17 HMR in Magnum Research
I've posted elsewhere and a few other questions about the Magnum Research 17 HMR. I just bought a used Magnum Research 17 HMR, I suspect it's an older version as it's in a Hogue "rubberized" black stock. It has a stainless .920 diameter barrel. No blood on the stock or by the magwell, I suppose that's a good sign.
I'm aware of the problems semiautos have with the 17 HMR. I bought the rifle because the price was low (for that reason I suppose) and figuring the worst case scenario would be sending it to MR for a barrel refit to 22 WMR. I'm fine with that and MR has already sent me a return number. Still, doing the 10 day CA wait only to pick it up and ship it off for another two weeks, plus I think the 17 HMR is more accurate than the 22 WMR, if there's a way to SAFELY use the rifle in 17 HMR I'd be interested to learn it.
I shoot lefty. I've never minded a touch of powder, my old JC Higgins spits a touch and I also own a 1918 BAR - I accept that my kisser is hanging out there a bit. But I'd like to avoid split brass casings and torn case heads if at all possible. Has anyone set up a MR semi to safely use the 17 HMR and if so how?
I'm aware of the problems semiautos have with the 17 HMR. I bought the rifle because the price was low (for that reason I suppose) and figuring the worst case scenario would be sending it to MR for a barrel refit to 22 WMR. I'm fine with that and MR has already sent me a return number. Still, doing the 10 day CA wait only to pick it up and ship it off for another two weeks, plus I think the 17 HMR is more accurate than the 22 WMR, if there's a way to SAFELY use the rifle in 17 HMR I'd be interested to learn it.
I shoot lefty. I've never minded a touch of powder, my old JC Higgins spits a touch and I also own a 1918 BAR - I accept that my kisser is hanging out there a bit. But I'd like to avoid split brass casings and torn case heads if at all possible. Has anyone set up a MR semi to safely use the 17 HMR and if so how?
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I never owned one, so don't take this as gospel. We had a post just a short time ago regarding the 17 in semi-autos. He felt that the problem was barrel fouling. As long as the barrel is kept super clean, not letting fouling or residue to build up. The pressures won't become excessive, causing dangerous situations. Lets us know how it works out? 0 -
Doug,
Rufe is spot on, about keeping the barrel clean, as the 17HMR, does generate more pressure than the 22 WMR(very similar, the 17 M@ generates more than the 22LR, too). How are they set up?...They usually use a heavier bolt in the 17 caliber versions. While trying to maintain production continuity for their machining of the bolt, the weight is usually added by the means of an over sized charging handle.
Still, this is not enough to account for a moderately fouled bore. If you wish to swap your 17HMR over, there is no need to send it out. Just get the barrel chambered for 22 WMR, and install it. There is a clamp block that holds your barrel in, just like a 10-22. You might also have to get a standard charging handle, but I would try the heavier, over-sized one first.
Best
EDIT 1
quote:From what I've read, MR's 22 WMR barrels have a small port set up to relieve a bit of pressure and make their guns work safely.
That port is a takeoff from the AMT Automag II 22 WMR pistols. AMT, actually had a series of ports, that were directed back to the chamber, to help equalize pressures on both sides of the case for extraction enhancement.
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I was under the impression that the chamber is where the cartridge sits just before the case separates; if a dirty barrel is the problem, mea culpa. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by tsr1965
Doug,
Rufe is spot on, about keeping the barrel clean, as the 17HMR, does generate more pressure than the 22 WMR(very similar, the 17 M@ generates more than the 22LR, too). How are they set up?...They usually use a heavier bolt in the 17 caliber versions. While trying to maintain production continuity for their machining of the bolt, the weight is usually added by the means of an over sized charging handle.
Still, this is not enough to account for a moderately fouled bore. If you wish to swap your 17HMR over, there is no need to send it out. Just get the barrel chambered for 22 WMR, and install it. There is a clamp block that holds your barrel in, just like a 10-22. You might also have to get a standard charging handle, but I would try the heavier, over-sized one first.
Best
I've built up a couple of 10/22s and can switch out to a WMR barrel, no problem there. From what I've read, MR's 22 WMR barrels have a small port set up to relieve a bit of pressure and make their guns work safely. Tac Solutions, Shilen, Ruger & such are not similarly set up. I suppose if I'm going to make a change for safety's sake I might as well do it "by the book". The MR provided barrel would be free, good reason to get it from them. I'd like them to just ship me the barrel and I'll do the install, but they won't do that - they want to fit & test fire. Inconvenient but I understand their reasons. I presume they'd keep the HMR barrel.
Power Custom sells a tungsten bolt, suposedly this is used to go from either 22lr to MachII or 22 WMR to 17 HMR.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=23314/Product/RUGER-reg-10-22-17-RIMFIRE-HEAVY-BOLT-HANDLE
I suppose worst case scenario I could try the heavy bolt, keep the gun clean and monitor for pressure. If it works I could buy a MR 22 WMR barrel and have a two caliber gun.0
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