Cleaning Questions Part II
Hey guy's firstly I wanted to say thanks for all the advice in the previous thread. I have a couple more questions though, on the M44 I tried the hot water and dawn trick, I plugged up one end, poured it in, and let it sit for about 20 minutes, then unplugged it and ran a few patches down, HUGE difference just after the first 2-3 patches.. So I put another 5 patches down it, it was still a bit dirty, but much much better than before. I again plugged one end, put hot water in it, let it sit for 30, unplugged it and ran patches down, I ended up doing that 2 more times. The patches I'm getting out are still a bit grey but 100x better than the ones from yesterday. Long story short, with as old as this rifle is, am I ever going to be able to get perfectly clean patches out of it?? As I said before the patches coming out of it are a light shade of grey. So I'm just wondering if I'm wasting my time trying to get this perfectly clean or not, in the previous thread some folks mentioned how much crap is jammed in that barrel and it's hard to get it really clean, I'm just wondering if I'm wasting my time and effort trying to get this thing spotless. Again I really appreciate all the advice!
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70 years of impacted Russian crap [:D]. I wonder which would come out first? The barreling or the crap? Be crazy if the crap makes the rifle accurate [:D]. Filling all those pits and Russian deformities.
Now if it were me. I'd get a wad of wax, serious solvent and time. Plug the barrel and pour in the juice then wait. Change and clean once a week or there abouts.0 -
KROIL with plug bore 24 hours one time end of story.Kroil will NOT hurt bluing it may disolve some types of wood finish if left on it for a week but is great stuff.It also will loosen Rust so lets say you have a BROWN patina on metal from 100 years when this is soaked in Kroil and then scrubbed with burlap it may not look as even brown as before because the Rust Patina has for the most part been wiped off. . you could leave a p-lugged bore soaking for a month and it will not hurt finish on metal it will loosen lead carbon or anything elseand leave bare metal . if you have pits that are covered up with black burnt powder it will remove this and leave the metal .Note the inside of a barrel is NOT blued from factory. 0 -
KROIL.. So I have a quick question about that stuff. If it gets on some of the innards of the rifle, is it going to strip the bluing off of it? When I used that spray solvent I didn't notice that a little bit of it had seeped out, when I came back to clean it I noticed that it had stripped some of the bluing off. So before I go out and buy this I was just curious if this stuff will do the same thing or not? Again I really appreciate all of the input you guys have suggested! Thanks in advance! 0 -
Yo Der, mix up about a pint of 50/50 white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide and fill your plugged bore with that.
You've already removed almost all the cosmoline or packing grease; now you want to clean the bore without ruining it.
Plug the muzzle end, and using a reloaders' funnel, fill the bore till you see it approaching the chamber end.
Leave it sitting overnight, drain it out the muzzle, then run a coupla tight patches.
You will have dissolved all the Roosky crap down to the lands and grooves of your rifling.
Never tried it on a wood stock, or a blued rifle, so be precise, and try not to spill too much. It wipes right off with a paper towel.
When you're done; oil it judiciously.
If there's still crap in the barrel; it was meant to be there.0 -
Fill the barrel with household ammonia and let it sit an hour. It will dissolve all the copper. Don't get any on the wood. 0 -
Why not use gun cleaning solvents? there's no way plain water will work as well on a modern firearm.
There's probably some cosmo in there so why not brush it out with turpentine or wd40, then patch? Then hit it with some Sweet's or some Shooter's Choice. Sweet's contains plenty of ammonia, only it's in a paste which stays put.0
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