Gunsmithing question.
I have been trying to figure out how the cam and the cam castoff are installed on the large frame top-break Forehand & Wadsworth/Hopkins & Allen revolvers. I am wondering if I received the correct part. Also, there is a hole behind where the cam and castoff would be sitting. ( red arrow in photo). Is there another piece that goes in there? I have been unable to find any info as to how this goes together.
Any help would be much appreciated!
Any help would be much appreciated!
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Hello!
As a hobby, I restore many older revolvers such as the H&R, Iver Johnson, Hopkins & Allen, Forehand & Wadsworth, etc. I can usually get them to index properly, and put them in time. However, the most frustrating of all are the ones that will function perfectly in SA, but the trigger needs to be nudged forward ever so slightly to allow it to be fired in DA. Sometimes it is just a case of wiggling the hammer just a hair to hear a "click" which signals that it will function in DA. I used to think that it was a weak trigger return spring, but that wasn't/isn't the case. I am reluctant to start filing/shaving any metal off the hammer or the lifter.
Any thoughts on a fix for this problem?
Thanks!
Ron0 -
Big problem is Bolt face will have to be opened up also feed rails MAY have to be modified to allow proper feeding from the magazine. Buy NEW RIFLE Would be my first choice. But 300 H&H is just a Slight gain over the 30/06 load development on the 30/06 is more advanced then the OLD SCHOOL 300 H&H but different Strokes for different folks. 0 -
Doc,
I guess I'd like to know which rifle and extractor set up you're trying to modify. These are actually more important to the chamber switching than the chamber itself because of the extra efforts (costs) required for these modifications.
In the mean time, a re-chamber is less expensive since it lacks the cost of the new barrel. But all-in-all you still have to remove the barrel from the action in order to re-cut the chamber. Many times when using Remington M700 actions you will be better off to have the action blueprinted, in which case you can't reuse the original barrel when the action threads are cut for truing.
In just as many cases, the factory original barrel is not up to the quality of the new replacement barrels when one of the top manufacturers is chosen. Less expensive on the front end may not necessary be the best answer for quality and accuracy. The .300 H&H is an accurate cartridge and deserves to have a great barrel, in my opinion.
Best.0 -
First of all a new rifle is out. I want to customize an old rifle I just bought. The object of this exercise isn't simply possess a new rifle, it's to build a personalized one.
It's a Remington Model 30 and I have one that has been converted to 460 so I doubt the 300 H&H would be any big deal for this rifle. I want this caliber because I think it's cool, not because I want the latest and best performing cartridge. I could leave it as an '06 but as long as I am rebuilding it why not make it really special?
I know the bolt and receiver rails will require some work, what I am asking is if it's cheaper to re-chamber or replace the barrel? I would think that the H&H isn't such a high pressure round that the barrel is questionable. I'm just not sure if the labor charge for re-chambering will exceed the cost of a replacement barrel.0 -
Long as you have a competent gunsmith doing the job, using rental reamers. Wouldn't even come close to what a new barrel will set you back. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by Doc
I know the bolt and receiver rails will require some work, what I am asking is if it's cheaper to re-chamber or replace the barrel? I would think that the H&H isn't such a high pressure round that the barrel is questionable. I'm just not sure if the labor charge for re-chambering will exceed the cost of a replacement barrel.
A new barrel will still need to be chambered and fit. Possibly less cost there if you buy a rough chambered barrel. Finding a gunsmith with a set of 300 H&H reamers may be your big problem. Once you do that ask them how much it would cost to go either way. What about 308 Norma Mag?0 -
Doc,
As I stated above, it will be less expensive to re-chamber the existing barrel as opposed to using a new barrel.
My suggested parameter for making this decision is to borescope the existing barrel to determine whether or not it will be viable to re-chamber due to its condition. A barrel with little use and proper cleaning will be suitable. However, a barrel with heavier use or lesser care in cleaning might not be the candidate you would expect it to be, leaving you with the expense of the re-chamber in a lower quality barrel. The best information upfront will help you make the best decision for your course of action.
quote:The object of this exercise isn't simply possess a new rifle, it's to build a personalized one.
I could leave it as an '06 but as long as I am rebuilding it why not make it really special?
I rarely re-chamber a used barrel simply because of the usual lack of condition. It's a better decision to use a new, high quality barrel to achieve the best accuracy and longest life possible. This is true especially when the rifle needs to be 'really special' and 'personalized'.
The .300 H&H can operate at the 62,000 PSI pressure level so it is a viable choice for this rifle.
Best.0 -
So the re-chamber is cheaper assuming the barrel isn't shot out. Got it. Thanks. 0 -
you can use a p-14 (british m-1917, in .303 cal.) bolt as is in this rifle and save the cost of bolt work (bolt face is correct dia. for magnum cals.). It also has a smaller firing pin tip. 0
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