power mainspring and an 11 lb rebound spring.
The trigger pull is now great, but now all the rounds don't go off because the hit on the primer is not hard enough.
I am shooting double action and I need it to work in double action.
The gun is for target use only.
I am not using CCI primers...I am using Winchester.
Does the rebound spring have anything to do with how hard the hammer hits the primer? (I have other, higher weight rebound springs I can try)
The screw for the mainspring is all the way in, so I can't tighten it anymore.
Does anybody make a mainspring that is somewhere between the factory and Wolff's reduced power?
What can I do to get a harder hit on the primers?
The rebound spring doesn't have any effect on how hard the mainspring causes the hammer to strike the primer. You may find that returning to the factory issue mainspring while keeping the 11 lb trigger return spring causes the trigger to return slowly, or not at all. Polishing the action may cure the sluggishness, or using a 12 lb return spring instead.
Two other things to fiddle with - if you're using 45 ACP cases with moon clips switching to 45 AR cases may cure the problem. A shim between the front of the strain screw and the mainspring may give a bit more "oomph" to the strike. I've used a spent large primer (anvil removed) because it fits right over the screw base and won't travel.0 -
I thought I would try the primer on the strain screw to apply more pressure to the spring, but with the round butt on the 625, there was no room to work.
I have a S&W 29-3 - a square butt pre lock .44, so I thought I would see what the difference was between the two guns.
The 29 with the square butt has a longer strain screw (by almost a tenth of an inch), so I put the longer screw in the 625. I am able to apply more pressure to the spring, so I think it will give me harder hits on the primers...now I just have to fiddle with it to find the sweet spot.
Is there any reason why this won't work?0 -
The longer strain screw should work, sort of the reverse of using the tool I mentioned above. All the PPC revolvers I built years ago were square butt with fixed firing pins, very light mainsprings and about 6.5-7.5 DA trigger pulls. I doubt you will get those weights with a floating firing pin. Just couldn't get as light a DA on the old pythons. [:)] Would have to stay toward the 7.5 range. 0 -
I have a extended firing pin around here if you need one [;)]
Email if you do.0
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